tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-67386482049425300862024-03-15T18:10:15.449-07:00GeneJockey's Elgin Watch BlogCollecting and Restoring Watches from Elgin's Last Three DecadesGeneJockeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17161884314264237342noreply@blogger.comBlogger35125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6738648204942530086.post-21599722859555795662019-12-07T13:38:00.000-08:002019-12-08T11:07:37.690-08:00In Which Your Host Captures A Unicorn....<br />
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I have written about the 607 and 618 "Bumper" automatics, which came out in about 1950. These are generally considered to be the FIRST American-made automatic wrist watches. But before them, there was the 605.</div>
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The 605 appears in the serial number list in the 1950 "Elgin Genuine Material" catalog. Three runs appear in the list:<br />
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1. J835001 - J838000 3,000 units<br />
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2. V751001 - V770000 19,000 units<br />
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3. H600001 - H612000 12,000 units<br />
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A total of 34,000 watches, starting in about 1947. But the parts list does not contain any entries for the 605, and nothing appears in the databases about the missing 34,000 watches or the 605 grade. Schlitt's Elgin database lists the 605 in the Grade Numbers list, but the entry only says<br />
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<pre style="background-color: #dddddd;">grade total runs first yr last yr class size code jewels Adj/name
----- ----- ----- -------- ------- ----- ---- ------ ------ ----------</pre>
<pre style="background-color: #dddddd;">605 34000 3 1947 1949 ? ?s ????? ?j ?</pre>
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Pocketwatchdatabase is similar.<br />
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Years ago, when I first started collecting Elgins, I THOUGHT I saw a watch with a 605 on Ebay. It was a Bumper automatic movement. My recollection is that it looked pretty much the same as the 607. I was just getting started and I was focused on watches of the late 50s and early 60s, so I let it go. Only later did I realize that it wasn't just a 607. But I wasn't sure I really saw it, because I didn't snag any pics from the listing. So, it has bothered me for 9 years.<br />
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Last year, my friend Mick Grocott acquired a big lot of unbuilt Elgin watch plates and bridges, which included a number of Train Bridges marked "Elgin 605 USA; (serial number);18 Jewels 4 Adjs"<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzSd5ugbHiM_1j9Os3rIUDSzYYIWWEv5uSjVVWb-EUg-5JXCKbEbnCduc-Nn_sZlEXkE9LJZjiwG-y7WcbNvNxL4JIq70RKJ36W6NUwkVYR-51G6iFMTlX-kger8X7LavpU4_HNNHpvHs/s1600/605+train+bridges.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="552" data-original-width="585" height="602" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzSd5ugbHiM_1j9Os3rIUDSzYYIWWEv5uSjVVWb-EUg-5JXCKbEbnCduc-Nn_sZlEXkE9LJZjiwG-y7WcbNvNxL4JIq70RKJ36W6NUwkVYR-51G6iFMTlX-kger8X7LavpU4_HNNHpvHs/s640/605+train+bridges.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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These bridges were the same shape as the train bridge in the 607 and 618, but those grades carry their grade and serial numbers on the Autowind Module. This confirmed that the 605 was a Bumper Automatic in the 607 family, as I had thought!<br />
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Last week, 9 years of searching FINALLY paid off! A watch with a 605 came up on Ebay! I set a snipe. Then I raised it. Then I raised it twice more - after all, how much is a watch you see once a decade worth? Luckily, I won the auction for far less than I was ultimately willing to pay!<br />
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So, here it is, my Unicorn, my Holy Grail - the Elgin 605 Bumper Automatic!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg61c4cav9k5ZJrPoVn72P72wcwYZNo2G6rfX7-uGJMgYQq9kmSnTgtcp4u2r7sz5GtfeOaFA6N9Wqe66naXOMOltCoJBNUu2t-mOpmGX04UAmz81dlz0jqevpTCUYB0ksNC70HQfTyKfg/s1600/IMG_2566.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1411" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg61c4cav9k5ZJrPoVn72P72wcwYZNo2G6rfX7-uGJMgYQq9kmSnTgtcp4u2r7sz5GtfeOaFA6N9Wqe66naXOMOltCoJBNUu2t-mOpmGX04UAmz81dlz0jqevpTCUYB0ksNC70HQfTyKfg/s640/IMG_2566.JPG" width="564" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr0sIPfaQoxCYQcaZJ-m2Bu6rK74YAKpTZEIDZf_d-S-TPawapmufG16X18kFDyrpt3I2cWt9usSlsHo_RRd_qFrRjbf9MbkHyjBWfJ4Figk6etH8SN24Z1EYAsToPbdugYiMU4QF7lwQ/s1600/IMG_2570.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1354" data-original-width="1600" height="540" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr0sIPfaQoxCYQcaZJ-m2Bu6rK74YAKpTZEIDZf_d-S-TPawapmufG16X18kFDyrpt3I2cWt9usSlsHo_RRd_qFrRjbf9MbkHyjBWfJ4Figk6etH8SN24Z1EYAsToPbdugYiMU4QF7lwQ/s640/IMG_2570.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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A couple observations off the bat:<br />
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First, this case, a 10k Gold Filled Wadsworth, does not match any of the cases in which the 607 or 618 were sold.<br />
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Second, there appears to be a jewel and pivot on the Barrel Bridge, which is NOT on the 607/618.<br />
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Third, the oscillating weight is different.<br />
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Okay, but what's it like on the inside? So I carefully uncased the movement and set about disassembling it - CAREFULLY! because there are no spare parts for a Unicorn.<br />
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Once the Autowind Module is removed, I noticed a number of detail differences.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDdgp4jhu8XOfHE2apAb5Ad81CY1QITNO4SZu1LCc0_sqcAgjHrEB1nuWxKzZ9C_5BfoBwwV1fy4MeKa0rs7ZrQ7AdXBVAk9vvi-ZV88_lhL4kFDwdW_I-0oPy4UYYWeun9ymJXhzynxQ/s1600/IMG_2579.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1329" data-original-width="1600" height="530" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDdgp4jhu8XOfHE2apAb5Ad81CY1QITNO4SZu1LCc0_sqcAgjHrEB1nuWxKzZ9C_5BfoBwwV1fy4MeKa0rs7ZrQ7AdXBVAk9vvi-ZV88_lhL4kFDwdW_I-0oPy4UYYWeun9ymJXhzynxQ/s640/IMG_2579.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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The Ratchet Wheel screw is countersunk, while the 607/618 uses a flat wheel with no countersink. The Crown Wheel is thinner, and the washer sits flush with the wheel, versus the thicker 607/618 Crown Wheel with its sunken washer. And that is, without question, a jewel and pivot on the Barrel Bridge!<br />
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Okay, so what's it look like underneath? What's that other wheel?<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjX8USDGc5uiuIqqRlwhj0eE0z6xUAJWZda4rJTknixrzc-SKkk8DH4b30hxus66xHBRBCnwjO89JAFmOky93y2XPUyLKdbG2zQUjqSGB0cqnjnBFwhtN_H2vpNWW76672t86bjde3vSQ/s1600/IMG_2584.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1371" data-original-width="1559" height="562" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjX8USDGc5uiuIqqRlwhj0eE0z6xUAJWZda4rJTknixrzc-SKkk8DH4b30hxus66xHBRBCnwjO89JAFmOky93y2XPUyLKdbG2zQUjqSGB0cqnjnBFwhtN_H2vpNWW76672t86bjde3vSQ/s640/IMG_2584.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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It's an off-center Center Wheel!<br />
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These are pretty common in automatic watches. It saves space and lets you use a nice big balance and barrel. Usually, the offset Center Wheel has a shorter extended arbor, and a low Cannon Pinion frictions onto it, which drives the Minute Wheel, which in turn drives a slip-on Cannon Pinion on a hollow center post which carries the minute hand. But there's no evidence of that on the dial side of the movement!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjnsHqmzND7yZ5RqblJrtq4snCj4JDnFsQBQSzGdRKFS66H12116qa-yt4TfJg6iY3732vc-R2UyT1BGXPOVsfPRwLWPaAq6ihoIRKCLYeqj5H2dnLzyh3BULIpUOjFQ_RL9P0-ZUgedc/s1600/IMG_2572.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1433" data-original-width="1600" height="572" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjnsHqmzND7yZ5RqblJrtq4snCj4JDnFsQBQSzGdRKFS66H12116qa-yt4TfJg6iY3732vc-R2UyT1BGXPOVsfPRwLWPaAq6ihoIRKCLYeqj5H2dnLzyh3BULIpUOjFQ_RL9P0-ZUgedc/s640/IMG_2572.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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No Drive Wheel here!<br />
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The answer becomes clear when you remove the concentric Fourth Wheel, a feature shared by the 607/618. The extended Fourth Wheel arbor runs through the hollow shaft of a pinion that meshes with the Barrel teeth. Call it the Center Pinion. The Center Pinion extends through the Pillar Plate and the Cannon Pinion frictions onto it.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyg_bB0lyemqHCxt7idBoXYGbnUoDPdpQUX6ys4DEZUF2cmfIG_lrxkYCqRJS8zmgcnSTlol7UaPI9YcRaJ8ToDGV_l1m-Zwl9K9PUh1oWDOA8PDGBQjIe7wiVdvfah8qEMytOYdy8BsM/s1600/IMG_2585.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1282" data-original-width="1600" height="512" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyg_bB0lyemqHCxt7idBoXYGbnUoDPdpQUX6ys4DEZUF2cmfIG_lrxkYCqRJS8zmgcnSTlol7UaPI9YcRaJ8ToDGV_l1m-Zwl9K9PUh1oWDOA8PDGBQjIe7wiVdvfah8qEMytOYdy8BsM/s640/IMG_2585.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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This is an arrangement I've never seen, offset Center Wheel with a second pinion driven by the Barrel to carry the hands, but concentric Fourth Wheel to provide directly driven center seconds (hence no jumps and skips). </div>
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The 607/618, by contrast, put the Center Wheel in the center, with the extended Fourth Wheel arbor running though the hollow Center Wheel arbor:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-eq01ycPVmRqiUMcWYE4epAWIiKogYadcL_6S4p4aidTHy5fQsyPVMNnv9sFQzR29Atsie6nYja5sRIho62gDEFgTumBEXToYH6OpdRQg56PaldAvMoxDdRb94H4QIPmfofJYAKn47dg/s1600/IMG_2593.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1226" data-original-width="1320" height="594" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-eq01ycPVmRqiUMcWYE4epAWIiKogYadcL_6S4p4aidTHy5fQsyPVMNnv9sFQzR29Atsie6nYja5sRIho62gDEFgTumBEXToYH6OpdRQg56PaldAvMoxDdRb94H4QIPmfofJYAKn47dg/s640/IMG_2593.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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You can see one of the Center Wheel spokes peeking out underneath the Fourth Wheel.</div>
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Intrigued, I also took apart a spare 607 I had (the original one from <a href="http://gjselgins.blogspot.com/2012/08/bumper.html">the earlier blog posts on the Bumper Automatics</a>), and began comparing parts. These are the Fourth Wheels, with the 605 on the left and the 607 on the right:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrjrdvyyevifNl6S1R0SUPgu31LkCW3hEw3BzpGUBCDuK6WEpG6xrTxSQEPIe0x9EjXbJJk2aKLFUoqyqjLnchWoXxMQoehsJxAHR7Rv-VohuetITtohvYABhjYg92aTnYZv0JzNHUtfs/s1600/IMG_2605.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="859" data-original-width="1144" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrjrdvyyevifNl6S1R0SUPgu31LkCW3hEw3BzpGUBCDuK6WEpG6xrTxSQEPIe0x9EjXbJJk2aKLFUoqyqjLnchWoXxMQoehsJxAHR7Rv-VohuetITtohvYABhjYg92aTnYZv0JzNHUtfs/s640/IMG_2605.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Not only is the arbor of the 607 a lot longer, but the wheel itself is larger! Just to be certain I photographed them from above.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFaO_3vhzzbuQn1Rxeuo7FlpUd_8b82SvyStnYddvS4AsrCfBE3yx8G8qa288LoZ2kB0g1Atl0YCEmi1WY_OfpOks0EmAbjDUpysgTLdyoyImXDQNi-c2AGdYzEaLKckTqNilYA3LtJvU/s1600/IMG_2606.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="914" data-original-width="1230" height="473" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFaO_3vhzzbuQn1Rxeuo7FlpUd_8b82SvyStnYddvS4AsrCfBE3yx8G8qa288LoZ2kB0g1Atl0YCEmi1WY_OfpOks0EmAbjDUpysgTLdyoyImXDQNi-c2AGdYzEaLKckTqNilYA3LtJvU/s640/IMG_2606.JPG" width="640" /></a><br />
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I thought about this, and I realized that for the Fourth Wheels to be different diameters, there must be geometry differences between the two movements that I hadn't seen. So I took pictures of the Pillar Plates and carefully lined up the centers from the Balance to the Escape Wheel, and then from the Escape Wheel to the Third Wheel on both. Then I drew an arrow from the Escape Wheel pivot to the center of the movement of the 605, and copied and pasted that arrow on the 607. Sure enough, the 605's Escape Wheel is closer to the center on the 605!</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrXJaLVLBbGb9_RKbWEgZHsJYmIE4wkKNLRW1XxG4oFoKG0XCCgUmome3zbCZIo4Fx0FEnXqzBnLq6ytVdVridarScJuzwY8yTx6gSoitO7ti1ItGdOZqouTLFA5ZYmEzn02dPUFvF08o/s1600/Geometry.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="612" data-original-width="1111" height="352" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrXJaLVLBbGb9_RKbWEgZHsJYmIE4wkKNLRW1XxG4oFoKG0XCCgUmome3zbCZIo4Fx0FEnXqzBnLq6ytVdVridarScJuzwY8yTx6gSoitO7ti1ItGdOZqouTLFA5ZYmEzn02dPUFvF08o/s640/Geometry.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">L-R: Elgin 605 Pillar Plate; 607 Pillar Plate.</td></tr>
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Notice how the angle on the 607 is more acute, and that the arrow from the 605 is to short to reach the center of the 607. </div>
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So, how did Elgin manage to stack the Center Wheel and the Fourth Wheel in the 607, when they hadn't managed in the 605? They made it THICKER! About 1/2 mm.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9K7lORihV9JSdGPXdjyvSgU37v6fYkVY4dSBTHkPco2m8ldDyYTLkabPWWCJQvVSK6uu3SiIgb_WxdXCLk5vgcJ8t5oczrGvA13GSmSEcYBnQbHYb6vTKKzqs_Y9Gxi5UtDTnxnPGb7w/s1600/IMG_2616.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="810" data-original-width="1600" height="322" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9K7lORihV9JSdGPXdjyvSgU37v6fYkVY4dSBTHkPco2m8ldDyYTLkabPWWCJQvVSK6uu3SiIgb_WxdXCLk5vgcJ8t5oczrGvA13GSmSEcYBnQbHYb6vTKKzqs_Y9Gxi5UtDTnxnPGb7w/s640/IMG_2616.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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All in all, there are surprisingly few interchangeable parts between the two grades. Maybe the Balance and Balance Cock, maybe the Pallet, but the Pallet Cock has to be just a hair different to put the Pallet pivot in the right spot.</div>
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Here's the cleaned, reassembled, and lubed movement, running again with good amplitude! I had to ever-so-carefully tweak the hairspring, which was being pushed down onto the balance arms. Once lifted just a bit, the coils lie flat, and the balance spins beautifully! </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiRUyheRdOmnQSOK_ecatE9kIc_6BvF1KVKQOWiCO91v9K6zWq8uGl7Rski65QKnxjqA51Lae7vOCRvIUkdhea0ilk6Cf1C33-Rir_ygmKtQWNFyqpd2mDfUTCfCcwSU995LlRviQArkA/s1600/IMG_2618.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1472" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiRUyheRdOmnQSOK_ecatE9kIc_6BvF1KVKQOWiCO91v9K6zWq8uGl7Rski65QKnxjqA51Lae7vOCRvIUkdhea0ilk6Cf1C33-Rir_ygmKtQWNFyqpd2mDfUTCfCcwSU995LlRviQArkA/s640/IMG_2618.JPG" width="588" /></a></div>
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The original case screw was missing, replaced with a larger screw that didn't really fit between the two buffer screws. Over time, it had stripped the case screw threads inside the buffer block. Luckily, the buffer block, screws, springs, and the case screw from the 607 is the same, so I simply scavenged the whole assembly from a spare 607.</div>
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Add a new crystal, and a strap, and my unicorn is now a wearable watch!!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic_tF7Y5ld2Z2tv-YA0YcN1qKuinBbBmtqbgMfwe4YDkGjyMGnAUxwWckKhwAKPxALVQpBvIYdJm-sd0O4OXxwxFF5xWiA-V2mR8-TMOQgNh5YzipC_2xtWjSTOWgV7cdhSWUBlI50zNk/s1600/IMG_2628.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1306" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic_tF7Y5ld2Z2tv-YA0YcN1qKuinBbBmtqbgMfwe4YDkGjyMGnAUxwWckKhwAKPxALVQpBvIYdJm-sd0O4OXxwxFF5xWiA-V2mR8-TMOQgNh5YzipC_2xtWjSTOWgV7cdhSWUBlI50zNk/s640/IMG_2628.JPG" width="522" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRfsEEqaSaB_Szc2A14ofvxNR8mTsj5vdRSE3v9tMffU_3pbYaiog_ghQ1rClsbIzUEK-tvF-7zhGvMszb3JkDFWWE8xHGoVDz0C0zGzevXLzLTADY88EBzgd0Dg9rqUFCyFvn4BiqAAU/s1600/IMG_2629.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1214" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRfsEEqaSaB_Szc2A14ofvxNR8mTsj5vdRSE3v9tMffU_3pbYaiog_ghQ1rClsbIzUEK-tvF-7zhGvMszb3JkDFWWE8xHGoVDz0C0zGzevXLzLTADY88EBzgd0Dg9rqUFCyFvn4BiqAAU/s640/IMG_2629.JPG" width="484" /></a></div>
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BTW, the case is unique to the 605. It is not one of the cases the 607/618 were sold in. While those are all two piece cases, this has separate bezel, center, and back. It's not waterproof AT ALL. It "wears" a bit smaller than the other Bumpers, at least partly because it's thinner by about 0.5mm. That doesn't sound like much, but on the wrist, it definitely is!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHnyRGs6N5NmUiaiXPR9d5y9hcGjMr7Md65Fn2OAsbixGAQLH4rW8nVwU4sdpUtPfpz4Lk1g5FQxs-otyDRy_XOJrVmqkTOuX5WKGc4WHk6RSDFtsAZC77LeZA1ahZK9fJU04QMWxOMqU/s1600/IMG_2632.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1329" data-original-width="1600" height="530" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHnyRGs6N5NmUiaiXPR9d5y9hcGjMr7Md65Fn2OAsbixGAQLH4rW8nVwU4sdpUtPfpz4Lk1g5FQxs-otyDRy_XOJrVmqkTOuX5WKGc4WHk6RSDFtsAZC77LeZA1ahZK9fJU04QMWxOMqU/s640/IMG_2632.JPG" width="640" /></a><br />
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As far as I can tell, it's the original case, since it is stamped "Cased And Timed by Elgin National Watch Co."<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy3p2XcOgQJNdTKR_ZIMaHqW4NR56nrYRqE7YReJ7bCn3rbQq7ieCg6q2cD9rCjMsi4CtVy5RCDI38z4lO5vdncQM6Rpgzmux1M-Q0trQ91pNkuCmdUpbNnocYB3evBOa6unlNF6MCFE0/s1600/IMG_2641.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1267" data-original-width="1432" height="566" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy3p2XcOgQJNdTKR_ZIMaHqW4NR56nrYRqE7YReJ7bCn3rbQq7ieCg6q2cD9rCjMsi4CtVy5RCDI38z4lO5vdncQM6Rpgzmux1M-Q0trQ91pNkuCmdUpbNnocYB3evBOa6unlNF6MCFE0/s640/IMG_2641.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
Here's the 605 with all but one of the other Bumper Automatics - the remaining one is solid 14kt gold, too rich for my blood!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcRVa4ptwKhmO1BxD69Idy-wIuZ7jZ_fvqC5_0BhT34jQ-PHfkXiemmnqZMYER0hOyt8FEmqdtKtE8CCXwV6QsMcEXoTio3Iu4QYzLkkaKjLF0zbPw0Hwpb-86hID_yqBMncLFmxuX9tY/s1600/IMG_2638.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="728" data-original-width="1600" height="290" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcRVa4ptwKhmO1BxD69Idy-wIuZ7jZ_fvqC5_0BhT34jQ-PHfkXiemmnqZMYER0hOyt8FEmqdtKtE8CCXwV6QsMcEXoTio3Iu4QYzLkkaKjLF0zbPw0Hwpb-86hID_yqBMncLFmxuX9tY/s640/IMG_2638.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">L-R: 605; 6801 with 607 mvt.; 6802 with 607 mvt.; 6803 with 618 mvt.; 6804 with 618 mvt.</td></tr>
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My best guess is that Elgin completed at least half of the first run of 3000 watches (mine would be 1537th of the run), and at least SOME of the plates for the second, larger run. The three serial blocks are 800-900,000 apart, about a year at that point of Elgin's production, with another 800,000 before the first run of 607s, starting at N433000. The first ad I've seen for the Bumper Automatics was in 1950. My conclusion is that after building 3000 605s and doing some wear-testing by Elgin employees, they decided that the 605 was not ready for sale and probably scrapped them. This example was likely kept by one of the employees testing them. Years later, like many vintage watches, children or grandchildren sell off 'Dad's Stuff', and that's how this watch came to be on Ebay. It did, after all, come from a seller in Illinois, where Elgin was located.</div>
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But we'll probably never know the whole story of the 605. At least now we know that it was built, and that it does indeed work as intended! Because it IS so rare, I don't think I'll wear it much. Even my 1870s keywinds are common by comparison! If a part breaks, I'd have to find a highly skilled watchmaker to replace it! Similarly, I won't be trying to straighten the bent 4th wheel post, or reduce the enormous 7ms beat error, or fix the 50 second/day positional error. It's enough that it runs, and runs pretty well. </div>
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What's my NEXT Unicorn? I don't know yet. I'm still basking in the glow of watching my 605 ticking away, scabby dial and all!</div>
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EDIT: One thing that I think supports this as a factory prototype is the jewel count. I've gone through the pictures several times, and I keep getting 19 jewels, despite being marked '18 Jewels'. The extra one appears to be in the Autowind Module, on the upper pivot of the Winding Sector, which transmits the motion of the oscillating weight to the Crown Wheel. In the 607/618, that pivot gets a brass bushing.</div>
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GeneJockeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17161884314264237342noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6738648204942530086.post-32413158628937939602017-11-18T18:32:00.000-08:002017-11-18T18:32:13.333-08:00OddballDuring Elgin's first decade, in addition to 18s keywound watches like the <a href="http://gjselgins.blogspot.com/2015/06/everybody-loved-raymond.html">BW Raymond</a> and others (see <a href="https://www.slideshare.net/LuisCasillas4/watches-of-the-elgin-almanac-18711876">Luis Casilla's excellent presentation</a>), Elgin also made 10s women's keywound watches, and for a while, 17s keywinders. These seem to date to 1875-1878 (see slide 92 of Casilla's presentation)<br />
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17s is an odd size. These days, it's nearly impossible to find a 17s case, and the movements just don't fit either a 16 or 18s case. I became interested in these after acquiring a handful of the 18s keywinders. They're very hard to find as cased watches, but I did manage to grab a couple bare movements on Ebay.<br />
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The dials are one-piece, with no sunken sub-dial.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWtKX-kZ94Wx0ZRZlSY03DGxhbDPtWVRjxtkVJn_eUnAJI7mnT3FZSVbcRpZQpCdEFGRF1L6aTumIL3uZMbI4HqZAYiGmvI2nLdA4wXIO6-WFZHnaR6IoG0RLM-ePn-DnS0xnTL4xhtW0/s1600/Pair+Face.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="883" data-original-width="1600" height="352" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWtKX-kZ94Wx0ZRZlSY03DGxhbDPtWVRjxtkVJn_eUnAJI7mnT3FZSVbcRpZQpCdEFGRF1L6aTumIL3uZMbI4HqZAYiGmvI2nLdA4wXIO6-WFZHnaR6IoG0RLM-ePn-DnS0xnTL4xhtW0/s640/Pair+Face.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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They're essentially full plate, with solid balances. As far as I know, all of them were 7 jewel.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVW9ydV1FjaK4JiliYrFzIk7skwkGUOhWgFyKTXj9SjDUJOEDX7hOSgFh4jpqaSu6AgrAZexIxqmUGMydg7gkVO1kEwLLSqfxaCCABNW827Z_P5YfA63eACgEaELsPNgpsxhddZ6-5mpI/s1600/Pair+of+17s.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1038" data-original-width="1600" height="414" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVW9ydV1FjaK4JiliYrFzIk7skwkGUOhWgFyKTXj9SjDUJOEDX7hOSgFh4jpqaSu6AgrAZexIxqmUGMydg7gkVO1kEwLLSqfxaCCABNW827Z_P5YfA63eACgEaELsPNgpsxhddZ6-5mpI/s640/Pair+of+17s.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The TM Avery is named for Elgin's second President. Note that the balance on the Avery is larger than the Leader, but they're otherwise largely identical. The Leader's balance staff is broken, so I took the Avery apart for cleaning and hoping to get it running. </div>
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No such luck. This old boy will never run again. The lower balance pivot is bent all to hell, and I can't find any replacement staff for these. If I were a better watchmaker, and had a lathe, I might cut a new staff. But I'm not!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu_339Qbjg-GI9Qo9UB9DFmJLhKwF3Ym71Ug17aLaUX0OOFSpXMbBBexbiocA7IQC62dwrJfRZrVd7R8ibhYEWJDS4w1Hj6I3TM1rbIECh8olMvcLXD7-vjBF-Lqz-V7hc2Ju0spuN0Hk/s1600/Balance+Pivots.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1333" data-original-width="1363" height="312" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu_339Qbjg-GI9Qo9UB9DFmJLhKwF3Ym71Ug17aLaUX0OOFSpXMbBBexbiocA7IQC62dwrJfRZrVd7R8ibhYEWJDS4w1Hj6I3TM1rbIECh8olMvcLXD7-vjBF-Lqz-V7hc2Ju0spuN0Hk/s320/Balance+Pivots.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Since the watch was dirty from neglect, I decided to clean it and then document the rebuild.</div>
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Like the 18s keywinders, the Avery has the serial number stamped on numerous parts, including the barrel floor and cap.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhwTqO9hJ3KP_9qgpeGIC7vTg2ACNrAfYJbU4txNyh9APp6Q2Jr8yLUmN7Y48vIFSpuiGw3ik_XeY4S1sfDUqCk4_OixyRJSo9SMLyqXPO1Z2Mf-946p6yn9_nw70liUpqXOWDOxJgGrg/s1600/Numbered+Parts.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1082" data-original-width="1600" height="432" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhwTqO9hJ3KP_9qgpeGIC7vTg2ACNrAfYJbU4txNyh9APp6Q2Jr8yLUmN7Y48vIFSpuiGw3ik_XeY4S1sfDUqCk4_OixyRJSo9SMLyqXPO1Z2Mf-946p6yn9_nw70liUpqXOWDOxJgGrg/s640/Numbered+Parts.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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First things first - reinstalling the balance jewels.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk42YwdipPCkeiwNo0CVCEHHrkrBRrhyphenhyphenHjDHTf-X4h2gQkG6ptWWYH6FOxpePORUiwIQbuBfcR7VTFaht9ULnoEq58J8eO8Zre5jt_5s85IU1BGmq7o-3xgUudIMiit7pz-3r3AteFyo4/s1600/Jewels+Installed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk42YwdipPCkeiwNo0CVCEHHrkrBRrhyphenhyphenHjDHTf-X4h2gQkG6ptWWYH6FOxpePORUiwIQbuBfcR7VTFaht9ULnoEq58J8eO8Zre5jt_5s85IU1BGmq7o-3xgUudIMiit7pz-3r3AteFyo4/s320/Jewels+Installed.jpg" width="291" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKXAuIfSWEbLwBzNmujtYXH5Z6bgDy9g-H5_aGt5dI-aYi3LyVIb9-VZ047NNLS2qGxHaVeBYdGBjwvXiPXTMYaMY-9roxsSaaOmFMf7_F5jtT7wYHlVikxY1mVBBlkDNUii0q2BwrRbg/s1600/Jewels.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1582" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKXAuIfSWEbLwBzNmujtYXH5Z6bgDy9g-H5_aGt5dI-aYi3LyVIb9-VZ047NNLS2qGxHaVeBYdGBjwvXiPXTMYaMY-9roxsSaaOmFMf7_F5jtT7wYHlVikxY1mVBBlkDNUii0q2BwrRbg/s320/Jewels.jpg" width="316" /></a></div>
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Next, installing the balance in the cock. If you've been paying attention, you may have noticed that every Elgin I've shown made before 1955 has a triangular stud, which goes into the stud hole in the balance cock and is held in place by the stud screw. On these cheapies, Elgin went with a pressed-in stud (red arrow), requiring you to unpin and re-pin the hairspring to the stud each time it was serviced. To ensure you repinned the hairspring at the same point, there's a 'witness mark', by the green arrow. Note also the gouges and crow-pecks in the foot of the balance cock to raise it for more endshake (blue arrow)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTzMnJgpQtJ3S6_HBYQTINJCp90SXD0EMr8QwLuwxv-1IcUAbSBCvGDz19g-0y9exloP-TpLNaL9sfaaArsPKBD19qBjEyGAob6y1Wtq3eWxSNAjrle_Zjdiz4-6z0n_EqM2-dlE6_rP4/s1600/Balance+ready+to+install+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1237" data-original-width="1552" height="510" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTzMnJgpQtJ3S6_HBYQTINJCp90SXD0EMr8QwLuwxv-1IcUAbSBCvGDz19g-0y9exloP-TpLNaL9sfaaArsPKBD19qBjEyGAob6y1Wtq3eWxSNAjrle_Zjdiz4-6z0n_EqM2-dlE6_rP4/s640/Balance+ready+to+install+2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The balance is put in place in the jewel, with the hairspring in the regulator, then you carefully feed the hairspring through the hole in the stud. Next, you feed it through till it reaches the witness mark, then insert the pin from the coil side.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixB125fvw1cs-x8_6M_TFE31hGFgGBIaUqoRwb_E03G6N9yw_d_H-TIIAZ0woVxTwJ8ynSB4Igqvx-JSIInzRbfhMT0vCEPL0VHZKRk7WBF0eCuXz_dBTM0-S7ZF8erb2vhQC7_iDicAo/s1600/Balance+Almost+Done.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1363" data-original-width="1318" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixB125fvw1cs-x8_6M_TFE31hGFgGBIaUqoRwb_E03G6N9yw_d_H-TIIAZ0woVxTwJ8ynSB4Igqvx-JSIInzRbfhMT0vCEPL0VHZKRk7WBF0eCuXz_dBTM0-S7ZF8erb2vhQC7_iDicAo/s320/Balance+Almost+Done.jpg" width="309" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxfiZN1OCH90IT8x-vLZj0RdZLI9SeqiCE0S79QR57DIYmQFwRm2-Act-CqW4k9S7Ual6yheS8zEqTnqihwJjCmQL1cCZv7UJgE_D7gg3Os3YkQeFUsbRPFOY2mIlPsL5QYQcy6I9bWjQ/s1600/Balance+installed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1211" data-original-width="1103" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxfiZN1OCH90IT8x-vLZj0RdZLI9SeqiCE0S79QR57DIYmQFwRm2-Act-CqW4k9S7Ual6yheS8zEqTnqihwJjCmQL1cCZv7UJgE_D7gg3Os3YkQeFUsbRPFOY2mIlPsL5QYQcy6I9bWjQ/s320/Balance+installed.jpg" width="291" /></a><br />
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Next, the ratchet wheel, click, and click spring are installed in the barrel bridge.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoi5Abpq6R8iRcDw0lO2MRLjNzLyh1AgK1K837Dc1sPhFgkx0bev1jnQAC_84Ew0D28EzaUB7zTC41yKwTjXlhriWf_FWq9_db-6EsQDbVlbx_qkEB5eWez06VCdAcOt13Ck_tjXgXeSQ/s1600/Barrel+Bridge.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1573" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoi5Abpq6R8iRcDw0lO2MRLjNzLyh1AgK1K837Dc1sPhFgkx0bev1jnQAC_84Ew0D28EzaUB7zTC41yKwTjXlhriWf_FWq9_db-6EsQDbVlbx_qkEB5eWez06VCdAcOt13Ck_tjXgXeSQ/s320/Barrel+Bridge.jpg" width="314" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuVvxEXgaMzFqDEkuJOVvLZEDQvoglB7H9ObFZeZ5BbDEfSraFewHBPk_pGuTSdRYFMhVrDCKZUdysuoZICaUnxjG41hEdeAPkmxCnZmF2H1IEHtWFwn18JF7APNJFmKQNaUNidUz_MYA/s1600/BB+ready.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1501" data-original-width="1465" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuVvxEXgaMzFqDEkuJOVvLZEDQvoglB7H9ObFZeZ5BbDEfSraFewHBPk_pGuTSdRYFMhVrDCKZUdysuoZICaUnxjG41hEdeAPkmxCnZmF2H1IEHtWFwn18JF7APNJFmKQNaUNidUz_MYA/s320/BB+ready.jpg" width="312" /></a><br />
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With those two tasks done, we're ready to put the whole thing back together!<br />
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Notice that there are only 3 pillars, versus the usual 4. More economizing.<br />
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First we install the train. Unlike most full plate watches, the barrel is not removable once the plates are together. The balance bridge just holds the click. So, we have to put the whole train in before installing the upper plate. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGdVXpJ1mP_FP9nB-auP9ySgzrSfQAp0wKxNUSkJmAH4SWDLjXZXMxDZ43BeZQnTwnjMJtarm8tNvG2vEYVxMqodXd_ZDnscj2tPMEflrEFowYBMMIBqgKz3aHuJ1VOjO1rJLTkjCaUUM/s1600/Barrel+in.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="319" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGdVXpJ1mP_FP9nB-auP9ySgzrSfQAp0wKxNUSkJmAH4SWDLjXZXMxDZ43BeZQnTwnjMJtarm8tNvG2vEYVxMqodXd_ZDnscj2tPMEflrEFowYBMMIBqgKz3aHuJ1VOjO1rJLTkjCaUUM/s320/Barrel+in.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Next the upper plate is installed. Make sure all SIX pivots are in place before adding the first screw. And yeah, you can really only add one screw at this point...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijFYSE_VST17G4VTOIauRu8bzFQ0zcAgB9uX0_FLHvsbxyWfR6KQdu2oExx30_3qhZMWYhLmNRwJnjWYM9gtcck3J4Jyzv-Oh2ylbNaCZDBCBmjZjC_iBiTip5T3YLwUaf8Gu7jiC45pI/s1600/First+Screw.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1503" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijFYSE_VST17G4VTOIauRu8bzFQ0zcAgB9uX0_FLHvsbxyWfR6KQdu2oExx30_3qhZMWYhLmNRwJnjWYM9gtcck3J4Jyzv-Oh2ylbNaCZDBCBmjZjC_iBiTip5T3YLwUaf8Gu7jiC45pI/s320/First+Screw.jpg" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg798090oy2EDpPaaNyEOc8VxyElewmrTSD9U2zSrh8f9havxkrDluz8J-CpBC-0vcZGHqT83yOtix9v1L36MhVbQvvRyGUVItKCYwxVQb9rSE50djGep3Z0FazouD3GBI0bRwM9C5RpGs/s1600/Plates+together.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1518" data-original-width="1600" height="303" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg798090oy2EDpPaaNyEOc8VxyElewmrTSD9U2zSrh8f9havxkrDluz8J-CpBC-0vcZGHqT83yOtix9v1L36MhVbQvvRyGUVItKCYwxVQb9rSE50djGep3Z0FazouD3GBI0bRwM9C5RpGs/s320/Plates+together.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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As always,check all the pivots are in place before tightening down the screw.<br />
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Next, the barrel bridge is installed. This means putting in the second pillar screw. The smaller barrel bridge screw just threads into the upper plate.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHNTUSxMvY-tYT1R9ZdR34Df22wSgEuIxxa0nc9EjuoHxPs2TjxOJ6agItbDbYs4l6tjVvQmZScIn7orWJRHjJ3LvwQ3qrE1EbNqE7XmvphY6mCdjHhi2LfibvwEC_VdyDpVKQZOHaIdo/s1600/Second+Screw.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1434" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHNTUSxMvY-tYT1R9ZdR34Df22wSgEuIxxa0nc9EjuoHxPs2TjxOJ6agItbDbYs4l6tjVvQmZScIn7orWJRHjJ3LvwQ3qrE1EbNqE7XmvphY6mCdjHhi2LfibvwEC_VdyDpVKQZOHaIdo/s400/Second+Screw.jpg" width="357" /></a></div>
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The hole next to the barrel arbor exposes the click. You let down power with a key on the barrel arbor, and insert something pointy in to push the click out of the teeth. If there's any actual power on the mainspring, of course, you hold onto the key!!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgssk2R7JBhwNIZSjXcS0sXYBbCZkLX23G62glEjTXTeJw0EzZFB56xIJJLQdcUwV26oSwA2kttaST3m2uBF-xi7A9ZEoU3T_Xl80C2LMAcdzEgJ7ZqkAJl_L3fULGK9DibAiyg3mwM1TI/s1600/Click.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1580" data-original-width="1600" height="395" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgssk2R7JBhwNIZSjXcS0sXYBbCZkLX23G62glEjTXTeJw0EzZFB56xIJJLQdcUwV26oSwA2kttaST3m2uBF-xi7A9ZEoU3T_Xl80C2LMAcdzEgJ7ZqkAJl_L3fULGK9DibAiyg3mwM1TI/s400/Click.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I wound it up a few clicks, and sure enough, the pallet flicked to the opposite bank with a gentle nudge, in either direction. Since the balance staff is irretrievably bent, AND there are no cases to fit it, this breaks my heart!</div>
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Next we installed the balance, making sure to rotate the jewel pin into the pallet fork. This allows you to add the 3rd pillar screw, in the foot of the balance cock.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijDGiVzlAU2Hytc5d6MbcXSpo3O_NGyI3gdTdilWjNUNx9tXoTfKSZgpTbPcy-58eFGMT-qIvK2jSZAsS4F0tVo4zoc5BCEKI-52r4xt43aWg-LQEOitA5lVBLrqlQDTgOzTJJthvN6lU/s1600/Complete.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1589" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijDGiVzlAU2Hytc5d6MbcXSpo3O_NGyI3gdTdilWjNUNx9tXoTfKSZgpTbPcy-58eFGMT-qIvK2jSZAsS4F0tVo4zoc5BCEKI-52r4xt43aWg-LQEOitA5lVBLrqlQDTgOzTJJthvN6lU/s400/Complete.jpg" width="396" /></a></div>
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Now it's time for the dial side. Key set watches are usually pretty simple - cannon pinion, minute wheel, hour wheel, and that's it. No setting bridges, no clutch, no clutch lever, no setting lever.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb6rtU9pMXK1w5mcgRI7KRt6f60U61yjYHlOX8nbxARSlpecq9wn-KAuYGXGP3cl7KR2wIJN75EPjveDjVZhx16Q_UV5ulwqaxiQyMStzZW2tSQ4tdBBvyLQs3-W-QnKQje54JAQXdYVY/s1600/Cannon+Pinion.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1465" data-original-width="1600" height="293" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb6rtU9pMXK1w5mcgRI7KRt6f60U61yjYHlOX8nbxARSlpecq9wn-KAuYGXGP3cl7KR2wIJN75EPjveDjVZhx16Q_UV5ulwqaxiQyMStzZW2tSQ4tdBBvyLQs3-W-QnKQje54JAQXdYVY/s320/Cannon+Pinion.jpg" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHmBO_rw6HVJsmYwQL2QMpnMsaO7y16b5L6dGnn_naLUMdrjfo_dl68_5FdKmIWwhXO2wanqDr6S_2QrHJSk-ADXJqan7bpJE7o_Bj56ZPsxYYJj47JImxfRBBGRCyAzbjIgyB4sKyfSg/s1600/Minute+wheel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1397" data-original-width="1600" height="279" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHmBO_rw6HVJsmYwQL2QMpnMsaO7y16b5L6dGnn_naLUMdrjfo_dl68_5FdKmIWwhXO2wanqDr6S_2QrHJSk-ADXJqan7bpJE7o_Bj56ZPsxYYJj47JImxfRBBGRCyAzbjIgyB4sKyfSg/s320/Minute+wheel.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV7AmNbB1meRYxw8zmjlfAI2MAqipKv4cBL6YYZWSWq7hWu7rxN_qLHpV4KoNOtsYn-EC3IMDScJ4UODZtXeY83atpetxVGq12GXMxzv5r1g0srCY9L6OW2ym6yYfQqM0WEMnlTR__Mpo/s1600/Hour+Wheel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1499" data-original-width="1600" height="373" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV7AmNbB1meRYxw8zmjlfAI2MAqipKv4cBL6YYZWSWq7hWu7rxN_qLHpV4KoNOtsYn-EC3IMDScJ4UODZtXeY83atpetxVGq12GXMxzv5r1g0srCY9L6OW2ym6yYfQqM0WEMnlTR__Mpo/s400/Hour+Wheel.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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And that's it! Now for the dial. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii848lkMqowOBxn9taTnvLSWYyCMiYpeYpGvoV2cOf3E153cme_7t-KZ7v4HtDQAaa3BADW0me-XX5jx3ontw9Mp3hZyXzZLLyIC1ixD-wd7bfmQKymqC9TdH3TF4FGFDfZPfJG2qVsNY/s1600/Dial+On.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1456" data-original-width="1600" height="363" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii848lkMqowOBxn9taTnvLSWYyCMiYpeYpGvoV2cOf3E153cme_7t-KZ7v4HtDQAaa3BADW0me-XX5jx3ontw9Mp3hZyXzZLLyIC1ixD-wd7bfmQKymqC9TdH3TF4FGFDfZPfJG2qVsNY/s400/Dial+On.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The dial is held in place not with dial foot screws, but rather with tapered brass pins that fit through holes in the dial feet which are drilled so that the pins pull the dial up snugly.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLpqIaHC3m2pF_WiFxoRr1MS2WWwSuXIjo534QpUjoSSmkIJGxLtxMV7axD8Vkp-2K-Dy7XvVRHenwiZZis0_MkIRMvMN9sHBgE1Tp92N7_9RzqHDKr9cW646IZMlO_LLT8gSccwJsSKw/s1600/Dial+Pin.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1261" data-original-width="1286" height="391" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLpqIaHC3m2pF_WiFxoRr1MS2WWwSuXIjo534QpUjoSSmkIJGxLtxMV7axD8Vkp-2K-Dy7XvVRHenwiZZis0_MkIRMvMN9sHBgE1Tp92N7_9RzqHDKr9cW646IZMlO_LLT8gSccwJsSKw/s400/Dial+Pin.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The hands go on like all hands, with the following caveat - you need to determine where the minute hand is, relative to the corners of the key square on top of the cannon pinion. In this case, the corner lines up exactly. Unfortunately, I had set the hour hand off just a little. If this were to be a working watch, I'd correct it.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQj8Nb5kKnQfG0ckVajEVhZltbq2Gc8p-DA9_IK7N_RTczDh0AkEI9Mk8D2xZK31ZeiDcxAIWsmFhp3SbQZLAkvuGEkf1FCDa7RV2vqVJ81NnQmNFxdrJeGTo2sNnVkRzlgYWAbtkazic/s1600/Completely+Complete.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1471" data-original-width="1435" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQj8Nb5kKnQfG0ckVajEVhZltbq2Gc8p-DA9_IK7N_RTczDh0AkEI9Mk8D2xZK31ZeiDcxAIWsmFhp3SbQZLAkvuGEkf1FCDa7RV2vqVJ81NnQmNFxdrJeGTo2sNnVkRzlgYWAbtkazic/s640/Completely+Complete.jpg" width="624" /></a></div>
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So, there you go! An oddball, and an orphan, 140 years old! Someday, I hope to find one cased, but for now, I'll keep this one.GeneJockeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17161884314264237342noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6738648204942530086.post-91748917152687924272017-04-09T14:21:00.000-07:002017-04-09T14:21:27.512-07:00Timemaster!<br />
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Recently, I've returned to my original interest - Railroad Pocket Watches!</div>
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This time, though, I'm sticking with my primary interest - Elgins from post-1935. By the late 1930s, Elgin had dropped all the 'Named' movement grades, including the Father Time and Veritas high-grade, railroad-quality movements. They continued to use the B.W. Raymond, once again as the highest grade of 16 sized Elgin pocket watch movements.</div>
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By 1942, the B.W. Raymond name applied to only two grades, the 21j 478, which had been in production since 1922 - quite a long time for Elgin! In 1937, Elgin introduced the last of their 23j pocket watch movements, the 540, which they called the Timemaster.</div>
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Here's the Transportation watches page from the 1942 catalog. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTT-I37m05MUBZMgC40rO_7mk9YRCzVa0tafHJnq8Df-aLxq_RMTGlzBEyQimNB7TV12IfBtHW-rmnp-NP7UUmQUqZy4GlXGdh-nzdKdfIml0gORcJUpC5rqNxcgmVkrbIDG7IWcPInxI/s1600/Page+15+16.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTT-I37m05MUBZMgC40rO_7mk9YRCzVa0tafHJnq8Df-aLxq_RMTGlzBEyQimNB7TV12IfBtHW-rmnp-NP7UUmQUqZy4GlXGdh-nzdKdfIml0gORcJUpC5rqNxcgmVkrbIDG7IWcPInxI/s640/Page+15+16.jpg" width="620" /></a></div>
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Here's the extracted part, about the Timemaster.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8JiEwEiayOu9Bjc7nBqJQ5rdujBIoxHmLHxH1mS-D2t8tKK5ZXJ76sIpPhwgtTet4FayCckqCw6nmFofGYnd-sY2QvgBP2YArLjswYiEXuQZjChCwxnq1x00CRbmQU_mR5mn_SgCZ-i0/s1600/Timemaster+Mvt..jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbwgQ-UDVXBhEsd_JttbFZwFvm_5hXLd5k8SWza2_wGWn-L710_lt8IBwLs47Ad2Rbj2zB2N47ZpEpyQQEcC1xX9OatI3R2tobQUt3bGDQOo4pungXa_7CB9KcxDQ5YRvI_buH55-7RwU/s1600/3053.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbwgQ-UDVXBhEsd_JttbFZwFvm_5hXLd5k8SWza2_wGWn-L710_lt8IBwLs47Ad2Rbj2zB2N47ZpEpyQQEcC1xX9OatI3R2tobQUt3bGDQOo4pungXa_7CB9KcxDQ5YRvI_buH55-7RwU/s400/3053.jpg" width="352" /></a><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8JiEwEiayOu9Bjc7nBqJQ5rdujBIoxHmLHxH1mS-D2t8tKK5ZXJ76sIpPhwgtTet4FayCckqCw6nmFofGYnd-sY2QvgBP2YArLjswYiEXuQZjChCwxnq1x00CRbmQU_mR5mn_SgCZ-i0/s400/Timemaster+Mvt..jpg" width="292" /></div>
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I've had my eye out for a 540 for some time, and recently, I finally snagged one! There were only 3 pictures in the listing, and they weren't very good. I took a chance, and ended up getting it for considerably less than I was willing to pay! </div>
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Here it is! And in the cool, 3053 case!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8UD8Px3CTNmV9X9pp5a7_kg1Bjgt2nxERHF2h58W5tethn5pM6k8iqG6tD22VqiZYv9HxXP2ctUJy0PwX00QV-GKm9Pte_iOoJfYlPNQ1YyD7yQ5Jhh9mU4G0-AMyw8_RsDbxtTDIfgg/s1600/3053A.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8UD8Px3CTNmV9X9pp5a7_kg1Bjgt2nxERHF2h58W5tethn5pM6k8iqG6tD22VqiZYv9HxXP2ctUJy0PwX00QV-GKm9Pte_iOoJfYlPNQ1YyD7yQ5Jhh9mU4G0-AMyw8_RsDbxtTDIfgg/s640/3053A.jpg" width="572" /></a></div>
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I took pictures of the movement of my collection of Elgin's last 4 16s B.W. Raymond commercial grades, with the balance stopped, so you can note the differences.</div>
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Let's start with the 478. This particular one is from ~1943, and has the 'Gold-Flashed' or gilt finish. Apparently during WWII, Nickel was in short supply, and Elgin produced a number of movements in gild finish. Most of these were made for the military - the 580, a 7j 8/0 sized wristwatch movement; the 582, a 16s Elgin Timer movement (see <a href="http://gjselgins.blogspot.com/2013/09/and-now-for-something-completely.html">And Now For Something Completely Different</a>), and the 581, a 22j, 16s version of the 478 with hacking and center seconds.</div>
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The movement has screwed-down gold jewel settings and gold center wheel (which clash slightly with the gilt of the plates, honestly!). The hairspring is white alloy, presumably Elginium Y, a change from the blued steel of pre-1942 478s, but the balance itself is still a cut, bimetallic compensating type with the cut in the usual place next to the balance arms.</div>
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Next, the 540 'Timemaster'. Same screwed-down gold jewel settings and gold center wheel, but note also the jewel in the center of the ratchet wheel. This is Elgin's jeweled Motor Barrel. I'll discuss this more when I do the teardown, in a future post, but suffice to say that the Motor Barrel was considered a higher grade feature.</div>
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The hairspring, like the one in the 478, is white alloy, Elginium Y. The balance is bimetallic, but instead of steel on the inside and brass on the outside like the 478, it's made of Invar alloy and brass. Invar has a different coefficient of expansion, which allows for the cuts in the balance to be more in the middle of the arms, about 2/3 of the way around.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfeFZNwI5xTgbu4QE5iScOxc_TrGPYRHtUcy8BabB3XlXO9MwgC1M3QhmMl-WwWglTBwYZpixc03p8pp0_SZN1s9go041pRu3z2t47QAgd4fiAtsMRgkr54q6p_ZV_fIQL4w1DkQiKBl0/s1600/WIN_20170409_12_23_47_Pro.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="596" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfeFZNwI5xTgbu4QE5iScOxc_TrGPYRHtUcy8BabB3XlXO9MwgC1M3QhmMl-WwWglTBwYZpixc03p8pp0_SZN1s9go041pRu3z2t47QAgd4fiAtsMRgkr54q6p_ZV_fIQL4w1DkQiKBl0/s640/WIN_20170409_12_23_47_Pro.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Next, the 590. The 590 shares almost all parts with the 478, except the balance and hairspring. Hamilton had introduced the Elinvar hairspring in 1931. This alloy did not change elasticity within the normal range of temperature, so there was no need for a bimetallic compensating balance. Elgin had introduced a similar alloy, Elginium, in 1938, and quickly adopted its use in all their movements, except the 16s pocket watch grades. By 1945, Hamilton had introduced two new Railroad grades, the 992B and 950B, both much more modern than the 478. Apparently, Elgin felt the need to introduce a railroad grade to compete, so they fitted an Elginium hairspring and monometallic balance in the 478, and rechristened it the 590. This was produced for 2 years, 1945 and 1946.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyKn_YK8SWOYLaIRjV129C2XjHb0WJNCrinP_9eolHXZSkHH0JMgwyz-EOq8wxlzeH1wvXcqP4auJCSy-O0_y7WxJ9bfPhYxGItZ1baLgMquYHTsQtilk7O1bkCydv2IZ9I4O0NJ1DXsA/s1600/WIN_20170409_12_25_47_Pro.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="620" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyKn_YK8SWOYLaIRjV129C2XjHb0WJNCrinP_9eolHXZSkHH0JMgwyz-EOq8wxlzeH1wvXcqP4auJCSy-O0_y7WxJ9bfPhYxGItZ1baLgMquYHTsQtilk7O1bkCydv2IZ9I4O0NJ1DXsA/s640/WIN_20170409_12_25_47_Pro.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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In 1946, Elgin rolled out a completely reengineered line of 16s movements, the 570 series. This is the highest grade of these, the 571, the last of the B.W.Raymond pocket watch grades. These used friction-set jewels instead of the screwed-down, bezel-set ones used in BW Raymonds since 1867. Cap jewel settings also used friction-set jewels, and screwed down from underneath, so that instead of polished screw <i>heads</i>, they had to polish the tips. White alloy 'Elginite' hairspring, monometallic balance. Very different keyless works, so that the stem was now part of the movement, not the case (see <a href="http://gjselgins.blogspot.com/2016/03/elgins-postwar-16-size-pocket-watches.html">Elgin's Postwar 16 Size Pocket Watches</a>)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXDkkxor8IeRnqjRP5hD7WfzkXF6zP4FsZZNmfXrHMJtaw3x3q37rtFfcGsM3RChoBfYCVqgqSN0QDbTOXIpLCSt436YSD_rcn4_tsDoH3zzDcDgZIwDwi3bUoa4ZYDW-Uu85ofGwY0D0/s1600/WIN_20170409_12_26_10_Pro.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXDkkxor8IeRnqjRP5hD7WfzkXF6zP4FsZZNmfXrHMJtaw3x3q37rtFfcGsM3RChoBfYCVqgqSN0QDbTOXIpLCSt436YSD_rcn4_tsDoH3zzDcDgZIwDwi3bUoa4ZYDW-Uu85ofGwY0D0/s640/WIN_20170409_12_26_10_Pro.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Top row: 23j 540 Timemaster in 3053 case; 21j 478 in 3051 case</div>
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Bottom row: 21j 590 with Canadian RR dial in 3051 case; 21j 571 in 3055 case</div>
<br />GeneJockeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17161884314264237342noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6738648204942530086.post-89647965806372687782016-03-20T18:35:00.000-07:002016-03-21T08:04:08.339-07:00Elgin's Postwar 16 Size Pocket WatchesBetween 1909 and 1945, Elgin's 16s watch movements came in two basic forms, whether Hunter or Open Face. <br />
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On the left, you see the format used for watches to 17j (mostly - we are talking about Elgin, after all!). The Center Wheel jewel is on the Barrel Bridge, while the 3rd, 4th, and Escape Wheel jewels are on the Train Bridge. This format was introduced in 1896.<br />
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On the right is the other format, with the Center and 3rd Wheel jewels on the Barrel Bridge, with the 4th and Escape Wheel pivots on the Train Bridge. This format was introduced in 1909, and was used for watches from 17j to 23j.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE3OHsy5dn58jf0zmU-nAkjNV1qg_7nXJ9hjgpm-_VuRQxLMalDeQ6hn63zSbfZfUHhSl_eTFHQnNglcegKOctA-Lf-WK4tiCUB1VWj5ImDWzFSnio_v_AWWwcrL87hdU0sfiSFEDFqBE/s1600/WIN_20160320_16_53_58_Pro.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="340" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE3OHsy5dn58jf0zmU-nAkjNV1qg_7nXJ9hjgpm-_VuRQxLMalDeQ6hn63zSbfZfUHhSl_eTFHQnNglcegKOctA-Lf-WK4tiCUB1VWj5ImDWzFSnio_v_AWWwcrL87hdU0sfiSFEDFqBE/s640/WIN_20160320_16_53_58_Pro.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Both types used set jewels in screw-down settings, and for both, the crown and stem were part of the CASE. The square shank of the case's stem entered a square hole in the Winding Sleeve.<br />
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These two formats continued to be used until 1945, including for military watches. By this time, Hamilton had introduced its 992b and 950b watches, with monometallic balances and Elinvar Extra hairsprings, negating the need for a cut, bimetallic balance to compensate for the change in eleasticity of the steel hairspring over the range of temperatures. Elgin had been using monometallic balances with hairsprings of its own alloy, called "Elginium". These first appeared in 536 series 15/0s wristwatches in 1938, and were used in the 554 series of 8/0s movements, as well as the 542 series 10s pocket watches.<br />
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It was not until 1944, however, that Elgin introduced alloy hairsprings and monometallic balances in their 16s BW Raymond models, with the model 590, seen above. The 590 was nearly identical to the earlier 478 BW Raymond which had been Elgin's main Railroad Watch for two decades. The 590 was apparently introduced because the new 571 series movements were not yet ready, and was sold in 1944 and 1945 only.<br />
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In 1946, Elgin introduced a completely redesigned series of 16s movements. For these, they used a single, new format for all grades. You can see the difference between the old and the new below. Both of these are 21j, BW Raymond movements. The older 590 is on the left, the new model 571 on the right.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7uJr4UwnDS2UAhYMWFDKxL8f6fy6Z8CCTws3_EG94fPJiaLnba_aWVAYcg5r8M_fbzlsRI558a6_VTdjRLLEJuRoT9d1bKXIo9mlo8gPXFyc08nf5zphR1h2KWd3JDciWD1gj9hUglxk/s1600/WIN_20160320_16_27_10_Pro+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="386" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7uJr4UwnDS2UAhYMWFDKxL8f6fy6Z8CCTws3_EG94fPJiaLnba_aWVAYcg5r8M_fbzlsRI558a6_VTdjRLLEJuRoT9d1bKXIo9mlo8gPXFyc08nf5zphR1h2KWd3JDciWD1gj9hUglxk/s640/WIN_20160320_16_27_10_Pro+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The 571 replaces the screwed-down jewels in gold settings with friction-set jewels. Not as fancy, but easier to manufacture! The cap jewels are fitted into polished steel settings, which are held in place by screws from underneath the bridge or cock. If you look close to the foot of the balance cock, you may notice that the regulator screw has moved to the outside of the cock, and that the watch case has been cut to allow access. <br />
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The winding and setting works were radically changed. The picture below shows the keyless works of the pendant set models of the older version.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMpdmhtFTsnpdlz7BSQSJtrD1EXLa2GkTyze6zXg6LIHcHx-Zz7ThnZ3AF8IBM6Xuc6j8xcnhzjR9KHAuZ8U3ORdeIV7bC3jiFZeVwBZNN6_o88CWSELkTEeLxbfB1vnhm0YnQwyCUvOs/s1600/WIN_20160313_10_36_41_Pro.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMpdmhtFTsnpdlz7BSQSJtrD1EXLa2GkTyze6zXg6LIHcHx-Zz7ThnZ3AF8IBM6Xuc6j8xcnhzjR9KHAuZ8U3ORdeIV7bC3jiFZeVwBZNN6_o88CWSELkTEeLxbfB1vnhm0YnQwyCUvOs/s320/WIN_20160313_10_36_41_Pro.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU__ca6SwrKY2SQDijIVzxav1eaA0uXVf_WvqHQ5tcpmPFYljMkVMqidEiBePZCcqCsulDul0eEg9FeAirE2hvzwSfBT-nG28fVGGMv42S0Pjtdr823JjWsd5SMewe73-a6argR6sn0nk/s1600/WIN_20160313_10_36_58_Pro.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="297" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU__ca6SwrKY2SQDijIVzxav1eaA0uXVf_WvqHQ5tcpmPFYljMkVMqidEiBePZCcqCsulDul0eEg9FeAirE2hvzwSfBT-nG28fVGGMv42S0Pjtdr823JjWsd5SMewe73-a6argR6sn0nk/s320/WIN_20160313_10_36_58_Pro.jpg" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU__ca6SwrKY2SQDijIVzxav1eaA0uXVf_WvqHQ5tcpmPFYljMkVMqidEiBePZCcqCsulDul0eEg9FeAirE2hvzwSfBT-nG28fVGGMv42S0Pjtdr823JjWsd5SMewe73-a6argR6sn0nk/s1600/WIN_20160313_10_36_58_Pro.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br /></a><br />
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What you can't see is the cam and lever on the movement side. The left side is winding mode, with the clutch engaging the bevel pinion. On the right is setting mode, with the clutch engaging the minute wheel.</div>
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Below, the new design, in both pendant set (left) and lever set forms. These are based on wrist watch keyless works, with the whole stem and crown part of the movement. The pendant set form uses a standard set lever to both hold the stem in place, and allow pulling the stem up to change into setting mode. In the lever set form, the set lever is replaced with a detent, which simply holds the stem in place.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4uNMl9xA7L9BO8xtIAthSmWe1lS6OTyJX47IkrNdElcM13NE4wzqUg2AasvHs4ABfH1kUZVxh6uxeDl2svO81-Zqdl3WcfNFvuozDWITHNyLbATvS-lvBu99i_fs3-KLL3PFK9ZCFBDo/s1600/WIN_20160320_15_56_53_Pro+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="364" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4uNMl9xA7L9BO8xtIAthSmWe1lS6OTyJX47IkrNdElcM13NE4wzqUg2AasvHs4ABfH1kUZVxh6uxeDl2svO81-Zqdl3WcfNFvuozDWITHNyLbATvS-lvBu99i_fs3-KLL3PFK9ZCFBDo/s640/WIN_20160320_15_56_53_Pro+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Below, both movements are in setting mode. Pulling up the stem in the pendant set pivots the set lever, which in turn pushes the clutch down into engagement with the minute wheel. In the lever set model, pulling out the setting lever causes it to push the clutch into engagement with the minute wheel.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB5SbYhp3tjYwywrofC0_dUH59NcBGkrMEddb3E-VqF_cJTQVhRpfPXpBLoZ2rv3hiXXB8GZI1gwcZfkKUqt2IyS2lpvOV-pi76GAGL49KybhayCfw2RRJbYcbv7f86pbPgOItprx3mIA/s1600/WIN_20160320_15_57_47_Pro.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="376" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB5SbYhp3tjYwywrofC0_dUH59NcBGkrMEddb3E-VqF_cJTQVhRpfPXpBLoZ2rv3hiXXB8GZI1gwcZfkKUqt2IyS2lpvOV-pi76GAGL49KybhayCfw2RRJbYcbv7f86pbPgOItprx3mIA/s640/WIN_20160320_15_57_47_Pro.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span id="goog_1038774979"></span><span id="goog_1038774980"></span>There were 5 models sold in the 571 series:<br />
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<li>571: 21j, Lever Set, Micrometric Regulator, 8 or 9 Adjustments, BW Raymond Model. This was the only Railroad Approved grade in the series.</li>
<li>572: 19j, Lever Set, Micrometric Regulator, 5 Adjustments.</li>
<li>573: 17j, Lever Set, Micrometric Regulator, 5 Adjustments.</li>
<li>574: 17j, Pendant Set, Micrometric Regulator, 5 Adjustments.</li>
<li>575: 15j, Pendant Set, Open Regulator, 4 Adjustments.</li>
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In 1950, Elgin intoduced their last 'homegrown' 16s watch movement, the 616. It is essentially the 574, with an Open Regulator.</div>
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Below, you can see the full range, from the 571 in the upper left to the 616 in the lower right. </div>
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By 1954, Elgin had stopped production of all but the 571, which continued for sometime after, though it's hard to say how long. Railroads required movements carry serial numbers to allow them to be properly recorded and tracked, so while all of Elgin's other watches lost their serial numbers in 1954 or so, the 571 was made with a block of I-prefix serial numbers set aside for them. </div>
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The 571 series make a nice little collection, and lots of parts are still readily available. The hardest to find in good condition tends to be the 575. Because it was only 15j, they often seem to have been carried till they wore out. Check the Center Wheel bushing for wear.</div>
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GeneJockeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17161884314264237342noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6738648204942530086.post-41029131361785830822016-01-31T14:51:00.000-08:002016-01-31T14:56:37.177-08:00What $10 Will Get You - Epilogue<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Back in 2012 when I originally posted 'What $10 Will Get You', I stopped at the point where the movement was cleaned and running well, but the dial was badly pitted and discolored, and there was no crystal. I put the watch in my "Needs Band And/Or Crystal" drawer, not sure of what to do about the barely readable dial.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK3rJWd55PghQ3dEsBQspyE9g4LwgzEAR7_ydo3v5QBo2KhyphenhyphenMbqkvHO0nc0l2kXobkvQw0w366Cu45k7DYD5d_9k5mnCqfoADQritKIVtr53WE8s09kAQNTG_Dlo8MyPidpp2I3C-gAfw/s1600/P8151027.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK3rJWd55PghQ3dEsBQspyE9g4LwgzEAR7_ydo3v5QBo2KhyphenhyphenMbqkvHO0nc0l2kXobkvQw0w366Cu45k7DYD5d_9k5mnCqfoADQritKIVtr53WE8s09kAQNTG_Dlo8MyPidpp2I3C-gAfw/s640/P8151027.JPG" width="495" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Fast forward to December, 2015. In the intervening time, I discovered the model number in the <a href="http://www.vintagewatchforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=5929">1939 Elgin Catalog</a> It's an 1843, part of Elgin's "Cavalier" series. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgar-PkMHmiRi2Fvu0yHvBCrMzltdaNtNqgzD9r9VyV9Yb3Gu4JJIDlbliA1TOfBX-3Ns_H0U0CmHgUHS2ewry6XfninLgs_8cqShy-fu62GLaBZkrlmMTHG9iGJwpxH4m83UQtO5oIXZc/s1600/1939+Catalog+Pic.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgar-PkMHmiRi2Fvu0yHvBCrMzltdaNtNqgzD9r9VyV9Yb3Gu4JJIDlbliA1TOfBX-3Ns_H0U0CmHgUHS2ewry6XfninLgs_8cqShy-fu62GLaBZkrlmMTHG9iGJwpxH4m83UQtO5oIXZc/s640/1939+Catalog+Pic.JPG" width="281" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">In 1939, Elgin's Men's watches were divided into a number of different series, from the 21 Jewel Lord Elgin series, introduced in 1937, to the 7j Crusader series.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinEv2l0PthqwdRnZwSogMELwFW0cQQfVDeg89wnga8dsqlXw7WyKqavHcTkMoe6qVp4ybm3S5rfZfxYWG74X-8Ux-OsNtTtGX0GQ8P7a9JWvxgEJRwjcY0zIttGn85lX4n8MHbG-_URwQ/s1600/Catalog+Page.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinEv2l0PthqwdRnZwSogMELwFW0cQQfVDeg89wnga8dsqlXw7WyKqavHcTkMoe6qVp4ybm3S5rfZfxYWG74X-8Ux-OsNtTtGX0GQ8P7a9JWvxgEJRwjcY0zIttGn85lX4n8MHbG-_URwQ/s640/Catalog+Page.jpg" width="484" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Great to have a number to put with it! And to verify the dial and case are authentic, and go with a 7j movement. One often finds watches with non-authentic dials, or hotrodded, with higher grade movements, or just plain Frankenized - put together from a number of different watches. This one, though, was authentic.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">At least once a day, I check the Elgin Wrist Watch listings on Ebay. One day in December 2015, more than 3 years after I put the 1843 in the drawer and largely forgot about it, I saw a listing for a similar watch, but with a vastly better dial and hands. It was listed as nonrunning, <i>"</i><i>This watch looks great and the balance swings freely, but will not kick over."</i> I set a snipe, and won it for $20.50.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">When it arrived, I found that the 526 movement was wound up tight, and the balance swung freely. Looking down past the balance, though, I noted that as the balance swung, the pallet didn't move. Looking in from the side I realized there was no roller jewel. So, I stole the hands and dial, and put them on my movement. I used the bezel from the new watch with the caseback and movement of the old watch. The pigskin strap the seller had installed is a perfect match for the original strap in the catalog pic! </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_yy1uGua50NFZuDJsEelGBTuJQW8ivhvm3707CYf6SacGCbel63yLTOCzTqPfVC9UdUt2q8Rr08HN9A5Foe8nMf5GULhUvORwiCwIjUH7mI1wzQ3SLtPe82JbN6Q76dlVtcJAfrL45Q0/s1600/WIN_20160131_12_01_28_Pro.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_yy1uGua50NFZuDJsEelGBTuJQW8ivhvm3707CYf6SacGCbel63yLTOCzTqPfVC9UdUt2q8Rr08HN9A5Foe8nMf5GULhUvORwiCwIjUH7mI1wzQ3SLtPe82JbN6Q76dlVtcJAfrL45Q0/s640/WIN_20160131_12_01_28_Pro.jpg" width="628" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I also noted a problem with the winding. It 'skipped' a lot, as if something in the winding mechanism was slipping back with spring tension. A few years ago, I'd picked up a treasure trove of 8/0 parts on Ebay. Screws, wheels, springs, even jewels.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivbnHCyuRUbDRK2Uj2SRQv1wUqOYre1jR-P_MmyuR7VwfQu5pbb-w0lyJrAEt0qCNt6qTOvcV2iGNlLZ7GjRL2VRwiSuJnYPVyiAaA6GSwE1nDVykkii6X8HWa-JCARFpocsLpSQZinZI/s1600/Parts.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivbnHCyuRUbDRK2Uj2SRQv1wUqOYre1jR-P_MmyuR7VwfQu5pbb-w0lyJrAEt0qCNt6qTOvcV2iGNlLZ7GjRL2VRwiSuJnYPVyiAaA6GSwE1nDVykkii6X8HWa-JCARFpocsLpSQZinZI/s640/Parts.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I replaced the Bevel Pinion and Crown Wheel with new parts, and now it winds perfectly!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">So now my 1843 is back in service. It ended up being a bit more than $10, but I also have an almost-complete 1843, which I may still restore - though redialing it would probably cost more than I've spent altogether so far!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">It's also worth noting that my total expenditure so far - $30.51 - is only $5.51 more than the original price of $25. However, adjusted for inflation, that would be<u> $426.29</u> in 2015 money! This is why I feel like vintage watches, especially the less sought-after brands like Elgin, are such a good value!</span><br />
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GeneJockeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17161884314264237342noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6738648204942530086.post-13143474613623429952015-06-14T21:06:00.000-07:002015-06-16T08:48:14.737-07:00Everybody Loves Raymond, Part 2 - The Beginning!In 1867, Elgin started producing watches. The very first watch, number 101, was a B. W. Raymond. At first, Elgin didn't give their watch movements grade numbers, but instead named them after various prominent people in Elgin's history - investors, Board members, etc. Benjamin Wright Raymond, twice mayor of Chicago, was one of the most prominent investors, and Elgin's first President. From the very start of Elgin, as the National Watch Company, there was a B.W. Raymond watch. They were among the highest grades, mostly Railroad grade for the whole 97 years they were made.<br />
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The first B.W. Raymond movements were 18 size, key wind and key set, 15 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, fast train (18,000 bph). They had a bimetallic balance and were adjusted for temperature. Elgin's other offerings had right-angle lever escapements, slow trains (16200 bph), and were not adjusted. Some had 15 jewels, some had 11, most had 7. Some had solid steel balances, and some had fake bimetallic balances, with no cut to allow expansion. <br />
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When putting together their parts catalogs in the late 19th/early 20th Century, Elgin retroactively assigned grade numbers to their 'Name' grades from the early years. The very first movement, the B. W. Raymond, was assigned Grade 69. Grade 69 was produced for 14 years, with over 29.000 built.<br />
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Recently, I became interested in acquiring an early Elgin, so when a Grade 69 B. W. Raymond, with a serial number below 130,000, and RUNNING came up on Ebay with a good Buy-It-Now price, I jumped on it!<br />
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It's in a 'Silverode' (nickel) case, definitely not original to the watch. There is another screw mark, about 90 degrees counterclockwise from the case screw in the movement.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsTStpEJtayKVboejz8Q6opqWQQTcRwyP26IM6RPloG87je9tPqdyGgIK3EcDZ6LqOMAeAe5Azaf7PZfvYAMm5AeRpt8Q_7LcDPWGF4_QFQmpd_Z5i9AR9bXSht4ydrvZ9W0rAJ3s6F4c/s1600/IMG_0760.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsTStpEJtayKVboejz8Q6opqWQQTcRwyP26IM6RPloG87je9tPqdyGgIK3EcDZ6LqOMAeAe5Azaf7PZfvYAMm5AeRpt8Q_7LcDPWGF4_QFQmpd_Z5i9AR9bXSht4ydrvZ9W0rAJ3s6F4c/s640/IMG_0760.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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Serial number 129194, which most references put at around 1871 - within Elgin's first decade, within their first 5 years of actual production, and only 6 years after the end of the Civil War! There's supposed to be a key guard, held in place by the 3 screws on the barrel bridge (below the balance).<br />
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Once you unscrew the case screw, the movement comes out through the front of the case. Note the pin sticking out from the pillar plate. That goes into a hole in the dial side of the case to locate it, then the case screw snugs it down.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7xEjgjH4pu5RM36wfEM99iI3PbuTFVxfQ1xwexrH5lDqxxlG-sOUxsSgukvupFa1apMC0KaqDd0wnFzSoG3SQa9-3U5fwPyFiWTc8JcdKyFchVajqKIrXi5yA4sWFQ51jG08ZRVBxIuw/s1600/Movement+back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7xEjgjH4pu5RM36wfEM99iI3PbuTFVxfQ1xwexrH5lDqxxlG-sOUxsSgukvupFa1apMC0KaqDd0wnFzSoG3SQa9-3U5fwPyFiWTc8JcdKyFchVajqKIrXi5yA4sWFQ51jG08ZRVBxIuw/s640/Movement+back.jpg" width="638" /></a></div>
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The dial is held on by three brass taper pins that go through crossdrilled holes in the dial feet. You can see one of them in between the two pillars on the Pillar Plate (lower). Pull those out, and the dial comes off - assuming you've removed the minute and hour hands first!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxs-3vzGSzWIkXT50R0cpKRHh33R2JaTq02offZU4BzOAImABqouKeqi0JMw-kl80szTYu5N5817gOjVsGfRSy-d13keB0tGeTdaDtyobAvxfIZXMgltUo-D3KgcSK1Txl_zULs1InGyQ/s1600/Dial+held+on.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="596" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxs-3vzGSzWIkXT50R0cpKRHh33R2JaTq02offZU4BzOAImABqouKeqi0JMw-kl80szTYu5N5817gOjVsGfRSy-d13keB0tGeTdaDtyobAvxfIZXMgltUo-D3KgcSK1Txl_zULs1InGyQ/s640/Dial+held+on.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Without the dial, you can see just how simple the setting works are. Note the square on the top of the cannon pinion. Put a key there, and turn to set. Simple!<br />
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You can also see that there are jewels in the pillar plate to match those on the top plate.<br />
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The movement disassembles pretty easily - essentially the reverse of the assembly which I'll show later. One important point to remember with any full plate watch is to remove the screws that hold the top plate in place, then flip the movement over and lift the pillar plate off. This prevents breaking the pallet. We'll see why later.<br />
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Even though the American watch industry was built around the large-scale production of identical watch parts by machinery, in these early watches, many of the parts were stamped with the serial number, perhaps because they weren't REALLY interchangeable! Here are all the numbered parts from 129194. Note that they're ALL from 129194! This may be the equivalent of a vintage car with Matching Numbers! Note that the barrel and barrel cap are stamped. Even the hour wheel!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0cCYyT_zqQBofKZ1GH7wL4xK2uzmollUhZQIIpG7F66vMPksYEcjb-ueaPaM4aVhydms6G9Q4Na30rJ43vt0SGtt7A-FHQ4QZZ4hNn_RqCuQsJtVGXuUJt2-IqaVa0AcN9Qe73iPL-nU/s1600/Numbered+parts.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="610" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0cCYyT_zqQBofKZ1GH7wL4xK2uzmollUhZQIIpG7F66vMPksYEcjb-ueaPaM4aVhydms6G9Q4Na30rJ43vt0SGtt7A-FHQ4QZZ4hNn_RqCuQsJtVGXuUJt2-IqaVa0AcN9Qe73iPL-nU/s640/Numbered+parts.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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As I took it apart, it was apparent that it had been cleaned and oiled quite recently. In retrospect, it might have been best to leave it alone, but that wouldn't have provided such interesting pictures!<br />
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Cleaning was done as usual - polish the jewels with pegwood, including pegging out the holes. Clean pivots in pithwood, before running through the L&R Master. <br />
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First step in reassembly is to replace the cap and hole jewels in the balance cock and potence. 'What's a potence?', I hear you asking. Well, it's essentially a foot for the balance. It holds the lower jewels, and has an opening for the pallet fork. It screws onto the underside of the top plate.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWF2qHZTkZelrKIfVnLhNUy2AhZFSr4uKeqEEQc5ETWzeIn0oWouZeA1nAJlN_5GiuT5VQMnH4gtfhemrHVpFt_0i1D0IMVis_zb8lrAzOYsHxn2_mOmpW10QN926_n-EueQYTw_rK6ek/s1600/Potence+cap+jewel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="584" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWF2qHZTkZelrKIfVnLhNUy2AhZFSr4uKeqEEQc5ETWzeIn0oWouZeA1nAJlN_5GiuT5VQMnH4gtfhemrHVpFt_0i1D0IMVis_zb8lrAzOYsHxn2_mOmpW10QN926_n-EueQYTw_rK6ek/s640/Potence+cap+jewel.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Next the balance cock.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXQkgFuExS8Cz8T2bhntt7mpm0TRdhc6gKANUOFSHT3QFVv1r1UwNHYUEDEbJ7PR6HxFR09FoOwQfvCryVOHJOUmlNvkT4TLOXFfob1Y_-jtaQV9ID21oFMvbEJ-d42U2YPMV5eUMLWVQ/s1600/Cock+cap+jewel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXQkgFuExS8Cz8T2bhntt7mpm0TRdhc6gKANUOFSHT3QFVv1r1UwNHYUEDEbJ7PR6HxFR09FoOwQfvCryVOHJOUmlNvkT4TLOXFfob1Y_-jtaQV9ID21oFMvbEJ-d42U2YPMV5eUMLWVQ/s640/Cock+cap+jewel.jpg" width="618" /></a></div>
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Now I like to put the balance in place and check the freedom and the 'breathing' of the hairspring. In this case, you just put the balance and cock in place on the top plate, without the pillar plate.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiODO-677hsYcW2hl10Ul4KyHyGXnB73-Xm0gAGSmhSh8ti9o3iXv-rsQmiszqfN78MkUspXhBjmxkF5WIxD-o2i9f1Iz1nmdSMeVXELQgJnsqBA0lK2jw2ZO9DtekJvBHaOTy0hLvIHhs/s1600/Balance+freedom.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="560" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiODO-677hsYcW2hl10Ul4KyHyGXnB73-Xm0gAGSmhSh8ti9o3iXv-rsQmiszqfN78MkUspXhBjmxkF5WIxD-o2i9f1Iz1nmdSMeVXELQgJnsqBA0lK2jw2ZO9DtekJvBHaOTy0hLvIHhs/s640/Balance+freedom.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Next I oil the balance jewels, as I've done elsewhere with fixed jewels - put a little oil in the cup side of the hole jewel, then push it through with a fine wire.<br />
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Now that the balance jewels are oiled, we're ready to put it all back together~<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFhwCqFQmbsD3TPMCuLVFrnskGafA4jwb3IQSPnktUOTfL-r2zugPB0-v0kB0jJDCGts1q3KLe10L5ws3omWNTCxb88WjWWpB3INDZLgxC18tQX9ydEJU4BopR5mDDM1mMu8xrkEkztIo/s1600/Ready+To+Start.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFhwCqFQmbsD3TPMCuLVFrnskGafA4jwb3IQSPnktUOTfL-r2zugPB0-v0kB0jJDCGts1q3KLe10L5ws3omWNTCxb88WjWWpB3INDZLgxC18tQX9ydEJU4BopR5mDDM1mMu8xrkEkztIo/s640/Ready+To+Start.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Next step is to put the ratchet and click assembly together. It all goes on the dial side of the pillar plate. Once you grease the click post, the click spring goes in place first, then the click and the ratchet wheel. The last you simply place in the recess, since there's nothing to hold it till the barrel goes in place later. The recess below the lefthand side of the click is how you let down the spring. There's a hole in the side of the pillar plate where you insert a small screwdriver to disengage the click, while holding a key on the winding square of the barrel arbor.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKy7GCDenJ9rwHOHOMjC7QoeuIibZesS6nG3od-EvuyyGat-RwKEAH55e6ASY8xYmQwvpPv9lON6TpVvhyphenhyphengCp5S4SnrgIaOIUZp4o5cGhsfN3jgx9uCVRwhKgg4xK8ogvjD8_pdZ2GxU8/s1600/Ratchet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="632" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKy7GCDenJ9rwHOHOMjC7QoeuIibZesS6nG3od-EvuyyGat-RwKEAH55e6ASY8xYmQwvpPv9lON6TpVvhyphenhyphengCp5S4SnrgIaOIUZp4o5cGhsfN3jgx9uCVRwhKgg4xK8ogvjD8_pdZ2GxU8/s640/Ratchet.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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A plate covers it all - and it's also stamped with the serial number!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCQJvBR1u7b3UNlFZfIXqQANnsl_FDluUyj_T0muAEW5RN4PNZPQSihYDrvRhcIO7AnceiK7o_KaZRAn4kUTi3lMEBwdZWpjBBQtS5qIS4JAeHUGLty3CDEHqOBiWk8gl7OIMtkJKT4YQ/s1600/Ratchet+Cover.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="560" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCQJvBR1u7b3UNlFZfIXqQANnsl_FDluUyj_T0muAEW5RN4PNZPQSihYDrvRhcIO7AnceiK7o_KaZRAn4kUTi3lMEBwdZWpjBBQtS5qIS4JAeHUGLty3CDEHqOBiWk8gl7OIMtkJKT4YQ/s640/Ratchet+Cover.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The next step is to put in the train. Because of the potence, it's MUCH easier to build it upside down. That is, place the pallet and wheels into the jewels on the top plate, then place the pillar plate on top of it. Note how the for of the pallet goes into the opening in the potence.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPqn7PcXOnSpFGM8aZFnHEezqnuzyMwVh8VInyKz7kO-qP0hGsfIJJHkRWHcblH6tLUNhIxACmQqyj9TcPjCak9N8ViKvA81KBo41tq57BJuwRScFuXJYik3bfocRz2wCOoAaB56tUUTw/s1600/Step+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPqn7PcXOnSpFGM8aZFnHEezqnuzyMwVh8VInyKz7kO-qP0hGsfIJJHkRWHcblH6tLUNhIxACmQqyj9TcPjCak9N8ViKvA81KBo41tq57BJuwRScFuXJYik3bfocRz2wCOoAaB56tUUTw/s640/Step+1.jpg" width="628" /></a></div>
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Next add the escape and 3rd wheels.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi3QY7fQr08Coycz_XjjsFEkSlgtAR8sKUiJcrKpZgucaejOuibILlzLKgWy2sjxYbQNP1WLqiOTnra3lXTiH-oUtX-WGAxBtOY1Zcj2obuH03Rb2tnSsXJhqEMRmpETXY9Q1LggaVI50/s1600/Step+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi3QY7fQr08Coycz_XjjsFEkSlgtAR8sKUiJcrKpZgucaejOuibILlzLKgWy2sjxYbQNP1WLqiOTnra3lXTiH-oUtX-WGAxBtOY1Zcj2obuH03Rb2tnSsXJhqEMRmpETXY9Q1LggaVI50/s640/Step+2.jpg" width="598" /></a></div>
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After adding the 4th and center wheels - with the long posts UP! - place the pillar plate. Sight through the center hole to place the center wheel post. The rest of it is just jiggling the pivots of the 3rd, 4th, and escape wheels and the pallet into place. Then the pillar plate should drop into place. Make sure you see all four pivots in their jewel holes!!!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8u3__pddm4hUZOgc8hzmGn2kkpxd0HtcDxaLsokxZcaCZKCfFqHjB730wGyoRy338fsBdM0WVdq7Vlu67AbLkVi2FOvJpTWpQO6AhkDgK5JXrqUyYKI8HoGiB7KyfVmZry-m-sFvd6pA/s1600/Pillar+plate+in+place.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8u3__pddm4hUZOgc8hzmGn2kkpxd0HtcDxaLsokxZcaCZKCfFqHjB730wGyoRy338fsBdM0WVdq7Vlu67AbLkVi2FOvJpTWpQO6AhkDgK5JXrqUyYKI8HoGiB7KyfVmZry-m-sFvd6pA/s640/Pillar+plate+in+place.jpg" width="614" /></a></div>
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Now the tricky part - you have to flip the whole thing over while holding it together! Once that's done, you can add the screws for the first two pillars. If you look in the off-center hole, you can see the lower balance jewels and the pallet fork. On the right, next to the center wheel, the keyhole-shaped opening is for the lower end of the barrel arbor. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvDUbBqDC2gm0h3G4uNVe4E4DWdM1Ua1sR6fxKEimBRogoZTC8jIdbaiP_5_Imk5sd3xRsdB-09g9wyf2bCVz6ZaHmIt0_c2MllaDwiq0zGwvZ7sKJOvnxOS7Fb-j2mda9i47wVoN_qow/s1600/Ready+for+screws.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="618" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvDUbBqDC2gm0h3G4uNVe4E4DWdM1Ua1sR6fxKEimBRogoZTC8jIdbaiP_5_Imk5sd3xRsdB-09g9wyf2bCVz6ZaHmIt0_c2MllaDwiq0zGwvZ7sKJOvnxOS7Fb-j2mda9i47wVoN_qow/s640/Ready+for+screws.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The barrel arbor has a square shaft with a cylindrical tip, which goes into the hole in the ratchet wheel cover. This model may have originally come with Geneva Stopworks, a system to prevent both overwinding and excessive rundown of the mainspring, but they're gone now! You can still see the recess where they went.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlWQfw6koxwh5oqeY81u-ItD_Z980SZ4egMz6FIIvzSGoGxK6LFvv_hE9svVIQuvZiYIItkq6QEwBsX_RXSC9wgNj5Q0lwFNHzhuU9-BoRl0rqKNgRYLBZSVEVTOirGGI-NXHdRtGw4rs/s1600/No+Stopworks.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="544" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlWQfw6koxwh5oqeY81u-ItD_Z980SZ4egMz6FIIvzSGoGxK6LFvv_hE9svVIQuvZiYIItkq6QEwBsX_RXSC9wgNj5Q0lwFNHzhuU9-BoRl0rqKNgRYLBZSVEVTOirGGI-NXHdRtGw4rs/s640/No+Stopworks.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Place this side down in the recess, and using a key, gently turn the square upper end of the barrel arbor until the barrel drops into place.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8BJZ5ok1D-D7kLkKxZLKeIMgt0IJbT0L4RcXm1sp8D6J9EFZyt-lSTBJnnnzs407Df_bew48NlY-LBuna-4oYjnFTkbcwi2TEdbBV6eR3T-RfpN7IRbPsgQAMEsiKHMe5mR1QuDwEb1o/s1600/Ready+for+Barrel+bridge.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8BJZ5ok1D-D7kLkKxZLKeIMgt0IJbT0L4RcXm1sp8D6J9EFZyt-lSTBJnnnzs407Df_bew48NlY-LBuna-4oYjnFTkbcwi2TEdbBV6eR3T-RfpN7IRbPsgQAMEsiKHMe5mR1QuDwEb1o/s640/Ready+for+Barrel+bridge.jpg" width="618" /></a></div>
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Add the barrel bridge and screw it down. Installing the balance and cock is like any other movement - start with the roller jewel on the far side of the opening in the pallet fork, drop the balance into engagement, and rotate the cock relative to the movement until it's in place to install. Making sure the balance is turning, so it's free, as you screw down the cock screw. Now you're ready to wind it up!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigDnfZMbu8X66EItkYvsTd9q8l6JCdXAwyFGg5B_LZE3sLtTSEXwIyO_3z0Pd7ZXxLTGDTXC0W6zIzuLDcd_run-eA5hmZ05jnJHe2hhp1tDT-zRzsUHr0z4n4LTJunjlQwb6FGSTJ1kY/s1600/Winding+up.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigDnfZMbu8X66EItkYvsTd9q8l6JCdXAwyFGg5B_LZE3sLtTSEXwIyO_3z0Pd7ZXxLTGDTXC0W6zIzuLDcd_run-eA5hmZ05jnJHe2hhp1tDT-zRzsUHr0z4n4LTJunjlQwb6FGSTJ1kY/s640/Winding+up.jpg" width="582" /></a></div>
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I had noticed when testing before disassembly, that the cannon pinion was slightly loose. This allowed the minute and hour hands to sometimes stop, or run slowly despite the otherwise reasonably accurate rate. So I used an old trick - a hair through the cannon pinion when you install it! Here's the dial side, ready for the dial train.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVcAQEdsnxOf_EBulwi1IwheTtc01OHqWNPCWwee9NmbmKKC_krmWeTxHuDprTYKNpAjGY-u1nHo1iZDvAFNB5yceXBsmFaKdaDnPiuqYkOd2-tXde_HYpql1iEsvQVpIIMnM4tVN1uME/s1600/Ready+for+Dial+Train.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVcAQEdsnxOf_EBulwi1IwheTtc01OHqWNPCWwee9NmbmKKC_krmWeTxHuDprTYKNpAjGY-u1nHo1iZDvAFNB5yceXBsmFaKdaDnPiuqYkOd2-tXde_HYpql1iEsvQVpIIMnM4tVN1uME/s640/Ready+for+Dial+Train.jpg" width="616" /></a></div>
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The dial goes back on the same way it came off, with the taper pins. Then the whole thing goes into the case. Place the pin in the hole at 11:00, then flip over to screw down the case screw. It's a bit of a pain, since it's a half-head screw. You have to hold the movement by the dial side to lift it so that the case screw can be tightened properly.</div>
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Placing the hands is a little bit more complex. The minute hand has a square hole, and it's not set up so that the hand is at one of the corners. You need to set the cannon pinion so that when the minute hand is placed it will be at 12:00, then install the hour hand exactly at an hour, then install the minute hand pointing at 12:00. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhojarFIChbFOBzF5-5cea2HffLzrrUOlCmjrDp_CndXe08zQDyT9r-5xLdLJSRlHvo1rKONM6JsFIgeh42oB1i7Ry8s9GnNzqUuADjNOw1oBoUSalXrdMcmzptIpJxmUpQ0ri1zOa_JVQ/s1600/Dial+Side.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhojarFIChbFOBzF5-5cea2HffLzrrUOlCmjrDp_CndXe08zQDyT9r-5xLdLJSRlHvo1rKONM6JsFIgeh42oB1i7Ry8s9GnNzqUuADjNOw1oBoUSalXrdMcmzptIpJxmUpQ0ri1zOa_JVQ/s640/Dial+Side.jpg" width="584" /></a></div>
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So there you have it - the first model of Elgin B. W. Raymond! Here it is with the LAST model of B.W. Raymond pocketwatch, the 571, and the first B.W. Raymond Railroad Wrist Chronometer, the 730A.</div>
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GeneJockeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17161884314264237342noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6738648204942530086.post-47470126065899884442014-02-09T11:48:00.000-08:002014-02-17T08:26:08.585-08:00571, or Everybody Loves (BW) Raymond<span style="font-size: small;">UPDATED - see bottom of post.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">Although</span> I now collect wrist watches, I started out two decades ago collecting pocket watches. I was particularly fascinated by American railroad watches.<br />
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The 19th Century was a time when technology was growing by leaps and bounds, at least compared to all the centuries before. In 1800, the fastest a man could travel was on a galloping horse, about 40 mph, and not for very long! Travel across the continent took months, requiring careful planning, careful conservation of resources, and a lot of luck. Along came the steam locomotive, and within a few decades it was possible to travel from sea to shining sea in a matter of a few days.<br />
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Railroads laid track everywhere, but being businesses, they needed maximize the profits they could wring from the investment. In many places that meant multiple trains running on a single track, sometimes in the same direction at very different speeds, sometimes in opposing directions. To prevent accidents, railroads carefully calculated their schedules, so that for example the slower freight train that started first would pull off into a siding at a particular time to allow the faster express coming behind it to pass. This meant train crews needed to know the correct time, to the minute. To make that possible, railroaders were required to carry and use a high-quality watch, to have it inspected for accuracy frequently, to have it serviced routinely by a railroad-approved watchmaker. The safety of the train crews and the passengers depended on it.<br />
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<a href="http://mb.nawcc.org/showwiki.php?title=Railroad_Time_Service">There's a lot more on railroad time services on the NAWCC's site.</a><br />
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From the time Elgin was founded in 1865, they always made at least one movement of very high quality, suitable for railroad use - the B. W. Raymond. It started out as a 15j keywound, 18s movement, but the name was applied over then next 100 years to a wide range of movements - 18s, 16s, even 12s pocket watches, and finally even the 13/0s 730A and 780 B.W. Raymond Railroad Wrist Chronometers. The final iteration, around 1964, carried a Swiss sweep seconds movement.<br />
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The last model of B.W. Raymond pocket watch was the 571, a 21j, 16s watch with the latest horological and metallurgical advances of the time. It had an unbreakable Durapower mainspring, a monometallic balance and a balance spring that didn't change elasticity with temperature, unlike steel. Elgin made at least 87,000 of these, primarily for railroad service. I've wanted one for a long time, and recently I was able to pick one up for a pretty good price, by taking a risk on a listing with lousy pictures and a seller with very little feedback. Sometimes you get the bear!<br />
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I was very pleased with it when it arrived! It's in very good shape, with no macroscopically visible brassing on the case. The hands are the proper Elgin originals, right down to the spear-shaped second hand. The bow is nice and tight - frequently one sees these with replacement bows, reflecting a long life under hard conditions! When I removed the bezel, I was VERY happy to see a perfect, hairline-free porcelain dial.<br />
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The movement was in good shape. Not pristine, but clean and with no obvious bodges.<br />
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The serial number dates it to 1950, right in the middle of the switch from Steam to Diesel.<br />
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I noted that the regulator was set to the 'fast' end of the scale, usually an indicator of needing service. With some trepidation, I wound it up. The balance started right up, and ran beautifully with lots of amplitude. I timed it on Biburo, and saw that, Dial Up, it ran pretty much dead on, but with the double track that indicates significant beat error. Dial Down, it ran fast about 8 sec/day. The pendant positions had it running fast between 20 and 30 seconds/day. I ran it overnight DU, and it gained 4 seconds. I carried it for a day, and it gained 10 seconds. I allowed it to run down completely, which took roughly 49 hours.<br />
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Not railroad standard, which is <30 seconds/week, but for a watch with unknown history, an okay place to start!<br />
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With much trepidation, I undertook the job of servicing it. I won't detail the cleaning, apart from to say that it needed it. The pivots were all dry, with the usual residue on the surfaces. I have altered my cleaning regimen so that now I clean and polish the jewels with pegwood BEFORE running the parts through the cleaner. This does away with the need for Rodico to clean off the pegwood debris.<br />
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After running through the machine, I pithed all the pivots, reassembled and oiled the cap jewels, and laid out the pieces ready for assembly.<br />
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Oh, yeah - I had opened the barrel, removed the mainspring, cleaned it an the barrel, oiled it, and put it back into the barrel with a winder - the only safe way to do so!<br />
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Recently I've started checking the balance as the first step of a reassembly, so let's have a look at it - the heart of a Railroad watch!<br />
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Note the gold balance screws, and the meantime screws at the 4 quarters. These have extra-long threads to allow them to be moved in or out to adjust the rate. At the time it was made, the 571 was the only model in Elgin's line with meantime screws. Sharp, experienced eyes will also note that the terminal curve of the overcoil - the regulator sweep - is NOT concentric,but rather is bent to the outside. More on that in a moment.<br />
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I installed the balance in the cock, and installed that onto the pillar plate.<br />
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A light puff with the blower, and the balance spins like mad! This is the time to check whether the balance runs true in the round and the flat, and also to observe whether the hairspring itself is true. In this case, it was more open toward the pallet side. With my finest tweezers I gently grabbed the spring at the last bend, and with a needle held in a pin vise, GENTLY prodded that curve slightly more closed. It took a couple tries, but in the end I was satisfied that it was now true. I removed the balance and cock and set it aside till later.<br />
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The first step is to install the barrel and the set lever screw lightly greasing the latter. In the 571, this is not really a set lever screw, but rather a DETENT lever scew. More on that later.<br />
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Next comes the train, starting with the escape wheel, the the 3rd , the 4th, and finally the center wheel. Different movements stack them differently, so you need to either remember the order, or just look for the big cut out in the pillar plate. Note the one for the 3rd wheel above<br />
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Now comes the barrel bridge. Before tightening the screws, make sure you see the glint of the pivots in the jewel holes!<br />
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Now the train bridge. While the center and 3rd wheel pivots generally drop right into place, the 4th and escape pivots usually need a little fiddling. But you'll know when they're in place - the bridge will generally drop into place, and if you prod the center wheel, the whole train will spin smoothly, slowly coming to a stop. This is your first indication that your cleaning was successful. I generally hold down the bridge with a finger or a piece of pegwood while installing the first screw, and before I torque it all the way down, I check yet again to make sure the train runs freely.<br />
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If you look carefully, you can see that the escape and 4th wheels are in motion!<br />
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Now comes the ratchet wheel, click, and crown wheel. Once the ratchet wheel and click are in place, you can check backlash. Wind the ratchet wheel up a couple clicks, and observe the train. It should spin smoothly, then stop and run backwards for a second or so, coming smoothly to a halt. If it doesn't do that, you have to go back and fix that before going on.<br />
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The 571's keyless works are different from most other railroad watches in an important respect, for reasons that date back to the start of watchmaking companies in America. For the first 50 or so years, the watch companies sold only movements. Other companies made cases, and jewelers would pair the watch movement to the case for the buyer. The crown and stem were part of the case. In the 1920s, the watch companies started selling cased watches so that the case would be unique to the company. Elgin took advantage of this with their "Streamline" series of 12s pocket watches, making the stem and crown part of the movement - the whole stem and crown needed to be removed by loosening the set lever screw, just as in a wrist watch. This did away with the fiddly and easily breakable sleeves in the pendant of the case, but if a watchmaker tried to remove the movement from the case as they always had, they'd break the stem or the set lever.<br />
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With the introduction of the 571, Elgin applied the same approach to the stem in a lever-set movement. In this case however, what had been the set lever merely holds the stem in the movement, becoming a detent lever. The problem is, unlike 12s and smaller watches, American 16s movements had never done it that way, so one often sees 571s with broken detent levers, and over the last 50 years, the stock of NOS ones has largely dried up. If you're buying a 571, you should check that the stem is held in the movement! Here's the piece:<br />
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And here it is in context.<br />
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The setting lever pivots on the set lever screw, moving the clutch into engagement with the bevel pinion to wind, as it is here, or with the hour wheel to set.<br />
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Back on the movement side, it's time to install the pallet. As always, make sure the pivots are in place before tightening the pallet cock screw! You can JUST see it in this pic.<br />
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Once screwed down, you can check that the pallet is free by seeing whether it falls from bank to bank when there's no power on the train and you turn the movement one way and the other. Ideally, it should fall from its own weight, as here.<br />
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Put a few winds onto the mainspring, and test the snap. Moved a little, the pallet should return to the banking pin. Moved a little further, and it should snap across to the other banking pin. This is a good time to apply lubricant to the pallet stones - I use Moebius 9415, and only on the impulse surface.<br />
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Now you can install the balance. Often, as in this case, the balance starts turning as soon as it drops into place.<br />
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Make sure it KEEPS turning as you tighten the screw. If it stops turning, stop tightening IMMEDIATELY, and get it started again.<br />
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Once it was all back together and running well, I wound it up fully, and moved the regulator to the center of the range. I tested it on Biburo. <br />
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Dead on, and even better the double track is now a single line. Adjusting the hairspring moved the balance back into beat!<br />
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I recased it, and let it run overnight. Most of the position error seems to have gone, and I've started the process of regulation. I don't REALLY expect Railroad Standard, but this watch is easily capable of it in the hands of a pro! I'll update as it goes through its paces!<br />
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UPDATE: I spent this week doing position testing, in all 6 positions. The mean rate was -8 for all positions, with no big losers or gainers. Using Biburo, I moved the regulator just a little faster. It was showing -7.5sec, so I moved it to +0.5. I reset it, getting it as close to dead on with NIST as possible on Saturday morning. I was off by -1 sec. Sunday morning, it was at -4. I carried it all day Sunday, and Monday morning it was at -3, so it gained 1 sec. <br />
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I declare it As Good As It's Going To Get! GeneJockeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17161884314264237342noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6738648204942530086.post-80795699356908957572014-02-03T20:24:00.005-08:002014-02-03T20:28:37.130-08:001942 Elgin Catalog - Now With Better Pictures!Let's see if this is better....<br />
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If you right-click on the image, choose "Open link in new tab", you can enlarge the image up to a pretty reasonable size. <br />
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<br />GeneJockeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17161884314264237342noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6738648204942530086.post-66282746285198726052014-02-01T18:38:00.000-08:002014-02-04T23:55:16.213-08:001942 Elgin Catalog<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
UPDATE: Scanned pics now available in <a href="http://gjselgins.blogspot.com/2014/02/1942-elgin-catalog-now-with-better.html">this post.</a></div>
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One frustration of collecting Elgins is the lack of documentation. While Hamilton collectors have catalogs for every year from 1930 to 1970 as well as production figures for both movements and cases, we Elgin collectors have had to make do with ONE catalog from 1939, and all the ads we could find. </div>
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Last week, I saw a 1942 Elgin Catalog on Ebay, and I just HAD TO get it. And I did! It arrived last night, and I'm posting it here and elsewhere to get it as widely available as possible.</div>
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<br />GeneJockeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17161884314264237342noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6738648204942530086.post-15765726071022621852013-09-14T16:16:00.000-07:002013-09-14T19:04:44.712-07:00And Now For Something Completely Different...Lately, I've become interested in some of Elgin's OTHER products. In addition to over 56,000,000 watches, Elgin also made several kinds of interval timers.<br />
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These are like stopwatches - normally the hands are still; push the crown and the second hand starts; push it again and it stops; push yet again and the second hand returns to zero. Elgin made them in two different types - a 60 second timer, like the one on the left; and a 10 second timer like the one on the right. In the former, the second hand takes 60 seconds to go around the dial, whereas in the latter, it takes only 10 seconds. More on that later.<br />
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Elgins Timers differ from a standard stop watch in that while the balance and train on a stop watch run only when timing, the balance and train on the Elgin Timers runs as long as the piece is wound, with the hands only engaged and running when the crown is pushed.<br />
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The movements appear at first glance to be ordinary 16s Elgin pocket watch movements. The 60 second timer on the left is a 7-jewel movement, grade 469. This one dates to 1919. The 10 second timer on the right is a 15-jewel 582, from 1942. The gilt plates and plain finish mark this as a WWII piece - the War Department wouldn't pay for frills, apparently, and I also understand that nickel, normally used to coat the plates as in the 469, was needed for the war effort. You'll also see gilt plates in some of the wrist watches produced at that time.<br />
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It looks like the 10 second timer has no balance, but it's there! The 10 second timer runs at 30 beats per second, 6 times the speed of a normal watch. To accomplish this, Elgin combined a small, light balance wheel with a strong hairspring.<br />
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There it is, whizzing away underneath the regulator! These 10 second timers are often called 'Jitterbugs', because of the sound they make - a rattling buzz, kind of like an insect. Although some of the 15j 582s were 60 second timers, most seem to be the Jitterbugs. Once you see one running, you know why they didn't make the Jitterbugs in 7-jewel - they run so fast that they'd burn through their bushings in no time!<br />
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Okay, so how do they work?<br />
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What Elgin did was to add a column wheel chronograph-style stop works to the dial-side of a 16 size movement.<br />
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Compare this to the chronograph works on this Hamilton Model 23 chronograph.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3dgRtDiUc8jmQ6NBYQK3H1qRZlT00krcRt85Mcb-hAVA45aK2FNtJhL6UAa6AtlEXY4EtEiywDe9BTWrwT4CfrW3C7hmJ02Jem7-wm7RbEnLE7RuQFES_bvqJ5KWNIvODchy60EyTP-E/s1600/P6190299.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3dgRtDiUc8jmQ6NBYQK3H1qRZlT00krcRt85Mcb-hAVA45aK2FNtJhL6UAa6AtlEXY4EtEiywDe9BTWrwT4CfrW3C7hmJ02Jem7-wm7RbEnLE7RuQFES_bvqJ5KWNIvODchy60EyTP-E/s640/P6190299.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Pushing the crown pushes down on the Actuating Lever at 1. It pivots at 2, so that the distal end at 3 is pushed out, pulling the Cam Hook at 4 to the left. The Cam Hook rotates the Column Wheel at 5 clockwise. The column wheel is topped with 5 columns and 5 spaces. Three levers are worked by these columns and spaces, as you'll see.</div>
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When the crown is pushed once,the column wheel rotates so that the end of the Connecting Lever at 1 falls into a space, allowing it to pivot up. This causes the Connecting Lever Pinion at 2 to move a tiny distance up. The Connecting Lever Pinion is meshed with the 4th wheel on the train side so it rotates whenever the train is running. The upper end moves into engagement with the Seconds Wheel, turning it at the same rate as the 4th wheel.<br />
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At the same time, the Flyback Lever at 3 engages a column, pushing it up so that the Minute and Second Flyback Hammers at 4 are lifted off the Heart Cams on the Second and Minute Wheels., allowing these wheels to turn.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTTgWKtiQmsCrW0CDXYJ0JzvfFoRc4_m93nab1PpBBjFDzvJDQlJak0YjLRJWumrpELj7a_MCs96INdmj7unqG0F0G3TMX6rpk5Rhbd4p0K7mES4bCCKf7JRCjCxm2EFr_HygZwAtxE3E/s1600/Slide5.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDimZCc9f5S6vguUpL0m_HegXOvYSC4s0DSFd4bstPQIz1T7hFVuu1hZ-WpP_pgxSEoTz6mc5uJOpmEd1VI3pNYJB4pNYgvto07gY2gC7A3PVXn9aKIwcVkAUGX5ep1jX8MG_A4X1HdEU/s1600/Slide2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDimZCc9f5S6vguUpL0m_HegXOvYSC4s0DSFd4bstPQIz1T7hFVuu1hZ-WpP_pgxSEoTz6mc5uJOpmEd1VI3pNYJB4pNYgvto07gY2gC7A3PVXn9aKIwcVkAUGX5ep1jX8MG_A4X1HdEU/s640/Slide2.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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The minute register does not turn smoothly, but rather jumps one space as the second hand passes Zero. The Second Wheel has a Finger Piece at 1 which turns the intermediate wheel at 2 as it passes, once per rotation. The Intermediate Wheel meshes with the Minute Register Wheel, so it turns it one click, limited by the Pawl Spring at 4.<br />
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A second push of the crown rotates the Column Wheel another step, causing a column to push the Connecting Lever down at 2, disengaging the Connecting Lever Pinion at 2 from the Second Wheel, stopping the hands.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaRpDsNty6N5igIcGoe6b9vDmw_Au6svB7cZT8ohVDL-Hqy9DURj7pVAf7R3Lm75k80enY67UKyttYXiO2o2XLL0Lqy8tMnEousxV5nfKNGAMxyYv0mAFlVFINFAiTC_MI8yD8rsVGEUE/s1600/Slide4.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaRpDsNty6N5igIcGoe6b9vDmw_Au6svB7cZT8ohVDL-Hqy9DURj7pVAf7R3Lm75k80enY67UKyttYXiO2o2XLL0Lqy8tMnEousxV5nfKNGAMxyYv0mAFlVFINFAiTC_MI8yD8rsVGEUE/s640/Slide4.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
A third push of the crown turns the Column Wheel so that the Flyback Lever at 1 falls into a space, causing the Flyback Hammers at 2 to hit the Heart Cams, swinging them to their lowest points, bringing the hands back to zero. <br />
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These timers were made in large numbers during WWII, and used for a variety of purposes. Mostly, they're cased in one of the two styles I have shown here. The Jitterbugs seem to have been cased only in the case shown here, while I've seen the 60 second timer in both styles, and with a number of different dials. GeneJockeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17161884314264237342noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6738648204942530086.post-14197970696491631962013-06-23T16:06:00.000-07:002013-06-24T07:19:47.747-07:00For A Few Dollars More - Part 5: Regulation and CasingWith your movement fully wound, and the regulator centered on the scale, you can regulate it. That is, you can set the rate so that the watch will neither gain nor lose time.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi058pK2nib4d7sf62vNtNmQn1jpkAYcfQd6dnUoOApJtbCuADU_6QiYamtkGQfxmOFe35Uv1QSj_ZCf9ZGO4u8M0Hn1cLh_vnhL2oUpV2vrRakTKuvT0BbNebe4T3dD-2vQhtwreVMFw8/s1600/P6120248.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi058pK2nib4d7sf62vNtNmQn1jpkAYcfQd6dnUoOApJtbCuADU_6QiYamtkGQfxmOFe35Uv1QSj_ZCf9ZGO4u8M0Hn1cLh_vnhL2oUpV2vrRakTKuvT0BbNebe4T3dD-2vQhtwreVMFw8/s640/P6120248.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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At the same time, you can determine amplitude and beat error.<br />
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Amplitude is how far the balance swings on each oscillation, and is a good measure of the condition of the watch, how good a job you've done cleaning it, and whether that mainspring really should have been replaced. Ideally, amplitude should be greater than 250 degrees. That is, the balance should swing at least 250 degrees past the point where the roller jewel is in line between the centerlines of the balance and pallet.<br />
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Beat error is a measure of how close to perfectly centered the roller jewel is when at rest. Ideally, with no power in the train, the roller jewel should be exactly aligned between the balance and pallet, and should hold the pallet lever exactly midway between the banking pins. This enhances accuracy, and allows the watch to 'self-start' with only a slight winding. In a later post I'll cover how I determine beat error and minimize it. <br />
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Although there are a number of timing machines available, if you've been following this blog you know by now that I'm cheap! And in this case I'm also lucky! If you look on watchmaking forums, you'll find a number of posts on using your PC to regulate your watches, and discussions of available software. Invariably one reads about the necessity to obtain a proper piezoelectric microphone, and a preamplifier to boost the signal enough for the PC. In my case, it turns out that the microphone built into the monitor frame of my laptop is perfect for picking up watch ticking!<br />
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That's the 642 sitting at the top of the monitor frame, next to the webcam. <br />
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I do have to lay it on it's back to do this, but it saves me buying a mic! In this picture, you can also see one of the tools I use, biburo. It used to be available for free download, but now the link is dead.<br />
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Sorry!<br />
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Biburo claims to be able to detect rate, beat error, and amplitude, though in practice it is best used just for rate. I generally ignore the numbers Biburo gives me in any case, and just go by the trace. In a watch that's running at the correct rate, the trace will be a straight horizonal line. The deviation from horizontal indicates the error. If the line tilts down, the watch is running slow. If up, fast. <br />
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Here's the initial trace that this 642 produced:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT9QsT-qTjbq0y8pwNk8i0q9RlkPzwS7vgXo24IsACmV0mu1C7I19kcbps3Cu5s0jrDNRcuJagD1qs_ICnttGEvxkrjiB1Lz-YgnVX_bVOCQsWhz8thaLFhXbtDKmHEzZ3tx9sypFwlq4/s1600/Initial+rate.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="342" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT9QsT-qTjbq0y8pwNk8i0q9RlkPzwS7vgXo24IsACmV0mu1C7I19kcbps3Cu5s0jrDNRcuJagD1qs_ICnttGEvxkrjiB1Lz-YgnVX_bVOCQsWhz8thaLFhXbtDKmHEzZ3tx9sypFwlq4/s640/Initial+rate.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Slow. REALLY slow. About 3 minutes slow/day. Time to adjust it. I like to use a piece of pegwood to move the regulator. You COULD use tweezers, but they're likely to scratch the balance cock.<br />
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Watch the hairspring carefully as you do this. Generally the regulator pins just move along the spring, but sometimes the pins grip the spring too tightly, and it pulls or pushes on the spring itself. You can end up bending the spring if you're not careful! Ask me how I know....<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-KH-jKgcpYJWAsKQrh1mNikLwsP8Zck2lgEs73AVcus_nQWimzwRYFgFjG0SVtNKP9pCa-40qm-urQQ_VBnTIthgwWjw5FIGJH2uYwTScEv7cDfBL9cKXUDmhR1WBbAxyzkVKKqVSrCs/s1600/P6120250.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-KH-jKgcpYJWAsKQrh1mNikLwsP8Zck2lgEs73AVcus_nQWimzwRYFgFjG0SVtNKP9pCa-40qm-urQQ_VBnTIthgwWjw5FIGJH2uYwTScEv7cDfBL9cKXUDmhR1WBbAxyzkVKKqVSrCs/s640/P6120250.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Generally, you don't need to push it very far. Certainly not THIS far! Here's what happened to the rate when I pushed the regulator all the way to the 'Fast' end of the scale:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9CKZDWSTdqwgONGrXA72WY4oW_kItFnxwxihUO_Y7YN1LVFLhfuUqBi4SFh3e2YXvQ90pBBLdNvxg5N6s40qSWcZFZE2p1QDfIXeDYWqtb7QYugSNKE7CV84r0M09wwfvR9PUfJ_yu_U/s1600/first+adjustment.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="342" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9CKZDWSTdqwgONGrXA72WY4oW_kItFnxwxihUO_Y7YN1LVFLhfuUqBi4SFh3e2YXvQ90pBBLdNvxg5N6s40qSWcZFZE2p1QDfIXeDYWqtb7QYugSNKE7CV84r0M09wwfvR9PUfJ_yu_U/s640/first+adjustment.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Now it's too fast! After a few attempts, I got it to this:<br />
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Not perfect, but only a few seconds per day of gain. I decided to stop there.<br />
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Another important point about the trace is that there's a single line, which indicates low beat error. With significant error, there would be two distinct lines.<br />
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Next, to get a more detailed view of how the watch is running, I use <a href="http://www.delphelectronics.co.uk/products.html">eTimer Watch Escapement Analyzer</a> software. There's a freely downloadable software package, in addition to the entire package of the software and the microphone setup. The freeware is limited, and cannot analyze in real time. You need to record the ticking, save it as a .wav file, and analyse the file. This precluded making adjustments on the fly, but it's MUCH cheaper!!<br />
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To record the ticking I use <a href="http://audacity.sourceforge.net/">Audacity</a>, a free audio editing software package. I record for about a minute, after adjusting the position of the watch for the best pickup. This produces a trace like this:<br />
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If you look closely, you'll see a line of regularly-spaced spikes. There should be 5 every second.<br />
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I export the trace as a .wav file. Then I open it in eTimer, and allow the software to run. In this case, it's run for 5 minutes, repeating the same 1 minute recording.<br />
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eTimer shows two ticks per screen, at the rate they occurred in the recording. There are two ticks for each complete back-and-forth swing of the balance, and if the watch is running reasonably well each new tick will replace an old one, and you won't see the waveform trace wandering too much..<br />
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Each tick is composed of 3 components. The first sound is the unlock, when the roller jewel hits the pallet fork, lifting it off the banking pin and unlocking the escape wheel. The last sound is the lock, when the pallet lever hits the other banking pin and the escape wheel locks on the other pallet stone.<br />
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The pink strip emulates the paper on a Tick-O-Print, or similar watch timing machine. There's a dot for each tick, and if the ticks occur perfectly at 1/5 second intervals, it will produce a straight line down the page.<br />
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The circle with lines emulates the Tick-O-Print cursor disk, and is how eTimer determines the rate, by aligning the cursor with the printed line of ticks. In this case, about +6 seconds per day. Ideally, the line would be straight, rather than wandering. The wander suggests an issue with a part that turns with a period of about a minute, so there may be a small issue with the 4th wheel.<br />
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It determines amplitude by measuring the time between the unlock and the lock for each tick. This interval is determined by the angular velocity of the balance as it swings through locking and unlocking. The angular velocity at this point allows the calculation of the amplitude - here about 287 degrees - not bad for a 62 year old, 15 jewel watch!<br />
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It determines beat error based on the difference in the interval for alternate ticks - every other tick is a balance swing in the same direction. Here the beat error is about 1.6 milliseconds. Ideally, it would be under 0.5 ms, but that's for another post!<br />
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I declare this Good Enough! Watches should be allowed to run for at least a day to settle in, distribute oil, etc. before final timing.<br />
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Time to finish putting the watch together. Place the hour wheel over the cannon pinion, and add a dial washer if necessary. Dial washers keep the hour wheel teeth meshed with the minute wheel by gently pushing against the dial. This is not usually a problem with flat dials, but can become severe with curved ones - simply turning the watch dial down may allow the hour wheel to drop out of engagement, and the hour hand will get out of synchronization with the minute hand.<br />
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Then drop the dial onto the movement, making sure the dial feet enter the holes. You may need to back the screws out just a bit. When the dial is fully down, tighten the dial foot screws.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3QQHRczYxhOY9ciKocljLbbyHzBL3e1YrWLESLnG-e1ZoB6aY1XQLCMzMwqT54wJLT0TrVqLYemMt8hqpFkyZFQ4GUyoD2Yf0Bz44PnsC2KqoBJ5QcBfKzNhbI_-JQOwhgTjOvJXUS1A/s1600/P6120252.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3QQHRczYxhOY9ciKocljLbbyHzBL3e1YrWLESLnG-e1ZoB6aY1XQLCMzMwqT54wJLT0TrVqLYemMt8hqpFkyZFQ4GUyoD2Yf0Bz44PnsC2KqoBJ5QcBfKzNhbI_-JQOwhgTjOvJXUS1A/s320/P6120252.JPG" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwWR7RuIOUNQbDtrETLaIkDbgX9Xyyvv2MHspw-nGt_fA-yodbIaPFTrVf1UVap7EnkGUDg1lB8V7hh4Hw-FzIQvuGLAEGZHwuZTdGX8cUZt9Xv0kX8qTOlpfTY4y3KglWhe9y3gWtqXk/s1600/P6120253.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwWR7RuIOUNQbDtrETLaIkDbgX9Xyyvv2MHspw-nGt_fA-yodbIaPFTrVf1UVap7EnkGUDg1lB8V7hh4Hw-FzIQvuGLAEGZHwuZTdGX8cUZt9Xv0kX8qTOlpfTY4y3KglWhe9y3gWtqXk/s320/P6120253.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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Next install the second hand, making sure the pipe goes over the 4th wheel post, and pushing straight down, gently.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2e9pTidqXhlgVkKr_Unbyr5NejHVUEOHow6uN-zLGvI0MRgcLZm4cDWZjg3xkU_2AxLUtZb3kXi4d4NPtShKXlHDtCtbV127wdP1YSbErbiAcECsOAIxQFRguVXsVDOGEpSl8phRaJWM/s1600/P6120254.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2e9pTidqXhlgVkKr_Unbyr5NejHVUEOHow6uN-zLGvI0MRgcLZm4cDWZjg3xkU_2AxLUtZb3kXi4d4NPtShKXlHDtCtbV127wdP1YSbErbiAcECsOAIxQFRguVXsVDOGEpSl8phRaJWM/s640/P6120254.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Now install the hour hand. It fits onto the tube of the hour wheel. To press it on, I use a flat-faced hollow punch from my staking set, with the hole just large enough to go over the cannon pinion but not the hour wheel tube. This will put the hour hand at the top of the tube, so it doesn't drag on the dial, or catch on the second hand.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj43ECirkAMsZqtGD9UKHUtus3_8SoPMIestEcRQgUHyztQyR7ms-V6sOdljtX8_M43u56UQ-CqeCf-OHd8hgN7bJ8cPKvcC8ejf3QCStaT-s9l7yWNztAxLUPARHokZix57_5ekC-tY_Y/s1600/P6120256.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj43ECirkAMsZqtGD9UKHUtus3_8SoPMIestEcRQgUHyztQyR7ms-V6sOdljtX8_M43u56UQ-CqeCf-OHd8hgN7bJ8cPKvcC8ejf3QCStaT-s9l7yWNztAxLUPARHokZix57_5ekC-tY_Y/s320/P6120256.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI63pd_4dY2HPI3b3ctoEWMsl-AhUqLh9jCDGsTxIRqbOYoV8MQFjnrIItbd-KqWsbQHVtCWXaG0I4_J2Jbj2RNL7tSHXKvOISJyfik-UvHHknnyE8yoU2Yn5JDqOo27RBW12Q05iIZn8/s1600/P6120255.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI63pd_4dY2HPI3b3ctoEWMsl-AhUqLh9jCDGsTxIRqbOYoV8MQFjnrIItbd-KqWsbQHVtCWXaG0I4_J2Jbj2RNL7tSHXKvOISJyfik-UvHHknnyE8yoU2Yn5JDqOo27RBW12Q05iIZn8/s320/P6120255.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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Set the hour hand EXACTLY to an hour mark. I prefer to use 3:00 or 9:00, since that gets the hour hand out of the way of the minute hand, and by being at exactly 90 degrees from vertical, is easy to set accurately.<br />
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Place the minute hand on the cannon pinion, pointing exactly at 12:00, and press home with the stake. You should feel a slight snap as the hand fits onto the tip of the cannon pinion.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhYhz9MuAcHu3EepESPXXxfEkqsCjXmm-fpgZAH35G-i0HblqNFuKHjqt-FWKVqFhZRXkBP09gf8YQB1MZIY3eg6ksmeuAf402JGl8fR18BynJvvJSFa9IA8Y0P-x40bF_hmYCziay_Rk/s1600/P6120257.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhYhz9MuAcHu3EepESPXXxfEkqsCjXmm-fpgZAH35G-i0HblqNFuKHjqt-FWKVqFhZRXkBP09gf8YQB1MZIY3eg6ksmeuAf402JGl8fR18BynJvvJSFa9IA8Y0P-x40bF_hmYCziay_Rk/s320/P6120257.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1eVJO7tlA9msmcTtTZQYz7m88-IHo0-JGZRbX4a-ek5SQg2IbRn7ZJ-I9OuY-Dz7Fv6K87YI1uj_duVz3kmpb95qyeg2UXQyRoqQ6EqKlDTMoqXIqQADPnt-Jx-K8O9Z6YqJhFVjlCJo/s1600/P6120258.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1eVJO7tlA9msmcTtTZQYz7m88-IHo0-JGZRbX4a-ek5SQg2IbRn7ZJ-I9OuY-Dz7Fv6K87YI1uj_duVz3kmpb95qyeg2UXQyRoqQ6EqKlDTMoqXIqQADPnt-Jx-K8O9Z6YqJhFVjlCJo/s320/P6120258.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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Now you can set the time! Mind you, that will turn out to be a waste....<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS8fEOLTLbi-jlXQHaZtvAEi2zOApgrLW4jXAJX1vcpVsjN2H3RrvjnQJn14HBs4QKtu7Q-iEJgx6AcbQ7ffiuewwm-Mky7Oaj9Vkr0oyZ58X6hto1ZbpmxLugDLjqpAKigCOK9atNwTo/s1600/P6120260.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS8fEOLTLbi-jlXQHaZtvAEi2zOApgrLW4jXAJX1vcpVsjN2H3RrvjnQJn14HBs4QKtu7Q-iEJgx6AcbQ7ffiuewwm-Mky7Oaj9Vkr0oyZ58X6hto1ZbpmxLugDLjqpAKigCOK9atNwTo/s640/P6120260.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Why? The next step, at least for this watch, is to remove the stem, and the best way to do this so that you can later re-install it with ease is to pull the crown out to setting position. Then, unscrew the setting lever screw just until the stem comes free.<br />
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With the stem removed, carefully lower the movement into place in the case.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHOFMPrIfOutH85ahapSEyC74vOB_X9-_Vqy7WpTOLBRwt4qhThaE4O_W2vtS0QpBsZBUGguDV6trQDvW9rYzOn-FbaFKi6rNOWRWn3KghRjV2oZAUaWF1SglJwmJiBifqrvUlCDxoy44/s1600/P6120262.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHOFMPrIfOutH85ahapSEyC74vOB_X9-_Vqy7WpTOLBRwt4qhThaE4O_W2vtS0QpBsZBUGguDV6trQDvW9rYzOn-FbaFKi6rNOWRWn3KghRjV2oZAUaWF1SglJwmJiBifqrvUlCDxoy44/s320/P6120262.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZzBXmtP3KpHbgpB6Su8fIO9K6NANXVGuqAraJUe39pgrtaI1ArYgY0aC3gvAg9bY9TyNUevluB3gA8K8of0sJYv0_WbB9ljKxTvytKZ1aHjokbty1wTvihqYg34Oq5oxjs30ppwZzkkE/s1600/P6120263.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZzBXmtP3KpHbgpB6Su8fIO9K6NANXVGuqAraJUe39pgrtaI1ArYgY0aC3gvAg9bY9TyNUevluB3gA8K8of0sJYv0_WbB9ljKxTvytKZ1aHjokbty1wTvihqYg34Oq5oxjs30ppwZzkkE/s320/P6120263.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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This watch has a solid spacer ring, with a tab that fits into a notch on the bezel. You can see them in this picture, at about 2:30, or 45 degrees counterclockwise from the hole for the stem.<br />
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Align the ring, and push down till it fits evenly around the movement.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2EpeFeRZYrouWOy6-8XAmZmki6HJmlZ6dLTBVERY0SrxflpbKNno85WV7H0LWo5m8CrV8kgYN5Clyc4BdIDXo1gpTp1Yy_sLI1HbsLELn0XxTjRLCJHuq0dgQ_7wnsPVqKJz81S-gTHk/s1600/P6120264.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2EpeFeRZYrouWOy6-8XAmZmki6HJmlZ6dLTBVERY0SrxflpbKNno85WV7H0LWo5m8CrV8kgYN5Clyc4BdIDXo1gpTp1Yy_sLI1HbsLELn0XxTjRLCJHuq0dgQ_7wnsPVqKJz81S-gTHk/s320/P6120264.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLWySIy4cJl-SRwtEBu3YOuEzMlm97SzSQgzaPD1y0rStT8sXJx23nY5ZZjlDuo369HIb2Nfp9GGNC5PGFrthugj8-3JZj8Dmc6_TWYbrwHXr29Wq8knxqH6A71IPGzeWi0bOGLhPcCwk/s1600/P6120265.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLWySIy4cJl-SRwtEBu3YOuEzMlm97SzSQgzaPD1y0rStT8sXJx23nY5ZZjlDuo369HIb2Nfp9GGNC5PGFrthugj8-3JZj8Dmc6_TWYbrwHXr29Wq8knxqH6A71IPGzeWi0bOGLhPcCwk/s320/P6120265.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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Insert the stem. You may have to wiggle it a bit to align the movement with the ring, and to properly engage the clutch, and get the setting lever engaged in the slot of the stem. Tighten the setting lever screw till it stops, then pull out, push in, and tighten completely - just finger tight.<br />
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Now you can replace the back, making sure the threads engage properly before using much force to tighten it down. Ideally, you'd have a gasket in this watch, but I don't have any. Also ideally you'd use the proper wrench to tighten the caseback, but I don't have one of those, either!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_xY_QaeRR7K4VUmD2CCx6pGQZmwJ2ZZnExeUMB82FmfWtAw0XnjxsP8gax8hp7uQ36pHrQJhrd9cGqEdUbBedVUPFaEea8fVwP76yHP7I0AhVhU7khZza19lLoZbZijxsSazN4rgWrCs/s1600/P6120266.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_xY_QaeRR7K4VUmD2CCx6pGQZmwJ2ZZnExeUMB82FmfWtAw0XnjxsP8gax8hp7uQ36pHrQJhrd9cGqEdUbBedVUPFaEea8fVwP76yHP7I0AhVhU7khZza19lLoZbZijxsSazN4rgWrCs/s320/P6120266.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_XTUfwhe92aDmyzrHgK-cGwpL99ohSBenR3oeoOC3iihf0IUnVaCsD0AuiDxbkSwQg9Qw8ADIcafW2ydQZoN04A9CKYYj3V-dM-1V0kgaCsTDaq2kzu0z3IOsN-KfdOThCG0qjWNHcoU/s1600/P6120267.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_XTUfwhe92aDmyzrHgK-cGwpL99ohSBenR3oeoOC3iihf0IUnVaCsD0AuiDxbkSwQg9Qw8ADIcafW2ydQZoN04A9CKYYj3V-dM-1V0kgaCsTDaq2kzu0z3IOsN-KfdOThCG0qjWNHcoU/s320/P6120267.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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And there you have it - a newly cleaned, lubricated, and regulated Elgin Shockmaster watch! Ready for your wrist!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhom2usQS1kDkvtOcW7ITZuDDSXoWx9vpCQ2gPFi_vpCG7M77ZVhzcsVSYJEKFq3feLajjFLKsE1VcQN2egFripQOFWAAV09Ikw6wkWJCbnwCFewHOWrCMaNZWuh-nSGHOXq0ypc7DBUm4/s1600/P6120268.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhom2usQS1kDkvtOcW7ITZuDDSXoWx9vpCQ2gPFi_vpCG7M77ZVhzcsVSYJEKFq3feLajjFLKsE1VcQN2egFripQOFWAAV09Ikw6wkWJCbnwCFewHOWrCMaNZWuh-nSGHOXq0ypc7DBUm4/s640/P6120268.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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After the watch had been running for several days, I checked the rate
again. It was gaining a bit, so I adjusted it slower, using Biburo.
For a watch you wear every day, you'd observe how it ran on your wrist -
does it gain or lose, and how much? Then you could adjust it on the
bench, using the timer, so that it should come out nearly perfect. Although many collectors are satisfied with a watch that runs "plus or minus a few minutes a day", it's worth remembering that these were made to run within a few seconds a day. <br />
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All together the whole process from arrival to recasing took about 4-5 hours. A pro could do it faster, and a real novice should take longer. Work at a speed you are comfortable with, and don't forget to take breaks for food and rest. And whatever you do, DON'T try to do this when you're tired, hungry, anxious, or too excited! Rested and relaxed is the key.<br />
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By the way, I also cleaned the case and polished the
crystal. I'll cover that sometime in the future. Oh, and I added a
new, and better-fitting bracelet.<br />
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<br />GeneJockeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17161884314264237342noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6738648204942530086.post-24365364880725278332013-06-23T10:28:00.000-07:002013-06-23T17:08:45.058-07:00For A Few Dollars More - Part 4: ReassemblyWith the parts all cleaned, it's time to put it all back together into a working watch!<br />
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First, we need to oil and reassemble the balance jewels. The shock-resistant jewels of the 642 are loose, so it's easy to put them together outside the movement. I forgot to photograph the process with the 642's Incabloc jewels, so I put together a jewel set from a Kif shockproof setting.<br />
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Start by placing a drop of watch oil (I use Elgin M56b) in the center of the cap jewel. Then place the hole jewel and setting on top of it. The oil will then hold the two together, and if you were careful in putting them together, the oil will be nicely centered.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3MfSRuYobJiX1c9Z-kgpu4Fw9jIAuR7I5vKB0NE5xdWNboTMGgWj3zxeJ0Vt10jZG0yMg8zL2IXCN-s6O5SomnnkNdxBQyiKKFLE47-4tmqIRX8Q4Ikb6iru3NLvJCuoyGhDIeTxtp30/s1600/P6060209.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3MfSRuYobJiX1c9Z-kgpu4Fw9jIAuR7I5vKB0NE5xdWNboTMGgWj3zxeJ0Vt10jZG0yMg8zL2IXCN-s6O5SomnnkNdxBQyiKKFLE47-4tmqIRX8Q4Ikb6iru3NLvJCuoyGhDIeTxtp30/s1600/P6060209.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="283" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3MfSRuYobJiX1c9Z-kgpu4Fw9jIAuR7I5vKB0NE5xdWNboTMGgWj3zxeJ0Vt10jZG0yMg8zL2IXCN-s6O5SomnnkNdxBQyiKKFLE47-4tmqIRX8Q4Ikb6iru3NLvJCuoyGhDIeTxtp30/s320/P6060209.JPG" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHqaHPZ4blnpR_VylqIXYKq5B0s3hN3SoFag34W_asxrfz5Zp1WyfWN2l1-me-pCBlKvJIOUPeC-geiTeJXfr2XMNSZEQigzY-UawN9ysTLTD-X8M43XyantTPWQh4Vq7myGymjoX06bo/s1600/P6060210.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="291" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHqaHPZ4blnpR_VylqIXYKq5B0s3hN3SoFag34W_asxrfz5Zp1WyfWN2l1-me-pCBlKvJIOUPeC-geiTeJXfr2XMNSZEQigzY-UawN9ysTLTD-X8M43XyantTPWQh4Vq7myGymjoX06bo/s320/P6060210.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw0JO1SVA6v4asgVOvxuTe3e8ETn_dLHzksZg69XBKnzqsVaisUm9CmKQimTdFGKPsiGZp-XIxkDD9-knSEpzetMfJeTOTnxPbUeKIcbwCAR2DqKLKi4JZQPmvApknUAy6nHw7OF3_MiQ/s1600/P6060212.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="270" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw0JO1SVA6v4asgVOvxuTe3e8ETn_dLHzksZg69XBKnzqsVaisUm9CmKQimTdFGKPsiGZp-XIxkDD9-knSEpzetMfJeTOTnxPbUeKIcbwCAR2DqKLKi4JZQPmvApknUAy6nHw7OF3_MiQ/s320/P6060212.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOlDVcNQ9V-ikbWHW0NNusGZA_fNIeSLx1XqV6ujbrzdU9pAlg7IJC1wGO6N5Jvr1zc9JepgilD-c7_iqDbL_1rdWKX1Ip9igJcvgxcIHG_cLVNIgMX6kS3OjXHP6kkiLzf9eJ3jD2YFA/s1600/P6060213.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="263" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOlDVcNQ9V-ikbWHW0NNusGZA_fNIeSLx1XqV6ujbrzdU9pAlg7IJC1wGO6N5Jvr1zc9JepgilD-c7_iqDbL_1rdWKX1Ip9igJcvgxcIHG_cLVNIgMX6kS3OjXHP6kkiLzf9eJ3jD2YFA/s320/P6060213.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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Next, replace the oiled jewels back in the shockproof settings in the balance cock and pillar plate.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2P7n83bYsrFYG4nntGihD32GOcpDTXjJzBbhzQKxOghmNE8rH-zIhMUt2xuKEn6YKTxcZ71josPAGxTS2Q0hzH0DAPVKzco2z3giPJ7I2qhexpOs90Ogre_L3xcwy6hFxobmS-4H3obY/s1600/P6060204.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2P7n83bYsrFYG4nntGihD32GOcpDTXjJzBbhzQKxOghmNE8rH-zIhMUt2xuKEn6YKTxcZ71josPAGxTS2Q0hzH0DAPVKzco2z3giPJ7I2qhexpOs90Ogre_L3xcwy6hFxobmS-4H3obY/s320/P6060204.JPG" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN9fjYdv_cYYu3uFtCc1S2RcgdpSola_BZpbkmztYK5BNFB4rxg88NOt1mDIpLVIjtiUKl9u-0N4Sw12rn0xvQVYHYWXvPO5nylU9R27_aZgdL_YiprjwT-e2nPR1097VU01yLR4P3YXA/s1600/P6060205.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN9fjYdv_cYYu3uFtCc1S2RcgdpSola_BZpbkmztYK5BNFB4rxg88NOt1mDIpLVIjtiUKl9u-0N4Sw12rn0xvQVYHYWXvPO5nylU9R27_aZgdL_YiprjwT-e2nPR1097VU01yLR4P3YXA/s320/P6060205.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Next, I wind the mainspring into the barrel. Start by hooking the center coil onto the arbor of the winder. Then wind it into the barrel.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAmHrOoZ69Ao8JLyak-iC06SzB3O6NfgUA4ieNjI8jSXZzH58nxYn_pVcI3DTZljpyorflz0OkyOCIxcphWTryUTtMoau30zpnLXiHaD99JUXsgktlaVnm9xZdjTttOoWi3fgvwl5JWY0/s1600/P9011109.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAmHrOoZ69Ao8JLyak-iC06SzB3O6NfgUA4ieNjI8jSXZzH58nxYn_pVcI3DTZljpyorflz0OkyOCIxcphWTryUTtMoau30zpnLXiHaD99JUXsgktlaVnm9xZdjTttOoWi3fgvwl5JWY0/s320/P9011109.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio99hCx1HeMNAbP0W4OBU4p6dwc9A-uoZPsUa7IB6Rg0yIAB17i2zVIIzvNmHYDCxbddEaYX-WjM1bWeM65_Dbr_RyP1THjaNISfwqquOb6YNME4q1R4nuPbgpEySQHu2vBbFtcllh9KM/s1600/P9011108.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio99hCx1HeMNAbP0W4OBU4p6dwc9A-uoZPsUa7IB6Rg0yIAB17i2zVIIzvNmHYDCxbddEaYX-WjM1bWeM65_Dbr_RyP1THjaNISfwqquOb6YNME4q1R4nuPbgpEySQHu2vBbFtcllh9KM/s320/P9011108.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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Leave a little bit of the barrel end of the spring outside to allow you to orient it in the barrel. Unwind the winder arbor, and then turn it backwards just a bit to disengage the mainspring.<br />
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Elgin's 8/0 watches have a 'T' end, which fits into slots in the barrel
floor and the cap. Place the T end in the slot, lower the winder into
the barrel and push on the plunger to insert the spring into the
barrel. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-Ps7CLfvzGrkbxZ02P5mmszbzOBtahAiiWLGJVxViY6rbtoL2rNhvX0N0wmMK_Iqws-MYaDQ9d00ny11Oaf6mh60hW5VaflmQVPlEoWdNH6fIFlcuInQNXUaGkSGUEgX4TwIqn6qghnA/s1600/P9011110.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-Ps7CLfvzGrkbxZ02P5mmszbzOBtahAiiWLGJVxViY6rbtoL2rNhvX0N0wmMK_Iqws-MYaDQ9d00ny11Oaf6mh60hW5VaflmQVPlEoWdNH6fIFlcuInQNXUaGkSGUEgX4TwIqn6qghnA/s320/P9011110.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj15PwsUL09mq9PcB9HuErwaA3TX8Ap5bmY086UkMUQrCX-kge07xWugIb62a2tXQ-yUItMIUmhCmO7dV3stHkMFwTcdSQz4LBb2vx7pZAvv9whFrlTxgiJV4tM0mf4g-VAKtZV0QWRqk/s1600/P6130274.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj15PwsUL09mq9PcB9HuErwaA3TX8Ap5bmY086UkMUQrCX-kge07xWugIb62a2tXQ-yUItMIUmhCmO7dV3stHkMFwTcdSQz4LBb2vx7pZAvv9whFrlTxgiJV4tM0mf4g-VAKtZV0QWRqk/s320/P6130274.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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With the spring in the barrel, add a few drops of heavy clock oil to the coils, insert the barrel arbor, CAREFULLY - again, the spring will try to throw it! Turn the arbor to engage hook on the arbor with the hole in the end of the spring.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEializSxxRIERfrhi3VgWEIUebhkJwDdhqrWE_e6cut4iQlJf1CIXfK5sL7SYcbiAlKBdgUOeHxlDtrWe7cB1BqQg2RFQeo8hRWkwzUbHq9RQicwJiZciokwHfxO-sxUDH-jUUxLixClNU/s1600/P6060215.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEializSxxRIERfrhi3VgWEIUebhkJwDdhqrWE_e6cut4iQlJf1CIXfK5sL7SYcbiAlKBdgUOeHxlDtrWe7cB1BqQg2RFQeo8hRWkwzUbHq9RQicwJiZciokwHfxO-sxUDH-jUUxLixClNU/s320/P6060215.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-FomnSWZYZ0_ALLMSXv24UImce5uZFIw45A-v9DI9tNUyHWDxzsTYMvaEB1Sot7yYKCPct1_9G_FwNwGoxkeKOxLMmLAVZBemE_LRYrk2_7DvFrXzbq8DiX9pOex9TfL2_qIh-zXblts/s1600/P6060214.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-FomnSWZYZ0_ALLMSXv24UImce5uZFIw45A-v9DI9tNUyHWDxzsTYMvaEB1Sot7yYKCPct1_9G_FwNwGoxkeKOxLMmLAVZBemE_LRYrk2_7DvFrXzbq8DiX9pOex9TfL2_qIh-zXblts/s320/P6060214.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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Next, put on the barrel cap, lining the slot up with the T-end of the mainspring. Oil the barrel arbor where it exits the barrel, top and bottom.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3Q-0eVWY6URp5Vvsj_boGGyDw-PtaulHSYGkop3PUDzXNKg9BCS3hfX3eew-WBX8AAHE3UqRhyphenhyphenff6GbEz6DS41_uMeni0RgoQFLWC9JfosQjo9zUvH_FHEbOK7FDH61TukUsz5fTcSO4/s1600/P6060218.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3Q-0eVWY6URp5Vvsj_boGGyDw-PtaulHSYGkop3PUDzXNKg9BCS3hfX3eew-WBX8AAHE3UqRhyphenhyphenff6GbEz6DS41_uMeni0RgoQFLWC9JfosQjo9zUvH_FHEbOK7FDH61TukUsz5fTcSO4/s320/P6060218.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVFa2GJcDoeSwvA2B73ipwCRTf9ZpoTtcisSIXc8bF5kD8lilceDEphyvXhYRSFTzUQp41gv1__Fs0QyvUtUrQJ3v1phvzYYXJIDWvBs42nczQ2ESMge9T16c6qcHTlnlB1x3XRdUjkAw/s1600/P6060216.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVFa2GJcDoeSwvA2B73ipwCRTf9ZpoTtcisSIXc8bF5kD8lilceDEphyvXhYRSFTzUQp41gv1__Fs0QyvUtUrQJ3v1phvzYYXJIDWvBs42nczQ2ESMge9T16c6qcHTlnlB1x3XRdUjkAw/s320/P6060216.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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Now we're ready to put it back together. Lightly grease the sides of the setting lever screw and insert it, and place the barrel in its recess in the pillar plate.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi80rUGQFkVlBt8GAFVtWT55l4U3d-l55zWFy07CWrHmfEUkL508m7iEC6N82nCxKLddO6jKFMED9pC3-_2OjsMhIf-pf3_qewfwwnFxuE_cK81hhP2r0Aghyw5OZpobq-rXjD8-6K1TyA/s1600/P6060220.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi80rUGQFkVlBt8GAFVtWT55l4U3d-l55zWFy07CWrHmfEUkL508m7iEC6N82nCxKLddO6jKFMED9pC3-_2OjsMhIf-pf3_qewfwwnFxuE_cK81hhP2r0Aghyw5OZpobq-rXjD8-6K1TyA/s640/P6060220.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Starting with the escape wheel, carefully place the train wheels in their jewels.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMgX6n2Rk8nT8uxV_p_aOrI1ruQIJDR6lCXqVUOsocEUJucuXRwuJSlk3o8mHyknWAPtLzCSpvw7jZ79Foo72Ot5KcmmKr3tiW_cIvc8XP3FUFYCvm9OYo_9aRhCrJyqWjuhFWavhaFBI/s1600/P6060221.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMgX6n2Rk8nT8uxV_p_aOrI1ruQIJDR6lCXqVUOsocEUJucuXRwuJSlk3o8mHyknWAPtLzCSpvw7jZ79Foo72Ot5KcmmKr3tiW_cIvc8XP3FUFYCvm9OYo_9aRhCrJyqWjuhFWavhaFBI/s320/P6060221.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMI827EhWPIOJXbVinqglGvrzvW89HPSen1HUtuUrIiX-8SCVFfzk0_3DmMQz-ffMJ1eoUlXRRjqCKj3U4f7mazj2L8826wVna35q_fn2olQpGedDcUZZxIfQqbVWBZY5ubszhQQwzWNU/s1600/P6060222.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMI827EhWPIOJXbVinqglGvrzvW89HPSen1HUtuUrIiX-8SCVFfzk0_3DmMQz-ffMJ1eoUlXRRjqCKj3U4f7mazj2L8826wVna35q_fn2olQpGedDcUZZxIfQqbVWBZY5ubszhQQwzWNU/s320/P6060222.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9UNSKwGkYmYE89HZ8FNgiJAzOGHG7BSz68rxVm6uXVBqTnesW9aXm992y22NcGO5u4jFhIZ-5kIwG89FHEMD1a2dBihf0_739ZwOcAIN1JW7qCibSJYCIptWLQT6dPcp3VwKTIBXfKt0/s1600/P6060223.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9UNSKwGkYmYE89HZ8FNgiJAzOGHG7BSz68rxVm6uXVBqTnesW9aXm992y22NcGO5u4jFhIZ-5kIwG89FHEMD1a2dBihf0_739ZwOcAIN1JW7qCibSJYCIptWLQT6dPcp3VwKTIBXfKt0/s320/P6060223.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_qy3of4uVvRPphJ8VZiVlrDqpXAdIKrS1DkPtCWt5W4Jku01VFnhYkK15Oref2zKW2J_XHLqp_hSQNWGJ3DxO90vuJ2nE8YU8j_OFTNF7BAfkX-WMjxgXZC1jMcxJsfFNsNj63Opl8Ow/s1600/P6060224.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_qy3of4uVvRPphJ8VZiVlrDqpXAdIKrS1DkPtCWt5W4Jku01VFnhYkK15Oref2zKW2J_XHLqp_hSQNWGJ3DxO90vuJ2nE8YU8j_OFTNF7BAfkX-WMjxgXZC1jMcxJsfFNsNj63Opl8Ow/s320/P6060224.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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Install the barrel bridge, making sure you see the pivots of the center and 3rd wheels, and screw down. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-jKmfE4NphtJNxjr0dxwrGG6Qq0EZfb4nvRjmX-OTCEqveUJLkwjPI4gRAd0V_3fF6k2qwoCfH_IVK_-dubzCDejds1zxOM-Y5pjMPxMjKUMH9nf1_DgkOYFuAiCFH7PReRiW1jXyeyY/s1600/P6060226.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-jKmfE4NphtJNxjr0dxwrGG6Qq0EZfb4nvRjmX-OTCEqveUJLkwjPI4gRAd0V_3fF6k2qwoCfH_IVK_-dubzCDejds1zxOM-Y5pjMPxMjKUMH9nf1_DgkOYFuAiCFH7PReRiW1jXyeyY/s640/P6060226.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Next, install the train bridge. This is trickier. Often the 4th wheel pivot will drop into place, but the escape wheel pivot will need to be worked around until it is in the hole. At that point, the whole bridge often drops into place. Before screwing it down, spin the center wheel and observe the other wheels of the train, especially the escape wheel. It should spin smoothly for some time, slowing to a stop. Screw the bridge down, checking the spin of the train again.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7m7oK0ifZCqWkbkqaFD-xWM5-inStjWFpNH5jhZaWQyCrtkEX5PDFXXX1bA0vorypAURgGg7nQ5yaVMf1F8gzd44YJZaImbSs9SMbgJSXpqZRv-3FDa0GDbYFmT7WKXIYENffGR_IGAo/s1600/P6060228.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7m7oK0ifZCqWkbkqaFD-xWM5-inStjWFpNH5jhZaWQyCrtkEX5PDFXXX1bA0vorypAURgGg7nQ5yaVMf1F8gzd44YJZaImbSs9SMbgJSXpqZRv-3FDa0GDbYFmT7WKXIYENffGR_IGAo/s640/P6060228.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
Oil the barrel arbor shoulders with two drops of Clock Oil, one on each side of the arbor.<br />
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At this point, I like to install the Crown and Ratchet wheels, and the click. Start by greasing the area where the crown wheel rubs - this will be obvious on any movement that got much use! Also rub a little grease on the click post. On an 8/0 or 15/0 Elgin, you need to install the click spring before the ratchet wheel. Be careful doing this because the spring will try to escape. Hold the long end in a nice sturdy set of tweezers (I'm using #3s), and use either pegwood or another tweezer to push the 'shepherd's crook' end into the recesses.<br />
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Once it's in place, you can install the ratchet wheel. Make sure the square hole engages the square post on the barrel arbor! <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB3jTaVvHR-cYd5e2I4_APvvDInnNfKF22X4iEZSqRRd1s9-DP_4ZKlbXAUp7ZP9GrjThXkKWGPDfgnkFXeowM9WpPta1GMFQ7eOzZhKowZnADN_o4A2Gy_r9IeRAy6ugU8QJRwqg5lcs/s1600/P6060229.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB3jTaVvHR-cYd5e2I4_APvvDInnNfKF22X4iEZSqRRd1s9-DP_4ZKlbXAUp7ZP9GrjThXkKWGPDfgnkFXeowM9WpPta1GMFQ7eOzZhKowZnADN_o4A2Gy_r9IeRAy6ugU8QJRwqg5lcs/s320/P6060229.JPG" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRzje0RzL3Zl4V8XSfNGCdWb9z5SehOXH7kan-JTjBK0Ajgl8pVG0t8ojjRYZoLTKxg-7vxQd3hAhWiAfzzwetYbovN3TSEFbk2JrvsphBy3SDITT7npSsLC2eCB642dZ6UUy2xWlnMYU/s1600/P6060230.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRzje0RzL3Zl4V8XSfNGCdWb9z5SehOXH7kan-JTjBK0Ajgl8pVG0t8ojjRYZoLTKxg-7vxQd3hAhWiAfzzwetYbovN3TSEFbk2JrvsphBy3SDITT7npSsLC2eCB642dZ6UUy2xWlnMYU/s320/P6060230.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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Screw down the ratchet wheel screw,add the click and screw it down, making sure the end of the click spring falls between the two teeth of the click. Place the crown wheel, and grease the bearing surface where the crown wheel bushing rubs. Place the bushing, then screw down the crown wheel screw - COUNTERCLOCKWISE!!!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhgxK7Xfud3ah8GjYwU6B2Qr3b-tucOXOQ2gcwjFQVC-gBDZNjEZilMCwEvalSkk46YqHIM0tb13Z9SJ-HevY6N8R0i-59ta2PI5l2J7zyTdk0rlKjjUCj-rcv7G7CzDZ5ma89a1oMhAM/s1600/P6060231.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhgxK7Xfud3ah8GjYwU6B2Qr3b-tucOXOQ2gcwjFQVC-gBDZNjEZilMCwEvalSkk46YqHIM0tb13Z9SJ-HevY6N8R0i-59ta2PI5l2J7zyTdk0rlKjjUCj-rcv7G7CzDZ5ma89a1oMhAM/s320/P6060231.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Now it's time to oil the lower pivots, and install the keyless works on the dial side. Oil the lower barrel arbor pivot with Clock Oil on the second smallest oiler. Then, using the smallest oiler, touch the oiler into your watch oil, then touch the tip to the junction of the pivot and the jewel, so the oil goes only into the bearing surface, and not outside the oil cup. In the loupe, you should be able to see the oil at the interface between the pivot and the jewel, but not in excess.<br />
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Finally, wipe some watch oil on the center wheel post to lubricate the cannon pinion, and install the cannon pinion. Some folks wait till later to add the cannon pinion, but if you do it before installing the dial train and keyless works, you won't have to worry about aligning the teeth of the minute wheel with the cannon pinion and possibly crushing them. This could cause the watch to stop at intervals. The cannon pinion should snap onto the post with a light pressure. If it just slides on with no resistance, it probably needs tightening. If it takes too much pressure, you risk driving out the upper center wheel jewel if you push too hard!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIXi1yyXoqg2LL5rYasGOJ4I1HVZkgx6mwhAYtpTjoPN7IMoX0Q_18180srvMo6G4eF1JIeEdcfzuIyKpy2y7yB3WkI6uZo21FBJt8kkBQ1j93R2uFaUTjKcktPqv2CVA5iGTUHYH7hLQ/s1600/P6060232.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIXi1yyXoqg2LL5rYasGOJ4I1HVZkgx6mwhAYtpTjoPN7IMoX0Q_18180srvMo6G4eF1JIeEdcfzuIyKpy2y7yB3WkI6uZo21FBJt8kkBQ1j93R2uFaUTjKcktPqv2CVA5iGTUHYH7hLQ/s320/P6060232.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWG_sE6fJ9b80X7aDIJKk51pIeN_tjIs2w_PWcEIK7kZmy2yFjUyrbIBruU19TKiiMu04NmT3k60IKoNRzk6XvRdNvbT7QJw_pSkiBAMOGPLnM56SSptLoWnDIn9neGjXfQTRbVvE2xlc/s1600/P6060233.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWG_sE6fJ9b80X7aDIJKk51pIeN_tjIs2w_PWcEIK7kZmy2yFjUyrbIBruU19TKiiMu04NmT3k60IKoNRzk6XvRdNvbT7QJw_pSkiBAMOGPLnM56SSptLoWnDIn9neGjXfQTRbVvE2xlc/s320/P6060233.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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Next, install the clutch lever spring, again taking care to hold it with tweezers while pushing the loop into place over the post with pegwood or another tweezer.<br />
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Now install the setting lever, after greasing it where it engages the slot in the stem, and where it rubs on the clutch lever. Place it on the tip of the setting lever screw, then turn the screw until it has threaded and is pulling the setting lever down.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRLl3WCkZEFBLKCnPOoNUrq0oVZdusUKyXew0gAFNuozusi5skhg-hF5Dw3AF0dq43QnEgXTJCzB8w1MCDIRrrWhz2lEVKutK7W8p4ea1e5N-Z_fIaYDJpmjI1M-BD4cfwPDv4XvKwSzY/s1600/P6060234.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRLl3WCkZEFBLKCnPOoNUrq0oVZdusUKyXew0gAFNuozusi5skhg-hF5Dw3AF0dq43QnEgXTJCzB8w1MCDIRrrWhz2lEVKutK7W8p4ea1e5N-Z_fIaYDJpmjI1M-BD4cfwPDv4XvKwSzY/s320/P6060234.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaJnKJeC-fgRlSVjtHIMf6ovBwC2dEe03gYUsinA2_3jKBUBsJ8bW_nzQh13FoebYaKKDiS5z9K9SXkO3wVQv3TaGOi21GCvdllnrtZYlyZP9XfAy1ifEdfM1XIe5fhOxoiiGLrnncTx4/s1600/P6060235.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaJnKJeC-fgRlSVjtHIMf6ovBwC2dEe03gYUsinA2_3jKBUBsJ8bW_nzQh13FoebYaKKDiS5z9K9SXkO3wVQv3TaGOi21GCvdllnrtZYlyZP9XfAy1ifEdfM1XIe5fhOxoiiGLrnncTx4/s320/P6060235.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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Grease the slot on the clutch lever, and the clutch teeth that engage the bevel pinion.<br />
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Now install the bevel pinion, clutch, and the dial train. Elgin says NOT to lubricate the minute wheel or setting wheel.<br />
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Grease the clutch lever post on the minute wheel clamp, and the post on the setting lever that the minute wheel clamp spring engages. Place the clutch lever on the post, then install the minute wheel clamp.<br />
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This step requires careful fiddling. You need to get the clutch lever tip engaged in the slot on the clutch; the clutch lever spring out from under the clutch lever and pushing the clutch lever toward the setting lever, the tip of the setting lever engaged in the notch in the clutch lever, and the minute wheel clamp spring engaging the setting lever post.<br />
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Sorry, no pictures! You'll have to figure it out! Just work carefully, and when everything is in place, the minute wheel clamp will drop into place, and the clutch lever and the clutch will work up and down easily. Add the two minute wheel screws and tighten them down.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiolsF5lpcXNyra2Mx0f-hyzdLB-BZYUcov30QArbKN45u5T-eeiREp1FZ1xX0czuKBT4pnL-194NFJBbq4HZqL-T8C5OjQCYbsiXjGoukEEDMc-LUOJVCNCqx255KlldlSA6KffcYxUm0/s1600/P6060236.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiolsF5lpcXNyra2Mx0f-hyzdLB-BZYUcov30QArbKN45u5T-eeiREp1FZ1xX0czuKBT4pnL-194NFJBbq4HZqL-T8C5OjQCYbsiXjGoukEEDMc-LUOJVCNCqx255KlldlSA6KffcYxUm0/s320/P6060236.JPG" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc9Wb_h4fonI8483HuRCM1N9tIF3DvhyphenhyphenvzEaEsArzFEzM56PXZuY3Yx1n-x4L8w3Pl3FpYgXVFQjkBlBiCsOCFPQyvWLCTL_s9dwFvrduYsHWlnSFLwBPHIBZ_1WK2F99MIuXvAoWbDSw/s1600/P6060237.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc9Wb_h4fonI8483HuRCM1N9tIF3DvhyphenhyphenvzEaEsArzFEzM56PXZuY3Yx1n-x4L8w3Pl3FpYgXVFQjkBlBiCsOCFPQyvWLCTL_s9dwFvrduYsHWlnSFLwBPHIBZ_1WK2F99MIuXvAoWbDSw/s320/P6060237.JPG" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnCGbZxDb2MS73__eoHK2-ukDd-BpDrs6Pq6slGGqAEUnlaX-St-ANeHq1Vcz4dNXWe-dcOWdBv9By4lEh6HTI3PMn6GOdfuOObJONYNKbLt2PJCniCdtsmU60Hscg9TVvhKZu3f4Oc-c/s1600/P6060238.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnCGbZxDb2MS73__eoHK2-ukDd-BpDrs6Pq6slGGqAEUnlaX-St-ANeHq1Vcz4dNXWe-dcOWdBv9By4lEh6HTI3PMn6GOdfuOObJONYNKbLt2PJCniCdtsmU60Hscg9TVvhKZu3f4Oc-c/s320/P6060238.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Inserting the stem can help keep the clutch in place while you place the clutch lever. First, though, the stem must be greased on the tip where it enters the pillar plate, the flats where the clutch slides, and the bearing surfaces where the bevel pinion and setting lever tip engage the stem. Tighten down the setting lever screw went the setting lever is in the slot. Push and pull the crown several times, and turn the crown to test the setting and winding modes.<br />
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Now flip the watch over in the holder, and oil the upper pivots with Watch Oil. Note that the oiler touches only the center of the jewel.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFBf1QJfRJRMwihSRju_DqRaLFchFkAWKkbDinQPp1VqDKASxvLPxH-wa2OKQesgWLqx3RrSrVw0xhtzj8St65k7_5PqsdQECCEl0YAyy8QUffJ-ocLWeXwP6KtpViSrPe92V6ozKFjoU/s1600/P6060239.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFBf1QJfRJRMwihSRju_DqRaLFchFkAWKkbDinQPp1VqDKASxvLPxH-wa2OKQesgWLqx3RrSrVw0xhtzj8St65k7_5PqsdQECCEl0YAyy8QUffJ-ocLWeXwP6KtpViSrPe92V6ozKFjoU/s640/P6060239.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
With the crown, wind it up just a few clicks. The train should spin smoothly, come to a stop, then spin backwards for a bit. The momentum of the smoothly-running train will carry it past fully unwinding, and this will cause the train to spin backwards to a stop. This is called 'backlash'.<br />
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If you don't get backlash, I hate to say this, but you'll need to address this before proceeding. It may even mean cleaning the whole thing again!<br />
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If the escape wheel teeth are not accessible when the watch is fully assembled, as on Elgin 8/0 movements, I oil 3-5 teeth of the escape wheel, on the impulse surfaces only, with Moebius 9415.<br />
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Now add the pallet. Check to make sure the lower pivot is in the jewel by gently attempting to move it side to side. Then place the pallet bridge. Be very careful to ensure the upper pivot is in the jewel before screwing the bridge down. This may take some fiddling - it always does for me!! Ever so gently, manipulate the fork end of the pallet while applying GENTLE pressure to the bridge. When the pivots are in place, the bridge unmistakeably drops into place.<br />
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Check for the glint of the pivot in the jewel hole before gently pushing the bridge down into place. This way, the screw should encounter no resistance until it bottoms out in the hole. Once this is done, check the pallet for freedom of motion, and wind the watch up just a bit.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOdWOw9qTVZoqFfICYzaQpJGv6bEgWakHYfxhSv2_ub3emn6elW5Reh0lxoa0LMDBCklGiS5lGn9pIB3hwLupBhZkb6K0tBZ_XmWjegYN1UTPaV1ekhFJRKvrWd_n4n1gmqJJwOAfdC7w/s1600/P6060241.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOdWOw9qTVZoqFfICYzaQpJGv6bEgWakHYfxhSv2_ub3emn6elW5Reh0lxoa0LMDBCklGiS5lGn9pIB3hwLupBhZkb6K0tBZ_XmWjegYN1UTPaV1ekhFJRKvrWd_n4n1gmqJJwOAfdC7w/s320/P6060241.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7JcbM_g8UXWAW-KI1P7QDzJWxmN_XFNi0Rn_DCnPDiETI8oHd0E_HyX0MYNn-aufiAox-UF23L-KA98v8RxI-rtEBYYDrC4MgvQGa8zOtbxYfPmhwWULPIfz5PIH4dgZzJXchsiXn0-8/s1600/P6060242.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7JcbM_g8UXWAW-KI1P7QDzJWxmN_XFNi0Rn_DCnPDiETI8oHd0E_HyX0MYNn-aufiAox-UF23L-KA98v8RxI-rtEBYYDrC4MgvQGa8zOtbxYfPmhwWULPIfz5PIH4dgZzJXchsiXn0-8/s320/P6060242.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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Next, I turn the balance cock upside down and place it on my bench block, and lower the balance - roller side up - into place, with the pivot in the jewel and the stud in the hole. I gently push the stud all the way down, assuming it hasn't dropped in already, and tighten the stud screw.<br />
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Holding the balance cock in the tweezers, I flip it over. Check whether the hairspring falls between the regulator pins. If not, you may have to re-do installing the balance in the cock, or sometimes it's just a matter of gently moving the hairspring over into place. Remember it's fragile, and it is what determines how accurately your watch will run!<br />
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Now I lower it into the movement. Getting the roller on the right side of the fork is tricky, and different folks have different approaches. I like to flick the fork over to the inside banking pin, and bring the balance in with the cock rotated clockwise away from it. This places the roller to the right of the fork. Once the lower pivot is in place, I rotate the balance cock counterclockwise while lowering it into place. The roller goes right in.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdUhr7Jncxs4jYdTr2HvXncL5eI50jMnvhnjddEQPdw8hfYP8DTOcFUOZ9zwzVWaIWmeWHJ1E3qjWo3Nc2Ve_85bvz3SEd5qPu_JU_PbOzR9ak4r1pAsKFSdavmYUyGNcNVZlPbyGqbzI/s1600/P6060243.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdUhr7Jncxs4jYdTr2HvXncL5eI50jMnvhnjddEQPdw8hfYP8DTOcFUOZ9zwzVWaIWmeWHJ1E3qjWo3Nc2Ve_85bvz3SEd5qPu_JU_PbOzR9ak4r1pAsKFSdavmYUyGNcNVZlPbyGqbzI/s320/P6060243.JPG" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbcVVMFsFo9j8h0JyuhNQy2tkh9goxaJxOFL0U2M1N_ofOkjN0K6hR6RYSdtvJY9dgxFUtxYFyHyiedLeiuXOPbIyA4cF5kXHZJbe3gWlMxq93-MN6yR9618NSFyAc7AxpdU_vGoUSWNk/s1600/P6200300.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbcVVMFsFo9j8h0JyuhNQy2tkh9goxaJxOFL0U2M1N_ofOkjN0K6hR6RYSdtvJY9dgxFUtxYFyHyiedLeiuXOPbIyA4cF5kXHZJbe3gWlMxq93-MN6yR9618NSFyAc7AxpdU_vGoUSWNk/s320/P6200300.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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If you've done it right, and if the balance is anywhere near being in beat, it should start running. Gently work the balance cock down into place, making sure the balance keeps turning. This will ensure that the upper pivot is going into the hole jewel. If it stops turning, stop pushing, and gently flick the wheel to start it again. If it keeps turning, keep going. If not, back up, and try again. Generally, it's easier than it sounds here!<br />
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Once the balance cock is all the way down, with the balance still turning, insert the screw and slowly tighten it down. The balance should be turning the whole time, and when you're finished, should keep turning.<br />
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Now that it's put together and running, slowly wind it up to full strength, and note how much amplitude you have. It's hard to tell in actual degrees by eye, without experience, but after a few, you'll have a pretty good idea what constitutes good balance motion.<br />
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This is also a good time to observe whether the balance is running true in both the flat and the round. That is, viewed from above, does the balance appear to wobble side to side; viewed from the side, does the rim appear to wobble up and down?<br />
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Observe the 'breathing' of the hairspring. Does it expand and contract evenly? Or is it pushed off to one side? If that's the case, you may need to adjust it. That is beyond the scope of this blog. Before attempting to adjust a hairspring, you need to read up on it, in Fried's "Watch Repairer's Manual" or in the section on Hairsprings in the TM9-1575 Technical Manual, or in another book on watchmaking. If you don't feel confident of your ability to do it without damaging the hairspring, just let down the power and put this one aside till you're ready.<br />
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Now that the movement is clean, lubed, and running, the next stage is regulation and casing. That will be the next post!<br />
<br />GeneJockeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17161884314264237342noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6738648204942530086.post-8966145509766840642013-06-16T17:45:00.000-07:002013-06-16T17:45:20.147-07:00Elgin's Swiss AutomaticsAs I've noted elsewhere, Elgin's Bumper automatics were already obsolete by the time they were introduced in 1950. By this time, the Swiss were already making smaller automatic watches with 360 degree rotors. The 607 and 618 were large, literally clunky, and though I have no data to prove it, I suspect they did not sell as well as Elgin hoped. In 1953, Elgin introduced the first Elgin watches with imported movements.<br />
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Elgin created a booklet for their jewelers, explaining the change as a result of the dedication of Elgin's resources to defense efforts, which they claimed was using up all their R&D efforts.<br />
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Elgin claimed that although these movements were imported, they'd been upgraded to Elgin's standards. Indeed, although the movements were largely off-the-shelf A. Schild movements, at first there were a significant number of parts that were exclusive to Elgin. No, not just the rotors! <br />
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Elgin claimed they were '<i>Lord Elgin</i>' quality, built and timed to that standard. Looking at the ad, you can see they certainly priced them like Lord Elgins! The $71.50 for the Shipmate was the same price as the <i>Lord Elgin</i> Clubman! That's about $625 in today's money, a substantial sum!<br />
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The first three movements to be imported were the 643, 644, and 645. The 643 was a 5/0 (11 1/2 ligne) movement with directly-driven sweep second hand. The 644 and 645 were 11/0 (9 3/4 ligne) movements. The 645 had an indirectly-driven sweep second hand, while the 644 had a subsidiary seconds hand - an oddity for automatics, but sometimes seen on automatics in the 1940s and 1950s.</div>
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This week, I finally completed my collection of the first 3 imported movements. </div>
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If you check out ad, you'll see the one on the left is a 'Shipmate', and the one on the Right is a 'Windsor'. Note also that the Shipmate and Windsor are labeled 'Elgin Automatic', while the middle watch is labeled 'Self-Winding'. The original 607/618 Bumpers were also labeled 'Automatic', and the watches in the introductory ad are also labeled 'Automatic'. Presumably Elgin later started labeling them 'Self-Winding'<br />
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The movements in these three, from left to right, are a 643, 644, and 645. See below!<br />
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By 1958, only 5 years later, Elgin was importing a larger range of movements with fewer and fewer 'Elgin-specific' parts. From 1953, until the introduction of the 760/761 Durabalance automatics in 1960, all Self-Winding Elgins were imported. By that time, Elgin wasn't even making any men's movements with fewer than 19 jewels. 17 jewel watches were all imports, which had started with the 'Elgin Sportsman' series, introduced as a bargain line. <br />
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The writing was on the wall. Elgin could not produce watches in America that competed with the cheap Swiss imports, and as if that weren't bad enough, Timex had sufficiently improved on the old 'Dollar Watch' that it was now a reliable, accurate timepiece that cost about 1/4 the price of the cheapest American-built Elgin. <br />
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Elgin was also unable to compete at the top end of the market. Elgin had never had the prestige that Hamilton had, and Hamilton was already losing out to the even more prestigious Swiss makers - Omega, Rolex, IWC and others. Elgin was rapidly being squeezed out of the market entirely.<br />
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Over the next four years, Elgin continued importing more and more movements - manual wind, self winding, calendar watches, even an alarm watch. In 1964 Elgin stopped making movements in America altogether, closed down the Elgin IL factory and move to South Carolina, where a town had obligingly renamed itself 'Elgin'. Elgin watches were now all imported movements, cased here in America, but by 1969 even that business had failed.<br />
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Though they're arguably a dark piece of Elgin's history - the first hint of surrender to the inevitable - still Elgin had tried to make these imported movements into real Elgins, and I'm happy to have them in my collection. <br />
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GeneJockeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17161884314264237342noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6738648204942530086.post-15755707979528378922013-06-16T13:43:00.000-07:002013-06-23T16:51:13.097-07:00For A Few Dollars More - Part 3: CleaningOnce a movement has been taken apart, it's ready to be cleaned. While modern professional watchmakers use ultrasonic cleaners that run automatically, it's also possible to clean the parts by hand. The Army put out a Technical Manual in 1945, TM9-1575, which describes stringing the plates and bridges of a watch on dip wires, which are then dipped into the cleaning solution, and sloshed around. When I started working on watches, I used to put the pieces in two tea strainers - one with somewhat coarse joints for the plates and bridges, and a finer one for the small parts. I still ended up having to carefully pick small parts like unset cap jewels and small springs off the edges of the wet basket!<br />
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Although the Technical Manual describes a 'homemade' solution for watch cleaning, it is water-based, and since many parts of a watch are polished steel, NOT stainless, rigorous attention must be paid to rinsing in an organic solvent that will displace the water, and then to thorough drying. I took advantage of large, fan-driven incubators at work to dry watch parts after they'd been carefully laid out on paper in improvised trays.<br />
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Last year, I was able to obtain a L&R Master watch cleaning machine, with 3 jars, which needed only to have one wire resoldered, and a new light bulb to work. It has made the whole process much better! More on that in a bit.<br />
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First, if you recall, I'd discovered that the center wheel bushing in the barrel bridge was worn. A professional watchmaker would be able to press out the old bushing and press in a new one, all in a few minutes. Since I don't have a jewel press, I must make do.<br />
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I have a supply of parts movements, but none of them is a 642. However, the 554 is nearly identical, using nearly all the same parts. I checked in the Elgin Manual to see if any of the different parts were likely to cause problems. One that gave me pause was that the 642 uses a different barrel and barrel cap than the 554 - odd, since it uses the same barrel arbor and mainspring! I was concerned that the barrel might be bigger in the 642, and if so, the barrel bridge from a 554 might not fit. So, I carefully measured the height and diameter of the barrels of both the 642, and a 554 I'd previously disassembled, using a digital micrometer. They are the same.<br />
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WHEW!!<br />
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So, I looked through my parts movements till I found a 554 with a good center wheel bushing, then stole the barrel bridge.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5K5GXHDwJKgwcI9zR00psCHeInUcuXpu2XYAbDdmC2SYNzN5y_lRf4aFKtJtWcPW-0kfru2YF0EiN-mK2YKDC9X-YmOKx3H8j_hRBhZcFJkzphAQ4JX-YHx1BWveKbVPY-OKuuxe28wI/s1600/P6060183.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5K5GXHDwJKgwcI9zR00psCHeInUcuXpu2XYAbDdmC2SYNzN5y_lRf4aFKtJtWcPW-0kfru2YF0EiN-mK2YKDC9X-YmOKx3H8j_hRBhZcFJkzphAQ4JX-YHx1BWveKbVPY-OKuuxe28wI/s320/P6060183.JPG" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi674z3L1mnEoaEczuq_vecAR3lZd31b5_MkOuhwdeZ_lo59D8MR3-SISdqG7zIRsZCIYHGKj_sJVZYQXMtaCdRvcKLHxsiuOLO5dBeAOIju2CQetpyQpFRKZZdDfqoxxcFhF8ei6xwk8Y/s1600/P6060182.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi674z3L1mnEoaEczuq_vecAR3lZd31b5_MkOuhwdeZ_lo59D8MR3-SISdqG7zIRsZCIYHGKj_sJVZYQXMtaCdRvcKLHxsiuOLO5dBeAOIju2CQetpyQpFRKZZdDfqoxxcFhF8ei6xwk8Y/s320/P6060182.JPG" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy7-ibDRqRIcES_OAazC8Bnv1G2BNHcVHF59yTeDOAqHxXjP76WfBB2sdQRquzat1etviJ6ZgCzk6B1aK0H8S0JEbxsRrDokbek3ouFjovvzZcIc3uIAplK0zTvUMsv9RAM6W_QrBjBvM/s1600/P6060184.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="554" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy7-ibDRqRIcES_OAazC8Bnv1G2BNHcVHF59yTeDOAqHxXjP76WfBB2sdQRquzat1etviJ6ZgCzk6B1aK0H8S0JEbxsRrDokbek3ouFjovvzZcIc3uIAplK0zTvUMsv9RAM6W_QrBjBvM/s640/P6060184.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Nice and round! With that in hand, I loaded up the cleaning basket of the L&R. In the main section, I put the plates, the plate screws, the minute wheel clamp, the barrel, cap, and arbor, and the stem - large heavy pieces I prefer not to have bouncing around the more delicate parts.<br />
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Next, I put the balance jewels and the easily-lost springs in the small, screw-top mesh basket. This is where I also put any tiny screws, cap jewels, and the dial washer, if any - essentially anything I worry might get lost!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoFhPBNkicyGtIqtNwtry_JM1_e5BdTIjaqenNx7nIvYPWXzytKb_0xS1NSqMHbkDmt5-Dz6EBwl5wfmk-0aZC9BnFzH9PAgcsFhxI5Nk_eyldTvKD0eJ7vbSF8YL9aRmYha-j2_EDyuw/s1600/P6060186.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoFhPBNkicyGtIqtNwtry_JM1_e5BdTIjaqenNx7nIvYPWXzytKb_0xS1NSqMHbkDmt5-Dz6EBwl5wfmk-0aZC9BnFzH9PAgcsFhxI5Nk_eyldTvKD0eJ7vbSF8YL9aRmYha-j2_EDyuw/s640/P6060186.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Finally, I put the rest of the parts in the recesses of the top of the basket - the pallet in the smallest, with the pallet bridge screw; the balance all alone in the second-smallest; the winding/setting parts and the hour and minute hand from the dial side in the second largest, and the train, crown wheel, and click and accompanying screws in the largest.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFEkHRU118bXmmik5j0oiqWgPuzoA37E2chT8mKd0jVI7riavsBw_UOnZRH3QzZLrfABwIt0lQXEiofUD7hdciVRxovQLBu9j9Ak2xlx4-Sf8NcPjk4JtoUgNcMQJPkejFclGm_Da-POU/s1600/P6060188.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFEkHRU118bXmmik5j0oiqWgPuzoA37E2chT8mKd0jVI7riavsBw_UOnZRH3QzZLrfABwIt0lQXEiofUD7hdciVRxovQLBu9j9Ak2xlx4-Sf8NcPjk4JtoUgNcMQJPkejFclGm_Da-POU/s640/P6060188.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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The lid is paced on carefully, then the whole basket is attached to the spindle of the L&R.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbuoXdoQsDoSVJ5Iej0X0BGKYxlEBBLtb-LImr9Lj9jmh9Oeq9TTYMc2BDmVMigy2dMvbaqQqYsftXMcK3_v-TbMKLww5yPuD6paPZsls0ZjlPs-cl0bZcCd9ZDxX4z-WAkO7EU1qtioU/s1600/P9011090.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbuoXdoQsDoSVJ5Iej0X0BGKYxlEBBLtb-LImr9Lj9jmh9Oeq9TTYMc2BDmVMigy2dMvbaqQqYsftXMcK3_v-TbMKLww5yPuD6paPZsls0ZjlPs-cl0bZcCd9ZDxX4z-WAkO7EU1qtioU/s320/P9011090.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmdfhJLUk3E2xB8RG_OwuKWTxe0Kw2I3TWnGpdQRa9KRpXun3M1Bx5SdZT_Fiy5U7OkGNcJmkGrgzHbhY5YabASgcgsduP73U4SKkmEHmFhMFoG3sgBH5TTJx_cDYeepvML5XJDI12X80/s1600/P9011088.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmdfhJLUk3E2xB8RG_OwuKWTxe0Kw2I3TWnGpdQRa9KRpXun3M1Bx5SdZT_Fiy5U7OkGNcJmkGrgzHbhY5YabASgcgsduP73U4SKkmEHmFhMFoG3sgBH5TTJx_cDYeepvML5XJDI12X80/s320/P9011088.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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The whole motor head is lowered, so the basket goes into the cleaning solution - Zenith Waterless Watch Cleaning solution, in this case. The knob is used to turn on the motor and set it to a fairly low speed. Every 30 seconds, I reverse the direction to break up the flow, for better cleaning.<br />
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After 3 minutes, the basket is raised above the level of the fluid and spun to remove the excess. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhjFwLs_W3X_BJfcvVlfTg4giyLXZvYmJ2ADOxdZhZvJzFsu5E70t6mRUym2lMIROXE2U75lXfHZzxKiBorqCvnfriIPwCvN6cHEvbvNTDT2VRBMJL_Vjauln8AvwmxdIcRyZopvQbFcQ/s1600/P9011093.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhjFwLs_W3X_BJfcvVlfTg4giyLXZvYmJ2ADOxdZhZvJzFsu5E70t6mRUym2lMIROXE2U75lXfHZzxKiBorqCvnfriIPwCvN6cHEvbvNTDT2VRBMJL_Vjauln8AvwmxdIcRyZopvQbFcQ/s400/P9011093.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGAenGl9SXSgEngIwmeokz6POWvp5vZid5dRIa2wwYdgJ8rwd4nyOK9kroibzGqjWeGiMam8-QUkZt6LfbU09YYbJDAOGoEQGfNk3nlEgS48I-fHLyP6z3ntLr0N9EIKgMz5ifshciudM/s1600/P9011095.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGAenGl9SXSgEngIwmeokz6POWvp5vZid5dRIa2wwYdgJ8rwd4nyOK9kroibzGqjWeGiMam8-QUkZt6LfbU09YYbJDAOGoEQGfNk3nlEgS48I-fHLyP6z3ntLr0N9EIKgMz5ifshciudM/s400/P9011095.JPG" width="300" /></a><br />
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The process is repeated in the next two jars, which contain Zenith waterless rinsing solution. Over time, the cleaning solution gets darker, and the first rinse gets cloudy and accumulates a residue from the cleaning solution in the bottom. I discard the Cleaning Solution and Rinse 1, transfer Rinse 2 to Rinse 1, and put new solutions in Cleaning and Rinse 2.<br />
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Once the parts have completed Rinse 2, it's time to dry them. The 4th station is a sort of chimney with a big, heating resistor at the bottom. The lefthand switch turns it on, and the pilot light tells you it's on. The basket is lowered into the chimney and run at a slow speed for about 5 minutes.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvFKW1RNatY5cGbISgcu5SAk5VM_qvoItXmCycv1HovnFMsZCkS-dSn462wjkg9t7YsjbyQZ7qyOmhv3WgfoQrkVFCpghRHy2OdtBxER9MIxsSIooBzOZcwB8uHxW2iAkO-_Zt-r38Szo/s1600/P9011096.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvFKW1RNatY5cGbISgcu5SAk5VM_qvoItXmCycv1HovnFMsZCkS-dSn462wjkg9t7YsjbyQZ7qyOmhv3WgfoQrkVFCpghRHy2OdtBxER9MIxsSIooBzOZcwB8uHxW2iAkO-_Zt-r38Szo/s640/P9011096.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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After letting the basket cool for a few minutes, it's time to finish the cleaning process. "Wait", I hear you thinking, "I thought the parts would be clean now!" Well, they're cleanER. There is still some residue of the old oil and other schmutz that must be carefully removed for the watch to run at its best!<br />
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Here you see my bench, laid out in preparation for the final stages of cleaning.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_LFLrEGmAIyN8qKPFjBvdV_T410QwDdK4ywKIaG_wf7cThFH6uSADp1vuhD-_t3X39dwSbzG95hhVpEwfMe7J_Fr3qgUmAp326CqCWsIDzPlkB-yZG_4iScJFoNg3GTB2WB5Wyx0sv90/s1600/P6060189.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_LFLrEGmAIyN8qKPFjBvdV_T410QwDdK4ywKIaG_wf7cThFH6uSADp1vuhD-_t3X39dwSbzG95hhVpEwfMe7J_Fr3qgUmAp326CqCWsIDzPlkB-yZG_4iScJFoNg3GTB2WB5Wyx0sv90/s640/P6060189.JPG" width="640" /> </a> </div>
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Clockwise from the upper left: Movement tray with fresh blob of Rodico; Movement holder, brush, tweezers and Pegwood, Pithwood and razor for sharpening Pegwood, and the basket full of clean watch parts.</div>
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The Pegwood is used to scrape the oil residue off of jewels and to remove it from the jewel holes - essentially polishing the jewel and removing everything from the surface to keep the oil in place - dirt will allow it to spread. One end is sharpened to a point for cleaning the jewel holes, the other to a chisel shape for scraping the flat surfaces.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHO2vTxx42A_rHxNNg720xlMivrXi_hjOZgxmHy6a9e0DgTAaurYfCiBy9RbmQ4X6eDQRi_uz3iyjgYVbK_QCC1idQd_HVu3c3r5hdQuF-qKLdkxUoOFdFVGLWOYa7fFMsTMhrO8k0af4/s1600/P6060191.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHO2vTxx42A_rHxNNg720xlMivrXi_hjOZgxmHy6a9e0DgTAaurYfCiBy9RbmQ4X6eDQRi_uz3iyjgYVbK_QCC1idQd_HVu3c3r5hdQuF-qKLdkxUoOFdFVGLWOYa7fFMsTMhrO8k0af4/s320/P6060191.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZd1ucEHNWVi9hi9BVvvsSY8sgGORXc5LNCyPOOfcbmZycosP-Xb9p3nTIIgDdRmWwJLBjY86WTMyRQ5KJptc0frYxAzAFFrs9KRlN4l5fDdHPXAtYb2jmM8Sjw0dhofOzoFqdZlExprA/s1600/P6060190.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZd1ucEHNWVi9hi9BVvvsSY8sgGORXc5LNCyPOOfcbmZycosP-Xb9p3nTIIgDdRmWwJLBjY86WTMyRQ5KJptc0frYxAzAFFrs9KRlN4l5fDdHPXAtYb2jmM8Sjw0dhofOzoFqdZlExprA/s320/P6060190.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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In the background is a pithwood disk. Pithwood is the center of branches of the Elder tree. It is about the consistency of styrofoam, and it has a mild abrasive action when you plunge steel pivots into it. This removes the last vestiges of oil residue from the pivots and jewels, leaving them perfectly clean. It's also used during assembly to clean tweezer and screwdriver tips, as well as to clean oilers.</div>
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I push the balance, roller jewel-down into the pithwood to clean both the pivot and the jewel, then flip it over to clean the upper pivot. Obviously this is done with care to avoid distorting the hairspring.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJl7NZqEzB5pb895xHy46KAaOhgiRT_O6xiLe41dtT1JHp_bvH9BJ3JSTPXXjLUn5HmpZewTcBqbbzzEDfpff9qAxhJDAOqjFeWcZSLLUjtfENlBXH5AA3psK2FEGcrF9RuzwzPYOyKxI/s1600/P6060192.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJl7NZqEzB5pb895xHy46KAaOhgiRT_O6xiLe41dtT1JHp_bvH9BJ3JSTPXXjLUn5HmpZewTcBqbbzzEDfpff9qAxhJDAOqjFeWcZSLLUjtfENlBXH5AA3psK2FEGcrF9RuzwzPYOyKxI/s320/P6060192.JPG" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib9mevXvmVpmMmd8TjgzPN5eAucmUJd4zW3Bewb72dRGbIQ66J5n8V7446AvNBxraRkDaE7qQ7bpOW46RYhOCtIgdjsL2-VcHY74XtNtrYt9Hn-478xhaC4WCbUDqehJRPuxsIu8_gPjQ/s1600/P6060193.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib9mevXvmVpmMmd8TjgzPN5eAucmUJd4zW3Bewb72dRGbIQ66J5n8V7446AvNBxraRkDaE7qQ7bpOW46RYhOCtIgdjsL2-VcHY74XtNtrYt9Hn-478xhaC4WCbUDqehJRPuxsIu8_gPjQ/s320/P6060193.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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I do the same with the pallet pivots, and all the train wheels. At this time, I also check the pallet jewels for any residue on the impulse face. If there is any, I LIGHTLY drag the jewel through the pitwood to remove it. Sorry there are no pictures - the trick is to hold the pallet at just the right angle such that the light reflects off the impulse face, while observing through your loupe. Hard to get a picture of that!!!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy1NgXKt_YMxx6S852QoADR-XnX6VpcBlliL9acQlE_p_p8YrL6y-x5lfHqP-lvaOBcO5ZGxAyCyerjtFeO6bwALTOHg7Z_vw1z8X84BqTrmSV5E-iHyivjKVAMvR6LYjCcuXeljYQK-I/s1600/P6060194.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy1NgXKt_YMxx6S852QoADR-XnX6VpcBlliL9acQlE_p_p8YrL6y-x5lfHqP-lvaOBcO5ZGxAyCyerjtFeO6bwALTOHg7Z_vw1z8X84BqTrmSV5E-iHyivjKVAMvR6LYjCcuXeljYQK-I/s320/P6060194.JPG" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig_nXY-mkkUfya79_29jav9Wku7bwZnm9l3V418RUD9JA5CBjy4iV6Ng-h1BfSsILv6xc2QtJGawRdHmqhCLSfrjqRrcxX3gXXmOy4BbN7scLyyS4dZnb_VV-MdpLeLNg5LT_rue3PmBQ/s1600/P6060196.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig_nXY-mkkUfya79_29jav9Wku7bwZnm9l3V418RUD9JA5CBjy4iV6Ng-h1BfSsILv6xc2QtJGawRdHmqhCLSfrjqRrcxX3gXXmOy4BbN7scLyyS4dZnb_VV-MdpLeLNg5LT_rue3PmBQ/s320/P6060196.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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This is also a good time to inspect the teeth of the wheels, and the leaves of the pinions.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivpcIuzH5bsW8P8BfmSZYtMYUj-Oq-_l455yyjt3wZeeQUo7hIEQy3Z7P8aNIecQNcxXARLDov6dDk0P0PDeH8aQRJulIWTeAzqueOKUiYIdaFzS_lSKiTWmVP1gwgUJJY-l1Eocxz55Q/s1600/P6060197.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivpcIuzH5bsW8P8BfmSZYtMYUj-Oq-_l455yyjt3wZeeQUo7hIEQy3Z7P8aNIecQNcxXARLDov6dDk0P0PDeH8aQRJulIWTeAzqueOKUiYIdaFzS_lSKiTWmVP1gwgUJJY-l1Eocxz55Q/s640/P6060197.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Next, the jewels and bushings are pegged. Here again, you use the reflection of light on the surface of the jewels to show you where the dirt is. Check out the left hand cap jewel. You can JUST see the schmutz on the surface. This must be removed!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhewbni6htYBgEdbjSa1Goc2X8XvH-TQh3UlxyREORYlwe3gMMBzzXgSTl7pyQT0RmUgz4a01mvAK0x50HtvUJCL6W_BCnxn_t2lqbGK65fRWcjEd2hh6UAGGnidNvVP6hpWrv__jYmkg0/s1600/P6060203.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="514" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhewbni6htYBgEdbjSa1Goc2X8XvH-TQh3UlxyREORYlwe3gMMBzzXgSTl7pyQT0RmUgz4a01mvAK0x50HtvUJCL6W_BCnxn_t2lqbGK65fRWcjEd2hh6UAGGnidNvVP6hpWrv__jYmkg0/s640/P6060203.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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All the pivot holes on each plate and bridge must have their flat surfaces rubbed clean, and their pivot holes polished with the pointed end. The pointed end is gently pushed into the pivot hole while twirling slightly, and pressure is slowly increased. When you pull the point back out, the tip should have a long, pointy bit where it went through the hole. If not, you might have just plugged the hole, and you'll have to resharpen and repeat until you've cleared the hole.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL73t6pdtXQFCBbqX7U234P9CRcFTRYKSxETkyy03y63rtlTH02k_P_oto0yNu40dU2fmivAWKypygbbks2FjyURMkfXc9u9mW-AlS26k3ACrzRizJiy_wD57PpnGVK2yCNwdO6lQaxrA/s1600/P6060199.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL73t6pdtXQFCBbqX7U234P9CRcFTRYKSxETkyy03y63rtlTH02k_P_oto0yNu40dU2fmivAWKypygbbks2FjyURMkfXc9u9mW-AlS26k3ACrzRizJiy_wD57PpnGVK2yCNwdO6lQaxrA/s320/P6060199.JPG" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwB976QTgA__lVO_AmSB_KRMsVgTgf6_auep0pxtP0GoQJUMwNXzHHjhv3Gc9ruzedVzWCZHQhc-JdNQpl__iomsMe2BueRsaycyY08q9xvgIpJe7IikWatRV-a8lOm4a-nkZv55Fxc7c/s1600/P6060200.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwB976QTgA__lVO_AmSB_KRMsVgTgf6_auep0pxtP0GoQJUMwNXzHHjhv3Gc9ruzedVzWCZHQhc-JdNQpl__iomsMe2BueRsaycyY08q9xvgIpJe7IikWatRV-a8lOm4a-nkZv55Fxc7c/s320/P6060200.JPG" width="320" /></a> </div>
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Both the chisel and the point should be resharpened frequently. Each jewel should be inspected with your high power loupe, with a light background to ensure the hole is clean and the surfaces clear of dirt, dust, and any wood fibers. The residue and wood fibers are easily removed with Rodico, which is also useful for cleaning off fingerprints.</div>
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In addition to cleaning the jewels, Pegwood is also useful for scraping residues off other parts, in this case dried grease from the inside of the barrel cap. </div>
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Now that all the parts are scrupulously clean, and laid out in the movement tray, it's time to start reassembly. That's for the NEXT post!</div>
GeneJockeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17161884314264237342noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6738648204942530086.post-72748807749079678532013-06-15T15:07:00.000-07:002013-06-23T16:39:58.511-07:00For A Few Dollars More - Part 2 - Teardown and DiagnosisWith the movement uncased, and the hands and dial removed as well as the hour wheel and cannon pinion, it's time to take the movement apart. Only by taking it completely apart can the pieces be properly cleaned and inspected before reassembly, lubrication, and regulation. This is why watchmakers charge so much - it's not just 'dip and swish'!<br />
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The first step is to release the power of the mainspring. If you fail to do this first, when you remove the pallet bridge, the sudden release of the power through the train may break a pallet jewel and/or fling the tiny thing across the room!<br />
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To release the power, you need to have the stem and crown installed. Turn the stem just enough to move the click out of the teeth of the ratchet wheel, and using fine tweezers or a pin, push and hold the click out of the way while allowing the the mainspring to unwind slowly, controlling the speed with your fingers on the crown.<br />
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Once that's done, I remove the balance cock and balance. I start by loosening the hairspring stud screw and pushing the stud down out of the hole in the cock.<br />
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With that done, I unscrew the balance cock screw and carefully lift off the balance cock, leaving the balance in place. The hairspring stud should drop completely out of the hole, and the hairspring should fall out from between the regulator pins. Note that the 13/0 Elgins, and many Swiss movements have regulators which cage the hairspring. That is, they are not open at the bottom for the spring to fall out. In those cases, do not loosen the stud screw but rather remove the balance and cock together, and separate them afterwards.</div>
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Gently remove the balance, and check the pivots. In this case, they are beautifully intact. </div>
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The 642 uses Incabloc shockproofing, which uses a lyre-shaped spring to hold the set hole jewel and unset cap jewel. This page from an Elgin booklet from 1950 explains it well.</div>
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To remove the jewels, gently move each leg of the spring to release the tab. Then lift the spring, which hinges at the back, and remove the jewel. Generally before cleaning, they stick together. Once you're removed them, remember to put the spring tabs back in place to protect the spring!</div>
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Remember, there are TWO sets of jewels. Remove the set in the pillar plate at some point! </div>
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Next, remove the pallet bridge screw, pry up carefully on the bridge and remove it. Lift out the pallet, inspecting the jewels, pivots, fork and guard pin.</div>
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At this point, you can turn the crown a bit to put tension on the mainspring, and see how the train runs. Generally if everything is intact, but dirty, it will spin for a second or two and then stop abruptly while spinning forward. The friction of dried oils and other schmutz in the jewel holes will prevent the free running of the train. That's why we clean it!</div>
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The next step is to remove the winding/setting gear on the dial side. Flip the movement over, and remove the two screws holding the minute wheel clamp (also known as the yoke). Remove it, and then remove the minute wheel, setting wheel, clutch lever, and clutch lever spring. Be VERY CAREFUL with the clutch lever spring. It may try to escape!</div>
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Next, with the stem removed, take out the clutch and the bevel pinion. Finally, flip the movement over again, and unscrew the set lever screw, until you hear a tiny 'tick' of the setting lever falling out and hitting the work surface.</div>
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Now it's time to remove the ratchet wheel,the click, and the crown wheel. REMEMBER! The crown wheel screw unscrews CLOCKWISE!!!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVKIjhyphenhyphenzdRXLXRCBFsndREmBhNNlKNcZFvE1nDSS44hPVI0brYq8Y5wmZMVZFEg7NPrjMPq2Ft1z2_OauIyH9tS1iHGkb4AOc8UQCDnlPDHAhckHUWp_QobsWkaQLDJg2AYwPo-_b1t2k/s1600/P6050160.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVKIjhyphenhyphenzdRXLXRCBFsndREmBhNNlKNcZFvE1nDSS44hPVI0brYq8Y5wmZMVZFEg7NPrjMPq2Ft1z2_OauIyH9tS1iHGkb4AOc8UQCDnlPDHAhckHUWp_QobsWkaQLDJg2AYwPo-_b1t2k/s320/P6050160.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Now unscrew the train bridge screws, and remove the train bridge.</div>
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Now do the same with the barrel bridge. Note that I forgot to remove the click spring (big J-shaped spring looping under the ratchet wheel) at an earlier point, so I took it out before removing the barrel bridge. Be careful with these, as they are even easier to lose than the clutch lever spring!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZYseZ5slPkY0R8n5o67q8EIf9ibs2tbFvTblpWEL58gDykaDGJRbhAsy3lMuv3_kaGXwmQtet58Kcx6p1gxR9a1ew8KB68qIRbFgg6mnr2J_96jodZE49HJ2NeOkqfxEolF8yxofNqdo/s1600/P6050167.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZYseZ5slPkY0R8n5o67q8EIf9ibs2tbFvTblpWEL58gDykaDGJRbhAsy3lMuv3_kaGXwmQtet58Kcx6p1gxR9a1ew8KB68qIRbFgg6mnr2J_96jodZE49HJ2NeOkqfxEolF8yxofNqdo/s320/P6050167.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ0qfWwvsCDdDpelMOS-Sk59jlWQAZPebpGcvAsA2x8VLQ434T4aqqLR91SxGMMF9E45C3Yx6gEJOvZsuvRhOAJM3_Zb5A0LGfb4PpS-IcbRArctrtFS8KSqeSht9ZiXtCVBGdiSpjOt4/s1600/P6050169.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ0qfWwvsCDdDpelMOS-Sk59jlWQAZPebpGcvAsA2x8VLQ434T4aqqLR91SxGMMF9E45C3Yx6gEJOvZsuvRhOAJM3_Zb5A0LGfb4PpS-IcbRArctrtFS8KSqeSht9ZiXtCVBGdiSpjOt4/s320/P6050169.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Now remove the train, the barrel, and the setting lever screw. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP0RnKS2Pr6lLbxF_NBRrqDwsNkqDemDuRdIAs06LTJCofH6qIuc_uPfPllsGUss5-W-5F-VHpkl-y7iU4jVCeiDYeyKNOPxXCJNoIwS0-1e5J3dmvJnYXHKtBBGj1o-UNNNgbVf91o-k/s1600/P6050171.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP0RnKS2Pr6lLbxF_NBRrqDwsNkqDemDuRdIAs06LTJCofH6qIuc_uPfPllsGUss5-W-5F-VHpkl-y7iU4jVCeiDYeyKNOPxXCJNoIwS0-1e5J3dmvJnYXHKtBBGj1o-UNNNgbVf91o-k/s320/P6050171.JPG" width="320" /></a> </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLgkupCZ6XWDRb6GNdOsuE8yfYvchXgTJOV8MSHazEVPLYu1BTdoSBfcec_-CZjShBqfprhsG_KECYW0iSH4BdJAGWusU3G6C0_fTKY61qX3v5leV0VhWhFLrWzCvmAMjG6DL6ntRfpmc/s1600/P6050170.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLgkupCZ6XWDRb6GNdOsuE8yfYvchXgTJOV8MSHazEVPLYu1BTdoSBfcec_-CZjShBqfprhsG_KECYW0iSH4BdJAGWusU3G6C0_fTKY61qX3v5leV0VhWhFLrWzCvmAMjG6DL6ntRfpmc/s320/P6050170.JPG" width="320" /></a>.</div>
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The next step is to remove the mainspring from the barrel. I place the
barrel on my bench block with the square-cut part of the arbor down, and
thus the barrel cap up. I use 4 fingers on the barrel teeth to push
the barrel down. This pushes the arbor up, and lifts the barrel cap out
of the barrel. After removing the barrel cap, CAREFULLY remove the
barrel arbor - the mainspring may try to throw it across the room!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg_4xN0976yaiHpIxZuTPWM-Sw1mDo5OsJtUttNeEsW6gkZC7jcPhvUGw7LjzngMZnAis4ntcKZj-D4Kg1mOcpIUIkb_JBIQWI-WS4OY-uS0ZWbrBvW3gwDZjVmmOyZRPK6S8rV7FVovE/s1600/P6050172.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg_4xN0976yaiHpIxZuTPWM-Sw1mDo5OsJtUttNeEsW6gkZC7jcPhvUGw7LjzngMZnAis4ntcKZj-D4Kg1mOcpIUIkb_JBIQWI-WS4OY-uS0ZWbrBvW3gwDZjVmmOyZRPK6S8rV7FVovE/s320/P6050172.JPG" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikoJy_2aZDpCjlC60AmbuTIrBhwSCPPZXu8q5otCWvc4BZmp0AaVMechMWIIonlsyJFiBGYM3DxgNK84ax33WbW-PpLc9DqvW5gY2-L3pq3PRJ2d57iYPBD3QhMGZQPyu4Kem1ddwfOZ4/s1600/P6050173.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikoJy_2aZDpCjlC60AmbuTIrBhwSCPPZXu8q5otCWvc4BZmp0AaVMechMWIIonlsyJFiBGYM3DxgNK84ax33WbW-PpLc9DqvW5gY2-L3pq3PRJ2d57iYPBD3QhMGZQPyu4Kem1ddwfOZ4/s320/P6050173.JPG" width="320" /></a> </div>
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Now to remove the mainspring from the barrel. Holding the barrel between the thumb and forefinger of the right hand, use tweezers to pull out the first coil or two. Then, caging the uncoiling spring with your left hand, work the barrel back and forth between the finger and thumb, releasing half a coil each time, until finally the whole mainspring has come out. Keep a good grip on both the barrel and the spring, because there's a lot of force trying to escape! </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIBbskGdqSgRNp9IzSwaZIPya8mCQG5stZG9OejXq7rNBE9qwPlspNTP3gRM0dIV56ZKHUiBAnv20KRhUkO1jCij6943yLGOg9ig5V3_t1UW7Skme3wCMaGmBSgc8RFUdKs_hcvCaVmeE/s1600/P6050175.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIBbskGdqSgRNp9IzSwaZIPya8mCQG5stZG9OejXq7rNBE9qwPlspNTP3gRM0dIV56ZKHUiBAnv20KRhUkO1jCij6943yLGOg9ig5V3_t1UW7Skme3wCMaGmBSgc8RFUdKs_hcvCaVmeE/s320/P6050175.JPG" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhkvHLWZ9LQzfe3Ss0vgQr8yqgvG5UlPlTxzH4uJbpTzBIoV-bjvXgBfX0vPq4MfiexZ8BooCMITdKNGx5gW1GdMTvE4kO_azJH3Y_xUPYWURC7El8r_BfV8iUh5MqV5sTd20inkboGt4/s1600/P6050178.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhkvHLWZ9LQzfe3Ss0vgQr8yqgvG5UlPlTxzH4uJbpTzBIoV-bjvXgBfX0vPq4MfiexZ8BooCMITdKNGx5gW1GdMTvE4kO_azJH3Y_xUPYWURC7El8r_BfV8iUh5MqV5sTd20inkboGt4/s320/P6050178.JPG" width="320" /></a> </div>
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Okay, now the diagnosis. </div>
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First, remember how the seller said it ran but needed to be wound every few hours? It turns out the T-end of the spring had broken off. After the mainspring came out of the barrel, it fell out onto the bench.</div>
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Without that to hold the end of the spring, it would wind up until the tension caused it to slip. That's why it would not store more than a few hours worth of power. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhOFXzCT1tjWpDPvickNTBHp22fgEEy1C3kJHExfRcAVfKwn0LJ1azSf6caqwzFYlGfUNgzij-IuWDRn1AGUD3F720_th3VtQ9Kxf1pgBZ4KH9-mDbDuoR6bSF-SuOwMW7t_-ZOZmNrIk/s1600/P6050180.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhOFXzCT1tjWpDPvickNTBHp22fgEEy1C3kJHExfRcAVfKwn0LJ1azSf6caqwzFYlGfUNgzij-IuWDRn1AGUD3F720_th3VtQ9Kxf1pgBZ4KH9-mDbDuoR6bSF-SuOwMW7t_-ZOZmNrIk/s640/P6050180.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Something else I noticed soon after I looked at the movement. The upper center wheel arbor was NOT centered in the bushing. Check this shot...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdBE55Cy3UEKW6hJ1hcPYrXDdTfVCVFkIgYqs5pTNl49HXeiimhE-SRg4W0I0xQ4AIu56UHGT9JosZ0WOvMOiXoJFOE8iFoE0RadiMf6ygixlZri4FPk6S7ax6A15SeGoQmiA354ET198/s1600/Off+center.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="626" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdBE55Cy3UEKW6hJ1hcPYrXDdTfVCVFkIgYqs5pTNl49HXeiimhE-SRg4W0I0xQ4AIu56UHGT9JosZ0WOvMOiXoJFOE8iFoE0RadiMf6ygixlZri4FPk6S7ax6A15SeGoQmiA354ET198/s640/Off+center.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Once I took it down, the problem was obvious - the center wheel bushing was worn out, so that the hole was now enlarged, and eccentric.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkeNhIo_3xnk6N9D98x-myphNJfRccnoMbw54nNYgVxfSj4lyWeI-cqoO7PPM3VT858noZw8De4MeGKdlcDJ0bGyas-cd-hpu96IMTtYuLLYtUA4xfhH7XkPedo3wyJAvDzYODCq4gqGk/s1600/Center+Bushing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="602" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkeNhIo_3xnk6N9D98x-myphNJfRccnoMbw54nNYgVxfSj4lyWeI-cqoO7PPM3VT858noZw8De4MeGKdlcDJ0bGyas-cd-hpu96IMTtYuLLYtUA4xfhH7XkPedo3wyJAvDzYODCq4gqGk/s640/Center+Bushing.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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This happens with 15j watches, where there is no jewel for the center wheel. Over time, the hardened steel pivot, running in a softer bushing, will erode the bushing. Watchmakers have tools to replace the bushing. I don't. BUT I have a work around. Stay tuned!</div>
GeneJockeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17161884314264237342noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6738648204942530086.post-55049246006895193142013-06-15T13:21:00.000-07:002013-06-15T18:58:43.400-07:00For A Few Dollars More - Part 1 - Arrival and PreparationIn 1951, Elgin introduced the <i>'Shockmaster'</i> line of watches. These were Elgin's first shock resistant watches. At the time they were introduced, Elgin's line of watches came in three grades: the 15j <i>Elgin</i> series; the 17j <i>Elgin DeLuxe</i>; and the 21j <i>Lord Elgin</i> and 19j <i>Lady Elgin</i>. In the 8/0 series, the 15j 554 went into <i>Elgin</i> models, whereas the 17j 555 was found in <i>Elgin DeLuxe</i> models, and the 21j 556 powered the<i> Lord Elgins</i>. The 554 series of movements had been introduced in 1940, replacing the 519 series.<br />
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When Elgin introduced the 8/0 <i>Shockmasters</i>, they made them in only <i>Elgin</i> and <i>Elgin Deluxe</i> grades. Perhaps they thought <i>Lord Elgin</i> owners wouldn't need shock protection? As usual for Elgin, a slight modification led to a whole new grade number. The <i>Shockmaster</i> version of the 554 became the 642, while the 555 became the 641. I have no idea why they flipped the numbering, so that the LOWER number had the HIGHER jewel count, but Elgin's grade numbers didn't always make sense!<br />
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Last week, I picked up an Elgin Shockmaster with a 15j 642, in a stainless steel case for about $22. The seller listed it as 'runs, but needs to be wound every few hours'. That boded well for the balance!<br />
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Here's the arrival and unwrapping...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiITCVQZ70PMAR1dzNMe5vJCEANNHnly-O7CGkfsGZE5bZTS7wypMmm2WPCCG0o2pd5aSfz0PfFJ9K5z0afuIHrPFPjKXQjsatNbgbpxCYEki6i66J6RrD-ek7b2k1QN_Lqw4zBiooFeXk/s1600/P6040117.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAH-7z9Gbw_HPCj8HVCa7LVRvfwtiTKD_WLkIRLXmcuH0jXmhC_qxq6inBhTRo4HMlgJoyC0ycEtQUTD3PedC48M3jwGMRUQBP9zGJTMqBDTEHkmW03tPvGsA_glYO18mv4H8RcghDHic/s1600/P6040116.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAH-7z9Gbw_HPCj8HVCa7LVRvfwtiTKD_WLkIRLXmcuH0jXmhC_qxq6inBhTRo4HMlgJoyC0ycEtQUTD3PedC48M3jwGMRUQBP9zGJTMqBDTEHkmW03tPvGsA_glYO18mv4H8RcghDHic/s320/P6040116.JPG" width="320" /></a><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiITCVQZ70PMAR1dzNMe5vJCEANNHnly-O7CGkfsGZE5bZTS7wypMmm2WPCCG0o2pd5aSfz0PfFJ9K5z0afuIHrPFPjKXQjsatNbgbpxCYEki6i66J6RrD-ek7b2k1QN_Lqw4zBiooFeXk/s320/P6040117.JPG" width="320" /></div>
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The dial's a little grubby, and there's a radium burn the exact shape of the hour hand's lume window. The crystal is scratched and a little cloudy, and the case has the usual green and brown crud in all the nooks and crannies. But what do you expect after 62 years, for $22? <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBwcG5StZONwmcVVZhn9cIkQ42mi5CVbEM2OokjTdRb7DVBAL_aD0uMfn8H6sRQXTUEzX85aBeh5jjNgraoaCdHMDA0RcTQdFOZpJmn5-8ktgTWtAsjvq5KPMs3Qyumhsroxe9zmu_cLY/s1600/P6040119.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBwcG5StZONwmcVVZhn9cIkQ42mi5CVbEM2OokjTdRb7DVBAL_aD0uMfn8H6sRQXTUEzX85aBeh5jjNgraoaCdHMDA0RcTQdFOZpJmn5-8ktgTWtAsjvq5KPMs3Qyumhsroxe9zmu_cLY/s320/P6040119.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The case is one of Elgin's waterproof consumer cases. The 4-hole back is seen on a number of these. Earlier models came with wrench flats, while later models had the inlets that are common today. Once the back is opened, we see the movement - a 15 j 642, from 1951.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVUSwZrMpRcktB3-unykLLobwRDU9u0czsAMEL6lfZ6SvuLLrwdA6TkQ7LocvHshiGtv9nkr1HuRDyJI0_Bydfkf5E1vUr49rZuE8P8JwcwCabKj-oy5OvPN5ZiUMabTrt1X2LzlCDCc4/s1600/P6040120.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVUSwZrMpRcktB3-unykLLobwRDU9u0czsAMEL6lfZ6SvuLLrwdA6TkQ7LocvHshiGtv9nkr1HuRDyJI0_Bydfkf5E1vUr49rZuE8P8JwcwCabKj-oy5OvPN5ZiUMabTrt1X2LzlCDCc4/s640/P6040120.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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The first step in the restoration is to take the movement out of the case. To do this, the stem must first be removed: pull the crown to setting position, and unscrew the setting lever screw about 1 1/2 turns, and try to pull the stem out. If it doesn't come out, unscrew half a turn and try again. Continue until the stem comes out.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIwxHp3WNIIbZr3VZA6W-kZUCmT0VYA5BFmVcCIzZuaSynEmzmAvCAW5om84kMaHHXl-i2T5sQES-hYhIVFdCdK3cSRTidqnvlottycraMlp4pxkgEnDOrer62QMrsXMsx-qaZkSsKYD8/s1600/P6040122.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIwxHp3WNIIbZr3VZA6W-kZUCmT0VYA5BFmVcCIzZuaSynEmzmAvCAW5om84kMaHHXl-i2T5sQES-hYhIVFdCdK3cSRTidqnvlottycraMlp4pxkgEnDOrer62QMrsXMsx-qaZkSsKYD8/s320/P6040122.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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At this point you can remove the O-ring and the spacer ring. If you turn the watch over, the movement and case ring will generally come out.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibwhZHAL7rpdJLsEyUY-X3dE48VkxXtdTHsGcNXzDPoGawwhkGtt2qMbZKBOVFZAwcP9M8FkozhaNFXQOncGM9CqWE-vSb9PBWm-kCEFEDvi6YDdFfc69eBTlvJJYmc52GKFSQLkCW7PI/s1600/P6040124.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibwhZHAL7rpdJLsEyUY-X3dE48VkxXtdTHsGcNXzDPoGawwhkGtt2qMbZKBOVFZAwcP9M8FkozhaNFXQOncGM9CqWE-vSb9PBWm-kCEFEDvi6YDdFfc69eBTlvJJYmc52GKFSQLkCW7PI/s320/P6040124.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzBIGx1VGpE9OxuVbnIEytfZ0xdAaYvYw9lYroZzyOpg_9bsP5GvFEVMstt-0TOC6JX-VzMpWxW9aHVQPlUDbOzpq1UuAZz_b9n-NTTrnCyJhG8ODwawht11D_1rQhWyQDlheEr4MrLNU/s1600/P6040125.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzBIGx1VGpE9OxuVbnIEytfZ0xdAaYvYw9lYroZzyOpg_9bsP5GvFEVMstt-0TOC6JX-VzMpWxW9aHVQPlUDbOzpq1UuAZz_b9n-NTTrnCyJhG8ODwawht11D_1rQhWyQDlheEr4MrLNU/s320/P6040125.JPG" width="320" /></a> </div>
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Next, reinsert the stem and set the hour and minute hand to the same spot. Carefully place a protective piece of paper or plastic under the hands, and using a hand remover, pull the hour and minute hand.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBSKljClTuaYz_HHm_6_Rn2wWE1wNV5Sf15xO6I9OaY_xPkJ8HdQOqtgQyn7FH8iHGuXXk2-fjKTiY3wvadBhyqnqKQX9aO4-xyQ16qTgVhKtfQ4vJhUWmERJOUG_lZaaQp-kGVRzjgYY/s1600/P6040126.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBSKljClTuaYz_HHm_6_Rn2wWE1wNV5Sf15xO6I9OaY_xPkJ8HdQOqtgQyn7FH8iHGuXXk2-fjKTiY3wvadBhyqnqKQX9aO4-xyQ16qTgVhKtfQ4vJhUWmERJOUG_lZaaQp-kGVRzjgYY/s320/P6040126.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2HCsa-0D_AXDlHHeAsHBBhsYoZu7Zv8fpdZ7jGR00M5eBQ8UqrBeuuc3eQqQ-mSplcM7GY1xuXDmWWul10iheqzTpoh4ky5TBF86-O60rSNeqEPEP9ErIT6l7kIMlf90mGqL6_m0jCk0/s1600/P6040127.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2HCsa-0D_AXDlHHeAsHBBhsYoZu7Zv8fpdZ7jGR00M5eBQ8UqrBeuuc3eQqQ-mSplcM7GY1xuXDmWWul10iheqzTpoh4ky5TBF86-O60rSNeqEPEP9ErIT6l7kIMlf90mGqL6_m0jCk0/s320/P6040127.JPG" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaN7KPQT_-1wbWrWY-JEIWhmMDNDHc6bzkfJRtFXt4Gqs_BrIJzgE5hyFCqmyW6favkKAfK2xdWOnA56A1ATUpd6EHsIg7WijLNEXV4ZAjApOM_6_lh2up0czJTnJkWpTAJ-uDpdN91tU/s1600/P6040128.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaN7KPQT_-1wbWrWY-JEIWhmMDNDHc6bzkfJRtFXt4Gqs_BrIJzgE5hyFCqmyW6favkKAfK2xdWOnA56A1ATUpd6EHsIg7WijLNEXV4ZAjApOM_6_lh2up0czJTnJkWpTAJ-uDpdN91tU/s320/P6040128.JPG" width="320" /> </a></div>
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Leaving the second hand in place, unscrew the dial foot screws a bit. All of Elgin's wrist watch movements introduced after 1935 have only 2 dial foot screws, though some earlier models have 3. Lift the dial and the second hand off.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip0j-0nMCw0jSfbPTEsLFunIp6Ew6v5UVXraMArnA6h-aVDFbD_Aok2ST_8aDioB719gSj0NUGAjtphmKK1oAc2cq-OexTCEpUwcNHigE_trH1rxJ9VoomGzPvDXXwtT9DrhK-K7WGRAE/s1600/P6040132.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip0j-0nMCw0jSfbPTEsLFunIp6Ew6v5UVXraMArnA6h-aVDFbD_Aok2ST_8aDioB719gSj0NUGAjtphmKK1oAc2cq-OexTCEpUwcNHigE_trH1rxJ9VoomGzPvDXXwtT9DrhK-K7WGRAE/s320/P6040132.JPG" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmpRm-kVw27ESQ76L69CdP8mSg4v-v8aeHRgztye5M4RYvUqPlSbtD1WH0WDUvZART9WBvDokE4TwO-5AhhIB51CP6TXo3tOoetdupPHwQudKszXgyfdKmrX-15iGxTwAjwPC3glU0s0E/s1600/P6040131.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmpRm-kVw27ESQ76L69CdP8mSg4v-v8aeHRgztye5M4RYvUqPlSbtD1WH0WDUvZART9WBvDokE4TwO-5AhhIB51CP6TXo3tOoetdupPHwQudKszXgyfdKmrX-15iGxTwAjwPC3glU0s0E/s320/P6040131.JPG" width="320" /></a> </div>
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Remove the hour wheel. To remove the cannon pinion, I grasp it from the side with tweezers, and gently lever/lift it off. If it refuses to budge, don't force it.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0AelV5lUjg-Hi_MvJtb9Zl9H1xxTzv5Vyy8EOYS_1eoOkBLyELAO8XISdWCpuVd9-afN9fsnNp-U1hNw8r352I2F2HWe6cuwHEncvlgnHAWjJKi-LDddl6xWZqCF6HV_TQrxVUvVGXgk/s1600/P6040133.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0AelV5lUjg-Hi_MvJtb9Zl9H1xxTzv5Vyy8EOYS_1eoOkBLyELAO8XISdWCpuVd9-afN9fsnNp-U1hNw8r352I2F2HWe6cuwHEncvlgnHAWjJKi-LDddl6xWZqCF6HV_TQrxVUvVGXgk/s320/P6040133.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Now the movement is ready to tear down. That's in the next post.</div>
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<br />GeneJockeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17161884314264237342noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6738648204942530086.post-13150560604078368352013-05-13T08:30:00.000-07:002013-05-13T10:06:06.120-07:0024 Hour Elgins<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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One sees Elgins in A-11 cases with 24 hour dials on Ebay all the time. Often, the title of the listing will say "WWII", despite the fact that the movement is one that was not made until 1950, and the serial number dates it to the same time. Of course, since these are billed as 'military', there's always SOMEbody willing to pay hundreds of dollars.<br />
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While there is a FAINT possibility that some 24 hour Elgins, cased as wristwatches, the majority of what one sees are in fact Frankens. There were not large numbers of 24 hour Elgin wristwatches issued to the military. <br />
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The thing is, Elgin DID make 24 hour watches. Mostly, however, they did not make them for the wrist. They were, in fact, <u>camera</u> watches, used in gun cameras on jet fighters. These would allow a 'time stamp' in film from the gun camera. The Hamilton commonly known as the 'bomb timer' was used for much the same purpose.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-C3o-xk2G8XTNPaAgb7T3eb7KmojUudze6FpP8ESLECY70b2Fq59_jWzUdc4ck9c8Go2A7ozpFE0g5paSlKKc-yKvBEMvfO80rTY8MHXCfc4wiVYBG5NEVPa0cJEHgudC6hDYzZaIvYs/s1600/P1010160.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-C3o-xk2G8XTNPaAgb7T3eb7KmojUudze6FpP8ESLECY70b2Fq59_jWzUdc4ck9c8Go2A7ozpFE0g5paSlKKc-yKvBEMvfO80rTY8MHXCfc4wiVYBG5NEVPa0cJEHgudC6hDYzZaIvYs/s640/P1010160.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Movements known to have been used for camera watches include two 8/0 movements (647 and 685), and a number of the 13/0 Durabalance movements. Other watch companies made similar watches - I've seen them with Bulova movements, and Rene Rondeau (Mr. Hamilton Electric) has a Hamilton 505 Electric movement in a camera case with a 24 hour dial, with the battery replaced by a wire that presumably went to the plane's electrical system.<br />
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Recently, I acquired an Elgin camera watch movement. It dates to the early 1960s, during the Cold War. It's a Durabalance movement, made especially for this purpose, with 24hr dial gearing and dial, and with hacking.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqbuDNXNswerEXbacRpyNLBwF_-ygoRtWUkMP6CO9Y7pCUmcLi3ajodTZ7XD53koKuj4jOaqZNTA_UGrZgMHOaV68MP7D9hCCLG-R-kOnlCsmlmSh1t_uOFumeOpoX1vG08ipB6dScd_k/s1600/781+face.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="548" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqbuDNXNswerEXbacRpyNLBwF_-ygoRtWUkMP6CO9Y7pCUmcLi3ajodTZ7XD53koKuj4jOaqZNTA_UGrZgMHOaV68MP7D9hCCLG-R-kOnlCsmlmSh1t_uOFumeOpoX1vG08ipB6dScd_k/s640/781+face.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: black;">Here it is in a camera watch case I'd bought separately.</span></div>
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<span style="color: black;">I cleaned it, replaced the 3rd wheel and sweep second wheel, and got it running. I decided to make my own Frankenized 24 hour A-11, so I bought an NOS Star A-11 case, which it fits perfectly.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYfDz_nChto0e8YUlm6fkeBidoEq_hhXPzTu7-4cyH7_uQEsBQQKbY_OyWBy7e74Cbu-3VOqiDkF4QA8raFjcLeD5VaamanrRDtOxfO6EWsXEJYsBDWcASwni29H3c4PWUNZbk4OcgPCY/s1600/DSCF0375.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="604" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYfDz_nChto0e8YUlm6fkeBidoEq_hhXPzTu7-4cyH7_uQEsBQQKbY_OyWBy7e74Cbu-3VOqiDkF4QA8raFjcLeD5VaamanrRDtOxfO6EWsXEJYsBDWcASwni29H3c4PWUNZbk4OcgPCY/s640/DSCF0375.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: black;">HOWEVER, Elgin also made some 24 hour watches as wrist watches. I acquired one several years ago for $8. EIGHT DOLLARS!!! The seller listed it as a 'calendar watch', presumably because he didn't realize it was a 24 hour watch.</span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"> </span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3Ynm8zrMAROc5pBLCIRiBH3C61-ex_uWyJYfjwvYOh2924YZdGMCFi7KvVzeaX9bZaNU7ssRz5CH1V88slnndNmhWlzzloPARLGmx7uF9IS962YFY_xfugZmXxDxusq3qzN-ELH8BO2w/s1600/729+case.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3Ynm8zrMAROc5pBLCIRiBH3C61-ex_uWyJYfjwvYOh2924YZdGMCFi7KvVzeaX9bZaNU7ssRz5CH1V88slnndNmhWlzzloPARLGmx7uF9IS962YFY_xfugZmXxDxusq3qzN-ELH8BO2w/s640/729+case.JPG" width="640" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1oWpSH_vqkB7kNTOfNBSH8Ev2Cjcfy5Kq15R0C_pIOUZ2fGubqdbD_g470_MOH221QA_1e7rWU6w1tOnNqfCoEANJy0UFhjshQt5s9memVs87C5TMboxddat22uCmnC3Mj2gI-Vs8Eow/s1600/729+mvt.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1oWpSH_vqkB7kNTOfNBSH8Ev2Cjcfy5Kq15R0C_pIOUZ2fGubqdbD_g470_MOH221QA_1e7rWU6w1tOnNqfCoEANJy0UFhjshQt5s9memVs87C5TMboxddat22uCmnC3Mj2gI-Vs8Eow/s640/729+mvt.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: black;">The movement, a 729, was introduced in the late 1950s as a 24 hour, sweep second, hacking movement. It shares pieces with the 730A B.W. Raymond Railroad wristwatch, and also with the 752, a 19j Sweep Second Durabalance movement.</span></div>
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<span style="color: black;">After posting about it on a forum, Cary Hurt contacted me, saying he had a NOS dial just like this one, if I wanted it. OF COURSE I wanted it!</span></div>
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<span style="color: black;">Today I COA'd the movement, and I wanted to share two features. </span></div>
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<span style="color: black;">First, the hacking. 'Hacking' means the balance stops when the stem is pulled out to set the hands. This allows the watch to be set to the second, like in war movies - "Let's synchronize watches, men!" In the case of the 13/0 hacking movements, there's a simple spring which would normally rub on the balance rim.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQKQe7xQrpF6xEtYyxrPcC8LOwPxjWrUhwPiNmGireWr-ElujbkGV1SQqtbJcXoqmUDHzjDmaTXjClewSLKy0NXkTFSKMmxhE52f-d7NMnVmI76t2AYdy0K7fFvKw7WKUQbb7fWSB7KEc/s1600/P5090119+(2).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQKQe7xQrpF6xEtYyxrPcC8LOwPxjWrUhwPiNmGireWr-ElujbkGV1SQqtbJcXoqmUDHzjDmaTXjClewSLKy0NXkTFSKMmxhE52f-d7NMnVmI76t2AYdy0K7fFvKw7WKUQbb7fWSB7KEc/s640/P5090119+(2).JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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See the purple spring, touching the balance rim? That's with the stem pulled. The pressure of the spring stops the balance while the time is set.<br />
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When the stem is pushed in to winding position, the tip of the stem pushes the spring, lifting it off the rim of the balance and allowing the watch to run.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEime7xQDvTsN0iSe3g0Hgydr_5h2tjquRgOjST03UzH_KSU2Kaav-Jd5lrlpPJ_zH3dmjxPf0BFxkL5czm8tA76eUwvRiy9nWj3a-YHfHpBCcv-vLMkulbpULwwoJwbCs17b2gtKhPN4hA/s1600/P5090120+%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEime7xQDvTsN0iSe3g0Hgydr_5h2tjquRgOjST03UzH_KSU2Kaav-Jd5lrlpPJ_zH3dmjxPf0BFxkL5czm8tA76eUwvRiy9nWj3a-YHfHpBCcv-vLMkulbpULwwoJwbCs17b2gtKhPN4hA/s640/P5090120+%25282%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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The spring goes OVER the 3rd wheel, which makes it a bit of a pain to reassemble!<br />
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<img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHFoE7ghWm291lRYmRjhvjqhF0AIaUzo2GGpY6HKn2X4vs1PmHS9YFEacVs-59XMXeXGIHloGszzwxRc6Zkv0LQM-_84C0kGamMGoEvulJTFivDda3VQX3RGxMsGectEdABhziK2CiKgY/s640/P5090123+%282%29.JPG" width="640" /><br />
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The second special function is the 24 hour gearing. In a standard watch, the Center Wheel post carries the Cannon Pinion, which fits friction-tight, allowing it to slip while setting the watch, but tight enough that the turning of the Center Wheel turns the dial train and hands.<br />
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The Cannon Pinion meshes with the Minute Wheel, which carries a small pinion. This pinion meshes with the Hour Wheel, which slips over the Cannon Pinion. The hour hand mounts on the extended tube of the Hour Wheel, and the minute hand on the tip of the Cannon Pinion.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifUH0FZi8I-XZIBwR32qdhdvJgAqOuvI1wn53CpWcYpYYTZzyvRYykhNWj1r2CvlsOuGslYWD85zVHadKXhzLsluf8jhXvbh9Q0U1BM4as1eJf2tBp61T-HEfSjE8-lS_xwAj6hZc8ga8/s1600/P5090135+(2).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifUH0FZi8I-XZIBwR32qdhdvJgAqOuvI1wn53CpWcYpYYTZzyvRYykhNWj1r2CvlsOuGslYWD85zVHadKXhzLsluf8jhXvbh9Q0U1BM4as1eJf2tBp61T-HEfSjE8-lS_xwAj6hZc8ga8/s640/P5090135+(2).JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrM8AGyuVXnG-3NjK_iw2wTRaDAMDLK0sjGiMdl9DVNNEYT1mDnjEftrQjn_w6KzvGX-PmYH3VLY3ievzjhXTGmBTJmzeQfBGB9q5j7UW5bbd4JC0wVxntfLvgtztX5payAgikFX_77cU/s1600/P5090141+(2).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrM8AGyuVXnG-3NjK_iw2wTRaDAMDLK0sjGiMdl9DVNNEYT1mDnjEftrQjn_w6KzvGX-PmYH3VLY3ievzjhXTGmBTJmzeQfBGB9q5j7UW5bbd4JC0wVxntfLvgtztX5payAgikFX_77cU/s640/P5090141+(2).JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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In order to get an hour hand that goes around once in 24 hours, rather than 12 hours, the gearing is changed, such that the hour hand turns at 1/2 the speed.<br />
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On the left you see the Minute Wheel (top) and Hour wheel of a 12 hour watch. On the right, the same pieces from a 24 hour watch. Notice the 24 hour Minute Wheel Pinion is smaller, and has smaller teeth than the 12 hour, while the Hour Wheel of the 24 hour watch is larger and has many more teeth than the 12 hour. This simple change is all that's needed to make a 12 hour watch into a 24 hour watch.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh90yQTwAJArc251EDuz_IzHdpKzNZvJFlZnqsXMXe4C0bou9QYg2Qhl-YE4U7U8ktWzR4dPf2tBQUKvf5tyJIV4ZbnqCAQDAi3YCB72ZrctJxsiyEtK5rSeay97cR_gh56MTMI4onAF5M/s1600/P5090113+%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="582" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh90yQTwAJArc251EDuz_IzHdpKzNZvJFlZnqsXMXe4C0bou9QYg2Qhl-YE4U7U8ktWzR4dPf2tBQUKvf5tyJIV4ZbnqCAQDAi3YCB72ZrctJxsiyEtK5rSeay97cR_gh56MTMI4onAF5M/s640/P5090113+%25282%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here are my two 24 hour Elgins. The one on the left, the faux-military Frankenwatch, whle the one on the right is a genuine, non-military 24 hour Elgin wrist watch.<br />
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<br />GeneJockeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17161884314264237342noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6738648204942530086.post-65485843540910022142013-05-12T08:57:00.000-07:002013-05-12T08:57:55.980-07:00Mothers Day Special - Mom's WatchAbout a decade ago, Mom gave me a couple of her old watches, in addition to the Waltham pocket watch her grandfather had carried. Hers were a pair of Elgin Marlenes, from the mid-50s, TINY things, and yet, of course, just as much watches as any of my others. Watching a ladies watch from that period run, tiny as it is, is fascinating. <br />
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My Mother passed away in 2011, at the age of 89. It was not unexpected, and indeed, she'd spent much of her last year telling us how much she'd enjoyed her life, all 6 of her children, her 10 grandchildren, and her 4 great-grandchildren, but most of all, the 68 years of marriage to Dad. <br /><br />One of the most important lessons she taught me, when I'd say that I didn't want to try something I'd never done before, was, "Nobody was born knowing how." With that in mind, I've learned all sorts of things by doing, including, now, watch tinkering. In 2012, for the anniversary of her passing, I decided to take on a challenge: to COA one of her itty-bitty watches. <br />
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The movement is an Elgin 702, from about 1956 or so. It's 20/0 size, 17
jewels, part of the 700 series introduced at the same time as the men's
711 series of 13/0 movements. But so SMALL!!!! The barrel is the
smaller than the crown on a pocket watch! Heck the whole movement is
smaller than an 18s balance wheel!<br />
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Just to take it down, I had to stone the edges of my smallest screwdriver to make it small enough to turn the set lever screw and remove the stem! <br />
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Having cleaned the parts in Zenith solutions, and dried them thoroughly,
I carefully pithed the pivots and pegged the jewels. The latter was
difficult because some of the pivots are at the bottom of wells in the
pillar plate. With much trepidation, I set about the reassembly.<br /><br />
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Okay, first the train. In order to put it all into a package that small, they put the 3rd and 4th wheel lower jewels on a different level from the rest, so you have to sneak the escape wheel in underneath the platform they sit on. Surprisingly it only took a little fiddling to get everything in place.<br /><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT40NDBldUwuw_GyhWWlmXpxXlWWav_CcHHPjk7C0TNTECIrGND_zRsCZCrZen8swfinn2XNG2XyUicG5p0LWQUB-QkRYn2LniNjSmw5qb-14DMtPpPcF_HeKgZJTKnk-5Odbd4cH6We0/s1600/P2250670.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a>Then the barrel bridge and accompanying bits.<br /><br /><br />
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<br />Next, the keyless works. <br /><br />
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The pallet took the usual fiddling to get back into place, but once in, with a few turns on the crown, it snaps back and forth with the lightest nudge of the banking pins. Time to put the balance back in!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJkTMR_FwMdZNRakM3MLyJJdkVxIObXpU-QVGaFF42viZQGVrKvPnPOUEafnXR2SoZ11gQTBEVnGLMIAO1-P-4l6-C3wbUROV4VrK9mQ1AZWDsPC2rBiD9xxm2ePDxO7UA7U4a54ssGsU/s1600/P2250672.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJkTMR_FwMdZNRakM3MLyJJdkVxIObXpU-QVGaFF42viZQGVrKvPnPOUEafnXR2SoZ11gQTBEVnGLMIAO1-P-4l6-C3wbUROV4VrK9mQ1AZWDsPC2rBiD9xxm2ePDxO7UA7U4a54ssGsU/s640/P2250672.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs7SS9nULslnSGXhG0yEuptHtkmApGSFu-HvN619OTWG8bdv-naUjjf242OGZE4ehNFk1uD0Vx8sItIr4MknVR1cuS2YxRgXCjz6jAvkieufYHTX1TANtxE2u3nhuLQ6a7gMImDMFlLXk/s1600/P2250673.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp3E9MtPa0q4O1Fn4OxjNQWIyXhFB7g9nzmtLWsORp47HRTtMpAL-rQLtTKGrpiDJUnO3_IWwicsdKPyrvkYOH6hXSV0E4IB0LIpw4Mdr4LuXAG1xI5ijm9tRLLwRG6QcZc6eSwqdNX8U/s1600/Peg+1941.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a>And off it took! Nice amplitude, too. Now to replace the dial and hands...<br /><br /><span id="goog_1800322897"></span><span id="goog_1800322898"></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs7SS9nULslnSGXhG0yEuptHtkmApGSFu-HvN619OTWG8bdv-naUjjf242OGZE4ehNFk1uD0Vx8sItIr4MknVR1cuS2YxRgXCjz6jAvkieufYHTX1TANtxE2u3nhuLQ6a7gMImDMFlLXk/s1600/P2250673.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs7SS9nULslnSGXhG0yEuptHtkmApGSFu-HvN619OTWG8bdv-naUjjf242OGZE4ehNFk1uD0Vx8sItIr4MknVR1cuS2YxRgXCjz6jAvkieufYHTX1TANtxE2u3nhuLQ6a7gMImDMFlLXk/s640/P2250673.JPG" width="640" /></a><br />And recase it. All done.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisrj8H6bQiEPqK3KcLIRrVZk8lJ7LyCAhGTapHLbGMwopPvGVn7DtMW0MwlEA1GneUFc7hI5DuJYH_l5LLOxrpi3g1KVyrYVbCy_uxSCzkN82dGUjoki-hz-TGHzg8fdqd3iVLG-FES4w/s1600/P2250674.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisrj8H6bQiEPqK3KcLIRrVZk8lJ7LyCAhGTapHLbGMwopPvGVn7DtMW0MwlEA1GneUFc7hI5DuJYH_l5LLOxrpi3g1KVyrYVbCy_uxSCzkN82dGUjoki-hz-TGHzg8fdqd3iVLG-FES4w/s640/P2250674.JPG" width="640" /></a><br />Love you, Mom.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp3E9MtPa0q4O1Fn4OxjNQWIyXhFB7g9nzmtLWsORp47HRTtMpAL-rQLtTKGrpiDJUnO3_IWwicsdKPyrvkYOH6hXSV0E4IB0LIpw4Mdr4LuXAG1xI5ijm9tRLLwRG6QcZc6eSwqdNX8U/s1600/Peg+1941.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp3E9MtPa0q4O1Fn4OxjNQWIyXhFB7g9nzmtLWsORp47HRTtMpAL-rQLtTKGrpiDJUnO3_IWwicsdKPyrvkYOH6hXSV0E4IB0LIpw4Mdr4LuXAG1xI5ijm9tRLLwRG6QcZc6eSwqdNX8U/s640/Peg+1941.jpg" width="458" /></a>GeneJockeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17161884314264237342noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6738648204942530086.post-36410417381362410252012-12-23T19:26:00.000-08:002013-01-03T07:42:51.590-08:00Technological Marvel, or Lemon?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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One complaint against the automatic watches of the 1950s was how thick they were. This is because they often took a movement with a stacked, concentric 4th wheel and then added the selfwinding works on top of that, resulting in a movement nearly twice as thick as standard manual-wind, subsidiary seconds movements. And of course, there needed to be room in the back for the rotor to spin freely. <br />
Compared to manual-wind watches, automatics of that era were just plain chunky. Here's an Elgin 607 Bumper next to an Elgin 687, one of the 8/0 series of manual wind movement. Note just how much thicker the 607 is.<br />
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Buren tried to address this with their Microrotor movements. These are found in Hamilton's Thin-o-matic series. Their approach involved putting the time train and the self-winding works on the same level. The winding is accomplished by a small rotor rather than a movement-sized rotor. You can see it on the left in this picture.<br />
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Some of these movement used an off-center center wheel for more space, which drives the minute hand indirectly. One complaint about these micro rotor movements is that the smaller rotor doesn't always fully wind the mainspring, especially when the watch is older or in need of service.<br />
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This is likely why current automatics use a full sized rotor. Of course in these days of big watches, the thickness of the movement is no longer an issue. Most watches dwarf the movements they contain!<br />
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Eight years after Elgin abandoned the 607/618 'Bumper' automatics, they introduced a new series of American-designed and -built selfwinding movements, the Durabalance Automatics.<br />
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In designing these, it seems as if Elgin started with a blank sheet of paper, and did not follow the conventions of other automatics. These movements were technologically advanced and cleverly designed, incorporating several advances.<br />
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First, the Durabalance, a mass-produced free-sprung balance with an ingenious method approach to regulating the rate. As I described <a href="http://gjselgins.blogspot.com/2012/08/durabalance-lord-elgins.html" target="_blank">in an earlier post</a>, in the Durabalance a pair of weights (d) hooked over the spiral balance arms (b) are connected via a flat leaf spring (c). Moving the spring causes the weights to move along the balance arms, increasing or decreasing moment of inertia and thus decreasing or increasing the rate.<br />
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Brilliant idea, but in practice the tolerances are loose enough that the poise of the balance is not always right because the weights don't move in exact coordination. Also, regulating the watch requires you to stop the balance and hold it while you move the spring one way or another.<br />
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Like the Buren microrotor, the 760/761 series put the selfwinding works on the same level as the time train, making the movement itself much thinner. Unlike the Buren, however, the 760/761 used a full-sized rotor. Whereas other automatics have a bidirectional clutch in the selfwinding works, the 760/761 put the clutch in the rotor hub. The clutch itself was unique, incorporating 6 round, flat jewels that transfer the motion of the rotor to the selfwinding works via gears A and B.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQJrnU-fJYjz6ykTDMMfh_wMymbtZXWFTOhU_ARfSIMx472_o6DurJ92YETjmOj9FCduaPxhb3byZ5GLNYkT6laBPMuNpEr9pSZnx36gFwgYYrVYJO6H7ch7Bp35VuOxLIHa4s-je1mAE/s1600/Gear+cross.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="286" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQJrnU-fJYjz6ykTDMMfh_wMymbtZXWFTOhU_ARfSIMx472_o6DurJ92YETjmOj9FCduaPxhb3byZ5GLNYkT6laBPMuNpEr9pSZnx36gFwgYYrVYJO6H7ch7Bp35VuOxLIHa4s-je1mAE/s640/Gear+cross.jpg" width="640" /></a> <br />
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The jewels themselves are housed in asymmetrical openings in Driving Gear A and Assembly B. Looking at A, when the rotor is spinning counterclockwise, each jewel is pushed to the narrow end of the slot, where it wedges in and transfers the motion of the rotor hub to the driving gear. When the rotor turns clockwise, the jewel is pushed to the larger end of the slot, where it spins, allowing the gear to freewheel. Assembly B is set up in the opposite direction, so that clockwise motion drives Assembly B and its associated gear while Gear A freewheels <br />
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Gears A and B can be seen in this picture<br />
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This also shows the clamp and clamp screw which fix the rotor to the rotor post. Gears A and B mesh with different parts of the autowind mechanism<br />
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R is the rotor post<br />
1 is the First Autowind Wheel<br />
2 is the Second Autowind Wheel<br />
3 is the Rotor Idler Pinion<br />
4 is the Click<br />
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Gear A meshes with Rotor Idler Pinion 3, which in turn meshes with First Autowind Wheel 1<br />
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Gear B meshes directly with First Autowind Wheel 1<br />
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First Autowind Wheel 1 drives Second Autowind Wheel 2.<br />
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We'll get to what Second Autowind Wheel 2 meshes with later.<br />
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The Click (4) works on First Autowind Wheel 1, rather than on the ratchet wheel. Where's the ratchet wheel, you may be asking. We'll also get to that later!<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Here's how it works.</b></span></div>
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When the rotor turns clockwise, Gear B is locked, so it turns as well.<br />
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It turns First Autowind Wheel 1, driving Second Autowind Wheel 2<br />
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The Rotor Idler Pinion spins clockwise, while Gear A of the rotor freewheels.<br />
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When the Rotor turns counterclockwise, Gear A is locked and turns with the rotor. <br />
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Gear A turns Rotor Idler Pinion 3 clockwise, which turns First Autowind Wheel 1 counterclockwise, driving Second Autowind Wheel 2.<br />
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Gear B freewheels.<br />
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So, how does this wind the mainspring? For that, we have to look at the dial side.<br />
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The Pinion of the Second Autowind Wheel drives the Ratchet Idler Wheel A, which in turn drives the Ratchet Wheel B. That's right - the ratchet wheel is on the DIAL SIDE!<br />
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This is to accomodate the winding and setting mechanism, which uses a rocker plate instead of clutch. With the Rocker Plate in winding mode, the Winding and Setting Wheel C turns the winding wheel D, turning the Ratchet Wheel B and winding the watch.<br />
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Remember how the Click works on the First Autowind Wheel? It's the only thing holding the ratchet wheel. The full force of the wound mainspring is on the Ratchet idler wheel, the Second Autowind Wheel, and the First Autowind Wheel. BTW, if all is working properly, hand winding the watch spins the rotor.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWsKGXssb2Tocsn2wIEAnlPOgBpIUyK2aofbF-1LGenOhhhkSLzdYIn05TanSSpN10jrodk0k7nURkSwJzOOiNAUtMTMGzzFKRZ58IfyaNEuxlR3N7CspV4Ol2Q6FR-M6LJGu5XQYF7kw/s1600/Setting+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="348" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWsKGXssb2Tocsn2wIEAnlPOgBpIUyK2aofbF-1LGenOhhhkSLzdYIn05TanSSpN10jrodk0k7nURkSwJzOOiNAUtMTMGzzFKRZ58IfyaNEuxlR3N7CspV4Ol2Q6FR-M6LJGu5XQYF7kw/s400/Setting+2.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
To set the time, pulling up the stem causes Setting Lever A to push the Rocker plate so that Setting Wheel B meshes with Hand Driver Wheel C. <br />
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The Hand Driver Wheel is frictioned onto the off-center Center Wheel, much like a Cannon Pinion in an ordinary watch. It drives the Minute Wheel, which in turn drives both the Hour Wheel and the Cannon Pinion, which simply slips down over a post in the center of the movement.<br />
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The Train, despite its off-center Center Wheel, is fairly standard.<br />
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Here you can see the Escape, Fourth, and Center Wheels. The Third Wheel is obscured by the Center Bridge Plate, which carries the Rotor Post as well as the Rotor Idler Pinion Post.<br />
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With the other wheels removed it's easier to see the Third Wheel. <br />
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With the Center Bridge Plate removed, you can see the Sweep Second Pinion, engaging the Third Wheel.<br />
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The sweep second hand is driven indirectly. Often sweep second hands driven this way will skip or jump. This is because wheel teeth are designed to be driven smoothly by pinion teeth, but not to drive pinion teeth, so the pinion moves in a jerky fashion.<br />
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To cure this, there is a bronze washer underneath the pinion gear, which pushes the pinion up so that the top of the pinion contacts the bottom of the Center Bridge Plate, providing just enough friction to keep the pinion teeth properly meshed with the Third Wheel teeth.<br />
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It's effective - of all my 760s and 761s, only one has had 'jerky' second hand motion. I suspect the washer is missing or needs to be bent to provide more tension.<br />
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So, with all this, how does the Durabalance automatic stack up, thickness-wise? Here it is compared to the 687 and 607 from way up above. As you can see, it's much thinner than the 607, and pretty close to the 687!<br />
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And there you have it - the Durabalance Automatic, one of the only automatic watch movements completely designed and built in America.<br />
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Now, about the 'Lemon' part. As innovative and unique as these are, there are several design flaws that plague them, and which anyone hoping to collect these needs to be aware of. I've bought at least 11 of these, either as watches or as movements. Only 4 were in running order when I got them, and I've managed to get 2 others working. Below are the broken parts from the other movements.<br />
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Going clockwise from the upper left:<br />
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A. Lower Center Wheel jewel popped out - it's the little 'Cherry Life Saver' by the arrow point.<br />
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B. Center Post popped out. To be fair, this movement looked like it had been run over by a tiny truck, right down to a tiny tire track across the dial.<br />
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C. Loose Rotor Hub. I've had three of these. If you look at the rim of the rotor, you can see where it rubbed on the plate.<br />
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D. Broken Minute Wheel Clamp. The little arm at the top broke off of the little piece at the bottom. According to more several professionals, this is a frequent problem.<br />
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E. Second Autowind Wheel. This piece is one of the two most frequent problems. Among these 4 wheels, 2 have broken lower pivots, 1 has missing teeth on the pinion, and 1 has a broken wheel. Remember that odd click arrangement? I suspect this is the weak link in that particular chain with all the force on that poor little pivot.<br />
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F. Missing Teeth on Winding Wheel on Rocker Plate. In my sample, this happens as often as 2nd Autowind Wheel issues. I wouldn't be surprised if there was a link between that and the 2nd Autowind Wheel weakness, and perhaps breaking one leads to breaking the other.<br />
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E. Loose Rotor Post. On these two Center Bridge Plates, one has a loose rotor post, and the other has had a repair attempted. <br />
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So many of these particular parts have failed that spares are very hard to come by.<br />
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The Durabalance Automatic, then, is a fantastically innovative movement, very different from other automatics, with a number of novel features, but with at least 3 Achilles Heels. Any collector is well advised to purchase only fully working examples, and perhaps a couple parts movements as well. And have it professionally serviced!<br />
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UPDATE: After Brian's comment, I wanted to add a note to collectors and potential collectors about hand winding these watches -<i><b> BE GENTLE!! </b></i><br />
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I believe that hand winding these watches is supposed to spin the rotor, which puts a lot of strain on the teeth of the rocker plate wheel (F), as well as on the 2nd Autowind wheel (E). This may be what causes their frequent failure. So, wind carefully, and don't wind much. Just start it and then depend on the autowinding.GeneJockeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17161884314264237342noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6738648204942530086.post-3137762495041573172012-10-21T17:15:00.003-07:002012-10-21T17:15:54.767-07:00A Whole 'Nother Size of ElginPrior to 1938, Elgin wrist watches simply had 'Elgin' on the dial. There was no way, short of knowing the models or peeking inside the back to know whether it was running a 7, 15, or 17 jewel movement.<br />
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In 1938, Elgin introduced the Lord Elgin series of wrist watches. These were a premium product, with 21 jewel movements, and cased in 14k gold filled or solid gold (and a few in platinum). As I've shown in previous entries, the finish on the movements was also of a higher grade. Elgin continued to sell the 7, 15, and 17 jewel watches as well, taking
no effort to distinguish them from each other. It wasn't even always
clear from the ads what the jewel count of the movement was. <br />
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(The Lord Elgin name had previously been used on some of Elgin's pocket watch movements, but only on the movement, not the dial. In their 12s 'Streamline' series of watches, for example, there were two different Lord Elgin movements, the 450 and the 451. These were 21 and 19 jewel movements, with gold trains and jewel settings. <br />
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This is a 19j 451. Note 'Lord Elgin' on the train bridge. <br />
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Prior to that, some of the first watches cased at the Elgin factory seem to have been the 'Lord Elgin' series, which were 14s, and thinner than others. I believe there were even earlier examples as well.<br />
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In 1941 (as near as I can figure it), Elgin introduced the 'Elgin DeLuxe' wrist watch line, and I believe they also stopped making 7 jewel watches (apart from those made for the Gov't.). They now had three levels of quality: Elgin, which denoted a 15j watch; Elgin DeLuxe, which denoted 17j; and Lord Elgin, denoting 21j watches. I'm in the midst of either collecting or cleaning the first series of Elgin/Elgin DeLuxe/Lord Elgin groups in the wrist watches, so I have no complete series to show...yet.<br />
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But! At the same time Elgin introduced the Elgin/Deluxe/Lord division, they also introduced a new line of 10s pocket watches. These contained newly designed movements, rather than reengineering old ones. These watches were smaller and thinner than 12s watches that had previously dominated the 'dress pocket watch' market. And Elgin made them in the same 3 levels as the wrist watches. Curiously, they did not carry this through to their 16s watches.<br />
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The movements were the 15j 546 in the 'Elgin' line, the 17j 542 in the 'Elgin DeLuxe' line, and the 21j 543 in the 'Lord Elgin' line.<br />
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Here's a 546 from 1941-42, in rose gold.<br />
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A 17j 542 Elgin DeLuxe, also from 1941-42 <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheWUfJPl86voB6GLqtiUeC_9g5ZDYnz4ksjYyeG6VI-kWGGs6RV0nf2eNTBJQgvXBTobUdr6ofLW7CWL9Yw_TUMCUBt7wLSv2BAUVPDo-cVcNjzwbsasKGxscL2jOFYRfXF4HTIu0OvMI/s1600/P2140650.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheWUfJPl86voB6GLqtiUeC_9g5ZDYnz4ksjYyeG6VI-kWGGs6RV0nf2eNTBJQgvXBTobUdr6ofLW7CWL9Yw_TUMCUBt7wLSv2BAUVPDo-cVcNjzwbsasKGxscL2jOFYRfXF4HTIu0OvMI/s640/P2140650.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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And here is a 21j Lord Elgin 543, from 1949. <br />
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The 543 may have continued production beyond 1955. I have seen two examples without serial numbers, and Elgin stopped putting in serial numbers after 1955 or so, when they reached 56,000,000 watches.<br />
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The difference in finish among the 3 movements is more apparent in this picture...<br />
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Here you can see that the 546 has a flat, brushed finish, whereas the 542 and 542 have a brighter satin finish. Each grade has its own distinctive finish on the ratchet wheel as well. And of course, the 21j 543 has a cap jewel on the escape wheel and pallet, and a micrometric regulator. Note the cutout in the case to the right of the balance cock for the adjusting nut.<br />
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There's another salient fact about this series of movements. They are not so much pocket watch movements in the vein of Elgin's long line of pocket watches. They have more in common with Elgin's wrist watch movements. If they look familiar to any of you who have ever worked on an Elgin 8/0, it's for a reason. Allowing for the different layout (open face for the 10s vs hunter for the 8/0) they're essentially the same, on a larger scale! <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrtPWqy1_k8rZJFJy5WZQ10mpnpP9dOFoQmAORSmPJWgJXb1MQVfbp2VCQoHVgDFlCTFdMtmloKiA0BBk_yBLTL57yFoTQrsY1s4U2VAa-acEN3Mly2RiWYnRsgKqGT42nyPlzfLNiVLk/s1600/RGF+554+mvt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrtPWqy1_k8rZJFJy5WZQ10mpnpP9dOFoQmAORSmPJWgJXb1MQVfbp2VCQoHVgDFlCTFdMtmloKiA0BBk_yBLTL57yFoTQrsY1s4U2VAa-acEN3Mly2RiWYnRsgKqGT42nyPlzfLNiVLk/s320/RGF+554+mvt.jpg" width="281" /></a></div>
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This is even more clear at the level of the parts. Not only are all the same parts there in both, they are all almost the same SHAPE! It's like the 10s PWs are just overgrown 8/0 wrist watches!<br />
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NOTE! I inadvertantly left out the clutch spring on the 8/0 (the smaller shepherd's crook-looking thing under the pillar plate), but trust me, it's the same thing in miniature.<br />
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These watches are a bargain these days, as are most 12s and smaller pocket watches. BUT, they fit the watch pocket in a pair of Levis perfectly, and they keep excellent time. And since they have all the same bits in the same places as an 8/0, they make excellent practice watches, to build your confidence before tackling a wrist watch. On the other hand, if you've been working on wrist watches, these are EASY! <br />
<br />GeneJockeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17161884314264237342noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6738648204942530086.post-52626538694676160422012-10-09T09:25:00.001-07:002012-10-09T09:25:31.132-07:00You may have been asking yourself, 'How come Doug hasn't posted any new things lately?'<br />
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Well, here's the answer - We've been preparing for a new addition to the family. No, not THAT kind! The furry kind.<br />
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The big boy on the left is Rango, (formerly Astareleventh St.), a retired racing Greyhound. We picked him up this weekend, so of course it's been a busy time getting ready. The dog on the right is Zeena, another retired racer who's been with us for 4 years now.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpmoSO2W5EwzS_lYmWTBmYFsp9nzCuHBp0LH241nHuXAef6ezLD5F9GitIqJ6uoR0xB4-Qai6thguanDeQTjTvckGi0ynsW9og0IAjgFcpev4VIanDVM7BrNZo7op_zFZ-lWIGUmJBR9Y/s1600/PA090020.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="486" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpmoSO2W5EwzS_lYmWTBmYFsp9nzCuHBp0LH241nHuXAef6ezLD5F9GitIqJ6uoR0xB4-Qai6thguanDeQTjTvckGi0ynsW9og0IAjgFcpev4VIanDVM7BrNZo7op_zFZ-lWIGUmJBR9Y/s640/PA090020.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
I'll get back to watches later this week, I promise!GeneJockeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17161884314264237342noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6738648204942530086.post-72085807656095185212012-09-20T21:57:00.000-07:002012-09-20T21:57:23.964-07:00Thoroughly Amateur RestaffingOne of the down sides of bottomfeeding - buying watches listed on Ebay as 'nonrunning' or 'ticks' or 'runs but stops' - is that while many of them just need cleaning, or a new mainspring, or a simple part swap, a fair number have broken balance staffs. I've been able to get by for a long time buy snapping up parts movements whenever I can get them for cheap. Many of these have good balances. <br />
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Still, my supplies of spare balances in good condition has been dwindling over time, and for some families of movements, I simply have none. At the same time, I've built up a backlog of balances that have good balance wheels, hairsprings, and roller tables, but have one or both pivots broken.<br />
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One thing that stopped me was my lack of a staking set. Staking sets are <i>de rigeur</i> for any kind of serious watch work beyond simply cleaning and oiling. And they generally go for a significant chunk of change. For a long time, this stopped me. Fortunately, Cary Hurt, a highly respected collector, came to my rescue, offering to swap me a staking set for my servicing a handful of his watches. It was an offer I couldn't refuse, but I think I got much the better part of that deal!!<br />
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I obtained New Old Stock (NOS) Elgin balance staffs for most of the watches I collect, and with the arrival of the staking set from Cary, and a K&D Balance Staff Remover, I was set. For my first restaffing, I decided to do an Elgin 555 given to me as a project by Scott Allison of Times of Plenty, a dealer in NOS vintage watch bands and bracelets. I had taken down and cleaned the rest of the movement some time ago, discovering right off the bat that the balance pivots were both gone...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAMoIQ0jVk-2e1cxTjd9X00DXMkAsHmNa9vJN3p4QW8A56mzuTYpZL62xIBK-WsTBqEaDGzqPL3LqJjtRJtt5-Jd52wvmVOaJ35nZhWloXkJ7OjylmnmEpov1KnMvz8zN5H7i3uN-JtLo/s1600/Intended+victim.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="520" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAMoIQ0jVk-2e1cxTjd9X00DXMkAsHmNa9vJN3p4QW8A56mzuTYpZL62xIBK-WsTBqEaDGzqPL3LqJjtRJtt5-Jd52wvmVOaJ35nZhWloXkJ7OjylmnmEpov1KnMvz8zN5H7i3uN-JtLo/s640/Intended+victim.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
What I had not noticed was that the roller jewel was also absent. So I found ANOTHER busted Elgin 554 series balance with a GOOD roller table. You can see the roller jewel, right where it should be....<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTxk-mWdpNhmildmIWvMN3xqZRBoJJG8yFE8Pn7SdO_r1YT-sSHftBbtYQmfkcz9ztsZpV6vzuWpSVQKYtmVOu8atkg7aosONdY5oXYcebhIuwJHGUJwMg2-qkGzrs-bsSCMM3tg9IBqY/s1600/Donor.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="576" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTxk-mWdpNhmildmIWvMN3xqZRBoJJG8yFE8Pn7SdO_r1YT-sSHftBbtYQmfkcz9ztsZpV6vzuWpSVQKYtmVOu8atkg7aosONdY5oXYcebhIuwJHGUJwMg2-qkGzrs-bsSCMM3tg9IBqY/s640/Donor.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Before removing the old staff, you first have to remove the hairspring and roller table. To remove the hairspring, I made myself a homemade collet tool. I took a heavy gauge sewing needle and stoned it down to a long, thin wedge with a flat tip, like a screwdriver. I chucked it up in my pinvise, to give me a handle to hold. The thin end of the wedge is inserted into the slot in the collet right up against the staff, and then turned while lifting, to lift the collet off. </div>
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This didn't work for this balance, for reasons I later discovered*. So, I ended up using another approach - I inserted the tool underneath the hairspring and gently pried up on the collet till it came off. This needs to be done VERY CAREFULLY! But then, everything in this procedure does, too.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK1lo8MKe-ixJ2ZnG7YqUzik03FoZvg9N98FqhRI8WHSDX5WW1MqZXJH5f2HVWyIAEx2-gm4LAXSG620QGlTMz1VJlasCqkmsFBlhzb8A_VnEZxCSZqOnnPijXWYhxb4mGwBMTlKo7NJ4/s1600/P6020879.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK1lo8MKe-ixJ2ZnG7YqUzik03FoZvg9N98FqhRI8WHSDX5WW1MqZXJH5f2HVWyIAEx2-gm4LAXSG620QGlTMz1VJlasCqkmsFBlhzb8A_VnEZxCSZqOnnPijXWYhxb4mGwBMTlKo7NJ4/s640/P6020879.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Once the hairspring is off and safely stowed, it's time to remove the roller. The staking set has a roller remove. This tool fits into the riveting plate of the staking set, then you place the fingers over the balance arms, and under the roller table, and tighten until it's held in place.</div>
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Then, you select a pivot punch that just fits the cone of the balance staff tip, use it to center the work, and lock the riveting table in place. </div>
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A few light taps will push the balance off the roller.</div>
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Next, find the smallest hole in the rivetting table that holds the hub without binding.</div>
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Use the centering punch to center the work, and lock the table in place. Now it's time to get your staff remover. This is a tool that fits in the space between the gooseneck and the rivetting table, and clamps the balance arms down, so they THEORETICALLY won't be deformed when the staff is knocked out**. </div>
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The large knurled part unscrews all the way up to the gooseneck, then the stem of the smaller knurled part is used to clamp the tool down. Before you do that, though, you need to push the stake down through the goosneck and the remover, to make sure it's all lined up perfectly. There's a window to check that the stake is run down all the way to the balance pivot.</div>
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With everything clamped in place, a single, sharp hammer blow should drive the staff out, shearing off the rivet and leaving the balance wheel THEORETICALLY unharmed.</div>
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Sometimes, theory and practice are the same! See the little ring? That's the rivet.</div>
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The old, busted staff is still useful! You use it to find flat nose and round nose hollow punches that will JUST fit over the collet side of the staff without binding.</div>
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Next you use it to find a hole in the rivetting table that will JUST hold the staff below the hub without binding. Use the center punch to center it, and lock the table in place. Insert your NEW staff in the balance wheel, making sure the rivet stands above the balance arms, and place it in the hole in the table.</div>
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Now, lower the round faced punch down to the work. At this point you may need to adjust the centering - I did!. Gently slide the punch down over the staff to the rivet. </div>
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Strike the punch with a series of blows, turning the punch a little after each blow. Using tweezers, and holding the punch down firmly so it doesn't turn, grasp the rim of the wheel and try to turn it. If it turns, you need to repeat, but striking harder, until the balance is held in place by the staff, indicating the rivet is has been rolled over and is holding the balance to the staff. </div>
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Once that's done, replace the round faced punch with the flat faced one, and flatten down the rivet.</div>
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Next, I tested the balance for how freely it would spin in the movement. With the pallet and train bridges removed, I installed the newly staffed balance, <i>sans</i> roller and hairspring, in the movement.</div>
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Using a brush or a blower, start the balance spinning...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihhodjbZX07u61iUhJC7GYRSRMFYe_cao46laCRBGpReloZWsX-V7WfqVlH-qvMAu8YHSuTfaEQLgv-GLQVyOSDPlgJO0PYbMr5TsNQ-SoZk7Q58ZxUc2u8un5aUgKgXXqjPynkiw4UFA/s1600/P6020894.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihhodjbZX07u61iUhJC7GYRSRMFYe_cao46laCRBGpReloZWsX-V7WfqVlH-qvMAu8YHSuTfaEQLgv-GLQVyOSDPlgJO0PYbMr5TsNQ-SoZk7Q58ZxUc2u8un5aUgKgXXqjPynkiw4UFA/s640/P6020894.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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It should spin freely for a LONG time, only very gradually slowing to a stop. Ideally, there should be no sound of rubbing or other interference. </div>
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Time to install the roller table! First, place the roller over the roller post. It should come most of , but not all the way down to the hub. Align the roller jewel perpendicular to the arms, place the lower pivot in the same hold you used for riveting. Now, put yourself in a position to see the gap between the roller table and the hub, and while watching this gap LIKE A HAWK!, gently drive the balance down onto the roller with VERY light blows, stopping as soon as the gap disappears.</div>
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Now to true the balance! I have an old K&D truing caliper, and I gently place the balance into the side which grasps the cones of the staff tips. Tighten down carefully until the balance is free to move, but doesn't spin freely. Adjust the indicator close to the rim of the balance, and as you slowly rotate the balance, observe whether the width of the gap changes.</div>
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In my case, one side was higher. I pushed down in that side slightly, since the Elgin Manual says not to push UP lest you pop your wheel off the staff. A few nudges, and the balance was trued in the flat. I also checked it in the round, but since it's a solid balance that was not an issue.</div>
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For the next part - poising - I used the other side of the calipers, the side with holes that hold the pivots***. The balance should spin freely, but stand still at any point you stop it. Mind did.</div>
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Next, the hairspring is installed. After placing the collet over the hairspring post, a punch is used to gently push the collet down to the hub.</div>
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Now the balance is restaffed, trued, and poised! Time to put the movement back together!!</div>
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And...</div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>IT'S ALIVE!!!!</b></span></span></span></div>
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* It turned out the collet was loose on the staff, which is why trying to spin it off didn't work. I discovered this when I tried to adjust the beat - how close the roller jewel is to perfect alignment with between the balance and the pallet pivots when at rest. </div>
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I found that the amplitude was changing as I watched, and when I tried to turn the collet, it moved too freely. I removed the hairspring, placed it on my bench block, and used a concave punch JUST larger than the collet. A few light hammer blows tightened it right back up.</div>
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** REAL watchmakers almost without exception are trained to use a lathe to cut the balance off the staff from the hub side. This is less likely to cause deformation of the balance arms, and is over all much gentler on the balance. Then again, a lathe makes staking set look cheap!</div>
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*** I am reliably informed that a truing caliper is pretty much useless for poising, and that one should use a poising tool. These are not expensive, and I now have one. Another alternative is to place the balance with the roller table in the movement (without the pallet and train bridge), turn it sideways, and see if the balance tries to roll to the same point, or if it will stand at whatever point you stop it.</div>
GeneJockeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17161884314264237342noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6738648204942530086.post-66465997254566501792012-09-08T18:01:00.000-07:002012-09-08T18:06:33.307-07:00Bumper Part 2 - the RebuildIn the previous post on the Elgin 607 Bumper movement, I had taken apart a movement that I'd bought on Ebay. It was sold as nonrunning, but was nice and complete. In the interim, I ran the parts through my new (well, new to me!) cleaning machine, dried them, polished the jewels and pivots with pegwood and pithwood, and inspected all the parts.<br />
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Since I have acquired five 607 mainsprings in the course of buying mainspring lots, I thought I'd pop in a new one. You can see the braking spring, a tiffer piece of spring that essentially grips the barrel wall, but allows the spring to slip to prevent overwinding.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip_k9Y4mD8nzUfVZSkRExyTYoZPwas5uGrsUsZ_hrIv7ouMwWt8WfOV4e_jASZBgJp_f0CljNtts-xn18XY4adIOPEBbHCSP486eeFiuFqRTt-xIw6IIvJNJGjspN7y58ecxO-422UOuA/s1600/P9081164.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="330" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip_k9Y4mD8nzUfVZSkRExyTYoZPwas5uGrsUsZ_hrIv7ouMwWt8WfOV4e_jASZBgJp_f0CljNtts-xn18XY4adIOPEBbHCSP486eeFiuFqRTt-xIw6IIvJNJGjspN7y58ecxO-422UOuA/s640/P9081164.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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This was kind of a pain, because you have to stop after winding most of the spring into the winder, then fold the braking spring under so it gets pulled into the winder, and unlike a spring with a barrel end hook or T-end, you want to wind the whole thing into the barrel.<br />
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Next, I reassembled the autowind module.<br />
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The trickiest part was remembering how this part went together. That lone screw holds the pawl spring at one end, and there's a groove in the winding sector that the spring fits into. The fingerprint on the bench block will give you some idea just how SMALL the parts are - the 3 screws holding the winding sector hub together are about the size of balance cap jewel screws. <br />
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Once that's put together, the ratchet pawl is added to the plate. (sorry about the focus)<br />
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Then the winding sector assembly is added.<br />
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Add the lower plate, and it's ready to go!<br />
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I won't show the assembly of the movement, which is really pretty straightforward, not to mention just like the disassembly only backwards. I was pleased to note that the balance took right off when installed. The next step is to add the bumpers. This is a fiddly step, since the bumper block doesn't have separate screws. The same screws that hold down the springs attach the bumper to the pillar plate. And of course, the springs try to turn as you tighten the screws down!<br />
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With the bumpers in place, you just add the autowind module and tighten two screws.<br />
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Note the little black mark on the ratchet wheel. I marked that so I could see if moving the winding weight worked to wind the watch. As you can see in this picture, where it's moved about 90 degrees, it does!!</div>
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Add the dial and hands, and we've got a newly cleaned Elgin 607 Bumper! A nice little piece of American Watchmaking history!<br />
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<br />GeneJockeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17161884314264237342noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6738648204942530086.post-45326288041268174852012-09-01T20:46:00.000-07:002012-09-01T20:46:06.520-07:00What $10 Will Get You - Putting It Back TogetherNow that the parts are all clean, we're ready to put the movement back together, lubricating along the way.<br />
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The Elgin Service Bulletin from 1950 suggests using Elgin M56b and vaseline. I use M56b - a bottle that's probably 50 years old - but I replaced the Vaseline with KT22. In addition, I use Nye Clock Oil for the mainspring, and Moebius 9145 for oiling the pallet stones.<br />
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First the mainspring. The old blue steel spring was completely worn out, so I replaced it witha NOS Durapower spring. Here's the spring, the barrel and arbor, and my K&D mainspring winder.<br />
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First, you attach the arbor hook of the mainspring to the winder's arbor. Then put the arbor into the winder.<br />
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Wind the spring into the winder leaving the barrel end out, then turn the arbor backwards to disengage it from the arbor, and pull it out. Carefully insert the barrel end so that the end engages the hook in the barrel and push the spring into the barrel.<br />
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Insert the arbor and turn it till the hook engages the spring, then put the barrel cap on, lining up the slot for the T-end.<br />
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Next, I install the cap jewels in the plate and the balance cock.<br />
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Next I oil the balance jewels. First put oil (M56b) in the cup, then push it through with the fine wire end of the oil inserter.<br />
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Next I put the barrel in the well in the pillar plate.<br />
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Now add the train, working backwards from the escape wheel.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhByOXxniC1Z135-O-dqPq97VsXJvA4cqPGibIK22Ht5W8v65rsZFylf2RweR42ZImFs9a_oelrtRSyIMURbjAV3EZVjruE-YsGc8jhnXnXp9v5cywwVJkEwQEQwN_dgI6TxhsRtKxuC14/s1600/P9011119.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhByOXxniC1Z135-O-dqPq97VsXJvA4cqPGibIK22Ht5W8v65rsZFylf2RweR42ZImFs9a_oelrtRSyIMURbjAV3EZVjruE-YsGc8jhnXnXp9v5cywwVJkEwQEQwN_dgI6TxhsRtKxuC14/s320/P9011119.JPG" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoy6blqv-qCBgyUF-u6uVQUqGtQuq0HZRiftxvZ2hDwWeUmO9AC6CZFNggDZ6mmn2KF39E355lCkOgfldaPLU-zFg3TUC76oXvFCbn-ZMc46zQyDu_k55tmIiwSUbKFaPIzTbfyO_1vwo/s1600/P9011121.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoy6blqv-qCBgyUF-u6uVQUqGtQuq0HZRiftxvZ2hDwWeUmO9AC6CZFNggDZ6mmn2KF39E355lCkOgfldaPLU-zFg3TUC76oXvFCbn-ZMc46zQyDu_k55tmIiwSUbKFaPIzTbfyO_1vwo/s320/P9011121.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Add the set lever screw and put on the barrel bridge, making sure the center and 3rd wheel pivots are in the bushings.<br />
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Next install the train bridge, making sure the 4th and escape wheel pivots go into the holes. When To make sure the pivots are in place before tightening the screws, give the center wheel a spin to see if the whole train spins freely.<br />
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<br />After lightly greasing where the crown wheel rubs on the barrel bridge, install the click spring, the click, the ratchet wheel, and the crown wheel and washer. Remember the crown wheel screw is threaded backwards - lefty-tighty/righty-loosey! Once this is done, you can turn the ratchet wheel a few clicks and watch the train. It should spin, then stop and spin backwards, coming smoothly to a stop, not stopping suddenly, nor turning slowly as if against drag.<br />
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This is a good time to lube the escape wheel teeth.<br />
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Next I add the keyless works. First, though, I oil all the lower pivots. The third wheel pivot is inaccessible after you install the minute wheel clamp, and also you can very lightly oil the center wheel post before installing the cannon pinion.<br />
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After the cannon pinion, I install the minute wheel, setting wheel, clutch spring, clutch and bevel pinion. <br />
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Once the clutch lever and minute wheel clamp are installed, you can insert the stem.<br />
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On the left it's in winding mode, on the right in setting mode. Note the position of the clutch.<br />
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Turh the movement over again, and install the pallet and pallet bridge. Make sure you can see the pivot in the bushing before tightening the screw.<br />
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At this point, I wound the mainspring up a bit, only to discover the ratchet wheel kept slipping. I found that the corners of the square on the barrel arbor that engages the ratchet wheel were worn off, as was the hole in the ratchet wheel I replaced both with parts from a spare 554. Here's the worn out barrel arbor on the bottom, compared with the good one from the 554 on top.<br />
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Back to the reassembly! First, install the balance in the balance cock.<br />
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Then lower the balance into place and when the balance is in place and oscillating, tighten down the screw. Wind it up and you've got a clean, running, lubricated watch movement!<br />
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<br />GeneJockeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17161884314264237342noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6738648204942530086.post-15163049715237894762012-09-01T19:05:00.000-07:002012-09-01T19:05:02.187-07:00What $10 Will Get You - The Cleaning!This week, I got an old L&R Master watch cleaning machine from Cary Hurt. <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2qIrjV72vQLohz-ANTk6YYvcMj8DOau5eRr0gW1qoaMH-7bWEKhJ7ZnS-fAqXHf9_gOf7qmhgcgkmfpnQcy4ySBdWRDbv45yuVSqgvw0Fyn0YGSmmVpBZC4Moxs5MRaBOn0NZCg7TNM8/s1600/P9011089.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2qIrjV72vQLohz-ANTk6YYvcMj8DOau5eRr0gW1qoaMH-7bWEKhJ7ZnS-fAqXHf9_gOf7qmhgcgkmfpnQcy4ySBdWRDbv45yuVSqgvw0Fyn0YGSmmVpBZC4Moxs5MRaBOn0NZCg7TNM8/s640/P9011089.JPG" width="480" /></a><br />
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This makes it SO MUCH EASIER!!! Up till now, I've been using mesh teaballs to swirl the parts around in pickle jars full of the cleaning solution.<br />
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Here's the disassembled watch, with the cleaning baskets, ready to start! <br />
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The pillar plate and bridges plus the bridge screws go into the bottom. Really small parts like jewels, jewel screws, and the clutch and click springs go into a fine mesh capsule that holds them securely.<br />
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The top has dimples to hold the different sections - balance, train, pallet (and regulator) and keyless works. Then the mesh lid goes on top of that.<br />
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The basket attaches to the holder on the impeller blades.<br />
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Then you move the motor head over to the first jar which contains the washing solution (Zenith, in this case) Lower the motor till it rests on the jar, and start the motor running at moderate speed. Every 30 seconds, I reversed the direction of the spin to break up the flow for better cleaning. Note the pilot light. While cleaning and rinsing, the drying heater is warming up.<br />
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After 3 minutes, you raise the motor to just above the level of the liquid. Spin the basket at 'a fairly high speed' to remove as much as possible of the solution before transferring the motor and basket to the next jar. As per L&R's instructions, and common practice, the second and third jars have rinse fluid - also Zenith. <br />
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Then the basket is lowered into the preheated drier chimney. The column has a stop to hold it at the right level, then the basket is spun at a low speed for 3 minutes.<br />
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Here are all the parts, clean and dry, ready for the next stage - inspection, and pithing and pegging! <br />
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Pithwood is like natural styrofoam, with a mildly abrasive action. It's used to clean pivots and pinions down to bare metal, by stabbing them into it.<br />
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Of course, the train wheels aren't the only parts with pivots.<br />
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It also cleans the roller jewel, if you gently push the balance into it.<br />
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Next, the pivot holes are all cleaned with sharpened pegwood. Some folks use toothpicks for this. The idea is to use the wood to polish the bearing surface, so you use a razor blade to sharpen the end to as fine a point as you can gently insert it into the pivot hole, and twirl. When you pull it out, you should have a pointy end. If not, you left it in the pivot and you have to do it all over to get it out. Once you think you're done, look through the hole with your highest power loupe to make sure.<br />
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Next the other end of the pegwood is sharpened to a chisel point to polish the flat surfaces of hole and cap jewels. It's JUST POSSIBLE to see the residue on the surface of this cap jewel<br />
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When you're done, the surface should glisten. That will keep the oil where it's put, and friction to a minimum. <br />
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Once you've pithed and pegged, and inspected every piece, you can start putting it back together. That's for the next post!GeneJockeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17161884314264237342noreply@blogger.com0